Do you prefer z bend?

Or you solder a metal coupler to screw onto a clevis?

Threaded end into a ball link?

Well its not each to find push rod link with both end threaded correctly to the length.

I'm thinking of getting a K&S Die to thread the 4-40 rod so I can get all the correct length.

Is this what you prefer?

This is for 45cc plane.

i like to use the 1.5 to 5" turn buckles if i can other wise i perfer to solder a clevis on 4-40 stock. seem most of the better kits supply you with the lenght that you need that way you can use that or throw it away to use what you perfer.

The threaded rod available from most sources has rolled threads, which means the O.D. of rod is too small to use a threading die.
Only choice is to use one threaded end, cut other end to correct length and solder on a threaded connector-then use the connector of choice-depending on size of plane. I have the threading dies but have not found a good source for correct diameter rod to thread 2-56 or 4-40.

http://www.bennettbuilt.com/

i get my 4-40 rods from here u can then use your tap and die set.

4-40 FULL DIA. S/STEEL RODS


4" $2.00
6" $2.25
8" $2.75
12" blank $2.25

I use fully threaded rod with DuBro safety connects for pushrod. Either that or carbon rods and same connectors. I like these since they lock together with a little slider, you just have to be careful not to lose the sliding lock.

I use these on the planes I build for work as well as my soon-to-be F-22 ARF from Hangar 9.

I like to use rod that is threaded on one end, then cut to length and solder a clevis on the other

Ditto!

I use Carbon fiber rod from TBM and the ends that go with them. They go together with JB Weld and have not had one fail yet. I have had a solider on end come loose.

Does the solder stay strong enough?

I certainly don't mind to solder direct rod to clevis but I have seen those coated/stainless steel clevis from GP that seems not to stick to solder well where as the Dubro/Sullivan brass/yellowish clevis seems much better.

I have use some threaded brass coupler where it soldered well onto steel rod. I then put on the clevis. This way I get both adjustable end. But this is for my smaller size plane so the stress is lesser.

Flipstart,

What you mean by that? Are you saying if i have an unthreaded 4-4o rod and when I die it with the K&S 4-40 die, it will ended up too small/loose fit into the metal 4-40 clevis?

Yes, the O.D. of the rod is too small to give you adequate thread depth. Also in my post, actually it is better to use one threaded end and solder a clevis on other end so only one end is adjustable. If you are using the swivel connectors, then cut rod to correct length, solder on a threaded connector and use swivel connector on each end.

Give me DuBro or Sullivan over that other brand... please.

I most likely Z bend the 4-40 on end and the other threaded on either HD Dubro Ball link or Dubro 4-40 HD Clevis with locker.

A Z bend will get sloppy in a hurry on a 3D plane. If this is a sport plane I have done it with great results. For something with large surfaces and a lot of deflection a Z bend is asking for flutter. IMHO

David