Hinge(Non-CA) Installation Questions
#1
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From: Wood River,
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I am replacing the stock CA hinges in my Kyosho Cap 232 with Great Planes( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK114&P=0 ) pinned hinges and I have few questions.
How to you prevent glue from getting into the hinge? I have done a few tests putting petroleum jelly into the hinge, but when I push the hinge in the slot a considerable amount of glue is "squished" out of the hole right onto the hinge. Even though the petroleum is in there, it still worries me.
Should I use CA(thick/thin?) or epoxy?
Any other tips would help
Regards,
Philip
How to you prevent glue from getting into the hinge? I have done a few tests putting petroleum jelly into the hinge, but when I push the hinge in the slot a considerable amount of glue is "squished" out of the hole right onto the hinge. Even though the petroleum is in there, it still worries me.
Should I use CA(thick/thin?) or epoxy?
Any other tips would help
Regards,
Philip
#2
It sounds like you are putting a lot of epoxy on the hinge and none in the hinge slot. Try to pack the epoxy into the hinge slot with a slender tool. Some have found that a plastic drinking straw filled with epoxy will fill the slot. Then put your petroleum jelly on the hinge pivot, slip the hinge into the slot and pull it out again to see if any epoxy got on the hinge. If so, put the hinge back and wait. If it didn't, smear a slight amount of epoxy on the hinge blade and repeat the exercise.
If it were me, I'd install the hinges to only one side, either the wing or the movable surface, and not both, at one time. This way you can get all the hinges right before you have to juggle an aileron or an elevator with lots of epoxy and get things lined up.
If it were me, I'd install the hinges to only one side, either the wing or the movable surface, and not both, at one time. This way you can get all the hinges right before you have to juggle an aileron or an elevator with lots of epoxy and get things lined up.
#3

Philip,
I "wipe" the petroleum jelly into the hinge from both sides.
with my finger.
I then clean the hinge in the area that will glued only, with
a good solvent (alcohol or lacquer thinner).
Leave the petroleum jelly on the joint.
Use at least 30 min. epoxy to give yourself plenty of time.
Install your hinges being careful not to contaminate your
cleaned areas.
After you have inserted your control surface use a small stick
1/16"X1/8"X3 or 4" to scoop the excess epoxy out of the joint
area (make sure you clean the top and bottom, right or left
sides.
I then wipe the hinge joint with a paper towel folding it to keep it clean, then finish up with a clean towel dampened with a little
solvent. Set it aside to harden.
Using this method I hav'nt had a problem.
Bob
I "wipe" the petroleum jelly into the hinge from both sides.
with my finger.
I then clean the hinge in the area that will glued only, with
a good solvent (alcohol or lacquer thinner).
Leave the petroleum jelly on the joint.
Use at least 30 min. epoxy to give yourself plenty of time.
Install your hinges being careful not to contaminate your
cleaned areas.
After you have inserted your control surface use a small stick
1/16"X1/8"X3 or 4" to scoop the excess epoxy out of the joint
area (make sure you clean the top and bottom, right or left
sides.
I then wipe the hinge joint with a paper towel folding it to keep it clean, then finish up with a clean towel dampened with a little
solvent. Set it aside to harden.
Using this method I hav'nt had a problem.
Bob
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From: Wood River,
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Wow, a lot of great tips guys!!! I was trying to think of a good way to insert glue into slot. The straw method sounds like it might be just the thing.
One more question. Should I try to recess half of the hinge JOINT in the wing, and the other half in the control surface(to minimize gap)? Or should I keep that between the surfaces? If I recess it, will it reduce maximum throw?
Regards,
Philip
One more question. Should I try to recess half of the hinge JOINT in the wing, and the other half in the control surface(to minimize gap)? Or should I keep that between the surfaces? If I recess it, will it reduce maximum throw?
Regards,
Philip
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From: San Diego, CA
You could also use a syringe (dental or vet) to squeeze the expoxy into the slot.
I would go for maximum throw v.s. hinge gap. You can seal the hinge gap after you're done. If you want to avoid large gap and still have the throw, bevel both control surfaces.
Good luck.
Mike
I would go for maximum throw v.s. hinge gap. You can seal the hinge gap after you're done. If you want to avoid large gap and still have the throw, bevel both control surfaces.
Good luck.
Mike
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From: Perham,
ME
I use Elmer's Carpenter glue for all hinges not the CA type just put some in the slot both sides a little on the hinge and insert. In 46 years of doing this I have never had a hinge come loose 1/2A to 1/3 scale wipes up with damp cloth and does not bind up hinge like epoxy
#9
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PHILIP, I've tried the jelly route, I've tried epoxy in a syringe, it's all nothing but a hassle. I used to hate hinging, now it's a breeze.
go get yourself a bottle of Pacer Hinge Glue. It has a nice extension that you can stick in the slot, then just squeeze the glue in. I also wipe a thin, thin , thin coat on the hinge. (just so its tacky) not so much that it backs up when you push the hinge in.
push the hinge into place and here is the beauty of the whole thing. It cleans up with water! move the hinge back and forth a few time and wipe it with a damp cloth.
Epozy was never ment for plastic.
YOu have much more working time, rock solid strength, no mess, and no syringes.
before I put the pin in my hinges, I always coat the pin ever so slightly with oil. If you already have the pins in, just put a tiny amount of thin oil on the hing, it will wick right in. then wipe the outside off
YOu don't need to use any vasaline, chapstic or anything else
JOhn
go get yourself a bottle of Pacer Hinge Glue. It has a nice extension that you can stick in the slot, then just squeeze the glue in. I also wipe a thin, thin , thin coat on the hinge. (just so its tacky) not so much that it backs up when you push the hinge in.
push the hinge into place and here is the beauty of the whole thing. It cleans up with water! move the hinge back and forth a few time and wipe it with a damp cloth.
Epozy was never ment for plastic.
YOu have much more working time, rock solid strength, no mess, and no syringes.
before I put the pin in my hinges, I always coat the pin ever so slightly with oil. If you already have the pins in, just put a tiny amount of thin oil on the hing, it will wick right in. then wipe the outside off
YOu don't need to use any vasaline, chapstic or anything else
JOhn
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From: Reading, PA
how i do it... after cutting the slot, push the hinge in dry and cut 1/8" deep around the hinge knuckle with a #11 blade, then pull the hinge out and cut away a little balsa to recess the hinge. I recess the hinge into both surfaces and keep the gap tight. For plastic, pinned hinges, sand both flanges a little and clean with methanol. Paint vaseline on the hinged area with a small paint brush. Glue the hinges into the control surface first, let that dry, then do the other side. Mix 30 min epoxy and use a small spatula to get some glue into the slots on the control surface and onto one half of the hinge also. This spatula looks like a dental tool, I got it at a hobby store. Push the hinges into their slots but not all the way, leave them out about 1/4". Use a small balsa stick dampened with methanol to wipe away the excess epoxy. Now push the hinges in the final 1/4". Use small pieces of paper towel dampened with methanol to clean up any left over epoxy but try to use a light touch on the hinge knuckle. Also, try not to flex the hinge back and forth too much while the glue is wet. Once the glue is dry, any glue on the hinged area will pop off when you flex it. Now paint a little more vaseline on the hinge knuckle and do the other side.
Peter
Peter
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From: Wood River,
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