Greetings Fellow Aviators,
This is my first ARF build {newbie} so I have a few questions of folks who have built these. I tried to include an online instruction manual but No Joy. I will be posting pix and questions as the build progresses.
P.3 of instruction manual: shows how to apply the aileron servo on the lower wing. Included is a pic of it. Q1: The hole where the servo tray goes is not big enough. Does the servo tray go on the outside of the wing or is it flush. If it's flush, I will have to bore out more of a hole. Also using Futaba 3004. The tray is not big enough for the servo. What suggestion would you have for this problem?
Mike
Memphis TN

looks like your servo is too big and not the hole too small but im a noob so i dunno
id say you needed a smaller servo

wait a min though... this thig is for aileron control right?.... you sure you got that hole in there correctly? looks to me it should be virtical and not horizontal as it is in this pic

(like it should be turned 45 degrees left or right)

Go to this site and have a look at the review it might help.

http://theworldmodels.com/para/produ...view/A009S.pdf

Good luck
Edward

jigeye,
I've dinked around with your picture a bit to more clearly show what I'm going to now try to put into words.

The servo goes into the hole with the output shaft aligned with the centerline. Your picture shows it "backwards", but I'm guessing you simply took the picture to show the relative sizes, not orientation. whatever.... The centerline goes exactly between the two aileron arms. It's fairly obvious that your servo is too large for the hole. I used a Hitec 225 "mighty mini" servo in my 40S. I used it because it fit the plywood, for one reason. It's also lighter than standard servos by a half ounce, for a better reason. And is as strong as almost all standards. It's only about $20 from Tower and works with almost any brand RX.

The plywood tray goes on the outside of the wing surface. It actually places the servo output arms in better alignment to the aileron arms. It's obvious that the one that comes with the ARF doesn't match up to a standard servo. It doesn't have to stay in one piece to work perfectly. I'd saw it into two pieces and glue the two pieces where they'll match up to that big servo, if you stick with that servo. (truth is, I'd use a Hitec225 really) You'll have to open up the wing a bit to take that big servo, but the ply will provide all the strength needed when it's glued over the new hole in the wing.

The servo can go spanwise or chordwise. It won't matter which way just so long as you align the output shaft to the centerline. I've drawn the centerline with a red dashed line.

I've also turned your servo around an placed it "right" over the hole (with the output shaft on centerline). I've also cloned the servo and placed a clone over to the right, oriented chordwise just to illustrate the chordwise lineup. There is no reason to prefer either spanwise or chordwise. Either will work good.

Here is how I'd cut the plywood tray you have. And how I'd glue it down over the enlarged hole. It would now fit the servo. Matter of fact, it could be placed to fit a Quarter Scale servo if you wanted to. It would be sufficiently strong that way.

However, since I've got maybe a ton and a half of model building wood and supplies, I'd simply make a new one-piece tray to fit the servo. But it's certainly not required to do it that way. (OK, maybe it's not a ton and a half, but it's certainly close to a ton.... and all contest grade!)

Got it on the aileron servo tray.
1. Bought a Hobbico CS 35 mini servo which was reccomended by someone. It fits perfectly in the plywood tray. I peeled back a little covering from around the rectangular servo tray hole in the wing so I can epoxy the plywood tray ON TOP OF the wing. I will then mount the servo into the plywood tray with the associated hardware/servo screws. It is aligned as per your instructions.

??? One thing that doesn't make sense is P.3/#3 Aileron Servo {Lower} of the instruction manual concerning the control arms {right side of p. 3}.
1. The little rings that go over the red control rods are the same size. How do I get them to fit?
2. I do not understand how the "straper" works in the illustration. It looks like you bend the control rod at a 90 degree angle and put it through the control horn but how does the "straper work?

http://www.theworldmodels.com/para/i...on/html/A009S/

This is quite a lot of plane for a newbie.

Are you sure you can fly it?
Have you actually flown a real glow powered trainer and soloed?

Even if you've soloed on a glow trainer--I wouldn't recommend this little bipe for a 2nd plane. Maybe a 3rd or 4th plane.

If you've never flown a plane before you won't last 5 seconds with this bipe. In that event, please take pictures before and after the crash and post them here.

Good luck.

Yeah I got the flying part down. Just dumb on the building. I have a 73 inch QQ Yak with a evolution 26cc gasser and a modified SIG Four Star 60 with clipped wings and a ST 90 up front. Both airplanes were built for me. Also flying a Swany Aviation Burrito for 3D stuff. I've been flying about one year but have flown a lot in that year.

Well thats reassuring. Glad your not a total newb to flying. Figureing out the building part isn't too bad once you do 3 or 4 of them. They all do little things different from one plane to the next---but once you assembled 3 or 4 ARFs--you've done them all.

This little bipe is fun to fly. I had one that I modified with one Hitec HS-81 in each wing panel for a total of 4 aileron servos. It had dual HS-225 elevator servos and a TH .75 engine. Hot Rod Bipe!!

Guess I gotta read this un too.