Kyosho 60-class Calmato
#26
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: abufletcher
I was advised to use a clamp on the fuel line when the engine wasn't running to prevent siphoning but didn't find it was really a problem.
I was advised to use a clamp on the fuel line when the engine wasn't running to prevent siphoning but didn't find it was really a problem.
Lot's of guys keep a hemostat in the kit in case they need it from the start of fueling up until the start of cranking. Needed it sometime before, don't necessarily need it now. Lots of times it's because they worked out a fueling technique that kept the flood from happening.
Let us know how it went.
It's one of the best times in the hobby ain't it, about to try out the latest.
#27
Thread Starter

Got her out to the field and fired the engine up. There was initially some pooling of fuel in the carb but then after a couple rotations of the prop that stopped. I don't really know why but I think rotating the prop someout restored the pressure differential to stop the siphoning. To to be on the cautious side though, I now use a hemostat (with some bits of fuel tubing over the metal ends) on the fuel line after fueling and remove it just before rotating the prop before starting.
The Saito started almost immediately with just a couple flips of the chicken stick. It fired up and I ran it rich and slow for about 10 minutes. Then let it cool (but it wasn't getting very hot anyway) and then ran it for another 10 minutes (at under 4000 rpms). Lots of gooey fuel/oil everywhere so that's good. Then for the third run I leaned it out just slightly (about half a turn) but still ran it under 4000. After about 40 minutes of low rpm runtime, I move it up to full throttle and got that end adjusted before throttling back down.
I'm still having some problems with the idle setting. I'd like the idle to run about 2800 rpm at a high trim setting. Once the engine is running consistently with both a good top end and idle without dying, I'll take it up for a spin.
The Saito started almost immediately with just a couple flips of the chicken stick. It fired up and I ran it rich and slow for about 10 minutes. Then let it cool (but it wasn't getting very hot anyway) and then ran it for another 10 minutes (at under 4000 rpms). Lots of gooey fuel/oil everywhere so that's good. Then for the third run I leaned it out just slightly (about half a turn) but still ran it under 4000. After about 40 minutes of low rpm runtime, I move it up to full throttle and got that end adjusted before throttling back down.
I'm still having some problems with the idle setting. I'd like the idle to run about 2800 rpm at a high trim setting. Once the engine is running consistently with both a good top end and idle without dying, I'll take it up for a spin.
#28
Thread Starter

I'm sorry to have to report that I had a complete and total radio failure moments after take-off on my Kyosho 60 Calmato. I did a radio check before the flight and all controls were working during the taxi and the take-off run. But when it was about 20 feet off the deck I suddenly realized I had no control whatsoever on any servo. The throttle was wide open and the model curved up and off to the right and buried itself in the tangerine grove behind the field.
The model itself was obviously a total write-off. [
] Though I think the engine and radio gear is OK.
For what it's worth, in those brief moments before I lost radio contact, it handled just the same as the smaller Kyosho and I was looking forward to an uneventful flight.
And yes this is more than a bit frustrating after spending weeks getting the engine tuned up just right.
*****
UPDATE: I just thought I'd let people know that I just did a test of the radio components at home using the same battery as I was using on the ill-fated flight (without recharging it for the test) and everything works fine. Well, now, I really don't know what to think. I was getting no response at all on any of the flight controls once I left the ground. [sm=71_71.gif]
The model itself was obviously a total write-off. [
] Though I think the engine and radio gear is OK. For what it's worth, in those brief moments before I lost radio contact, it handled just the same as the smaller Kyosho and I was looking forward to an uneventful flight.
And yes this is more than a bit frustrating after spending weeks getting the engine tuned up just right.
*****
UPDATE: I just thought I'd let people know that I just did a test of the radio components at home using the same battery as I was using on the ill-fated flight (without recharging it for the test) and everything works fine. Well, now, I really don't know what to think. I was getting no response at all on any of the flight controls once I left the ground. [sm=71_71.gif]
#29
I was waiting to hear about this model and I'm sorry to have
caught this thread at such a bad moment! I am truly sorry
for the loss of such a fine model. Looks just like my .40 and
it's been the model that has stuck with me through a couple
of unfortunate crashes with other models. She's truly a great bird
and built like a tank.
About the rods being stiff in the guides, I put a lite
coat of silicon shock oil I had laying around over
the rods and then exercised the rudder and elevator
vigorously before connecting to the servos. I think the
black coating on those rods is actually part of the
problem but, I could be wrong.
Again,sorry for your loss...there's no doubt in my mind
that it would have been twice as much fun as the .40 .
...Oh yeah, I believe I lightly sanded the rods first, then
applied the silicon. Rods move very freely.
caught this thread at such a bad moment! I am truly sorry
for the loss of such a fine model. Looks just like my .40 and
it's been the model that has stuck with me through a couple
of unfortunate crashes with other models. She's truly a great bird
and built like a tank.
About the rods being stiff in the guides, I put a lite
coat of silicon shock oil I had laying around over
the rods and then exercised the rudder and elevator
vigorously before connecting to the servos. I think the
black coating on those rods is actually part of the
problem but, I could be wrong.
Again,sorry for your loss...there's no doubt in my mind
that it would have been twice as much fun as the .40 .
...Oh yeah, I believe I lightly sanded the rods first, then
applied the silicon. Rods move very freely.
#30
Thread Starter

Well, I might be getting another as I really can't think of a better or cheaper platform to work out the kinks in my Saito 72. At least this time I should be able to put it together faster since I know what I have to change. Plus I have all the "spare parts" I'll need.
#31
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: CrawleyWest Sussex, UNITED KINGDOM
Thanks for the info guys,I got a calmato 60 from Mr S Claus,and hope to start it v soon,cant decide to use OS 61fx or Saito 80,spoilt for choice eh.Happy new year to all from England!!
#32
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Ekaterinburg, RUSSIA
Dear Sis,
I am planning to buy Calmato 60.
Please send me manual of this model on email: [email protected] if it possible.
Best regards
BOris (Russia)
I am planning to buy Calmato 60.
Please send me manual of this model on email: [email protected] if it possible.
Best regards
BOris (Russia)



