lippucci

Had the same problem with the CG Extra 330. Rough landing & the entire fuse was destroyed. They took it off the market. Seems the Revolver is not as bad & is beefable. Worked in Waukegan years ago. Belonged to the Sky Knights. Your club? Norm

cavandish

sounds like a good idear, especially as it does not involve taking the original plate out. limited vertical support unless you are looking at 3mm plus alloy, also won't you have to cut the cowl a little ?

jrod1019

wow!!!!! what a difference a c.g. change makes!!!! i moved the c.g. 1/2'' back from recomended and what a difference on landing!!! my revolver always came in hot, and wouldnt slow down, and hard to keep from bouncing. same prob. most people have. moved the c.g. back and i thougt i was flying a different plane! she slowed down, didnt have no tendancies to tip stall and didn't bounce. i greased every landing today and did not want to stop flying! the guys at the field called me the go around king when i flew her, but not today! i dont know if u guys are playing with your c.g. but try it if not. p. s. i still cant belive how she was landing![:-]

lippucci

Jrod..nice tip! Where do you fly in Fl.?

jrod1019

key west. boy was it hot today 91 and high humidity! not good for power!

freeair

i will use 3 mm aircraft grade aluminium as this is very light and also very strong, i only have to cut out the very end of the cowl just so the alloy plate fits in but if i use a pitts muffler no extra cutting to be done.

ckeene9

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Can you post up some pix of this set-up? I'm redesigning right now.

freeair

i will post some pics when i get this far. another question, what are you guys using for control hinges and what glue ?

ckeene9

My Feedback: (-1)

I used the standard dubro hinges and 20min. Epoxy, seems to be holding up with High-G manuevers at full throttle.

cavandish

my standard mylar jobs have now lasted sixty odd flights, when you fit ,do a dry run, then butter half the hinge with ca & slide in, do this with all, then locate the control surface on the very ends of the hinge, now butter the other half up & quickly slide the control surface onto it. If you want extra security use hinge tape all the way down the join/gap. I have done the same with my sundowner, this plane has recorded 140mph straight / level , I do not hold back in the diving department- the hinges have held up fine.

ckeene9

My Feedback: (-1)

I have looked at and thought about how Great Planes build their landing gear set-up and have figured out why most of their planes have these problems. The landing gear "plate" is as it says just a plate. This plate then doesn't have anyway to distribute the load throughout the airframe. So I believe I have come up with a way to fix this problem. Some 1/8ply, some .030" Poly Ply, and some aeropoxy and it should be better than new.

New 1/8" Ply Plate being aeropoxied in

cavandish

why only 1/8 ?

make it at least an inch, 1 1/2 is best & glue the four sides, all shown before in previous posts.

ckeene9

My Feedback: (-1)

I forgot to add that I added some more gussets below this, I also haven't distributed to load yet via the .030" Poly Ply.

Christopher

freeair

now if you look at this white coloured plate that is added and also notice there is no esc ply plate fitted, as mentioned what i am doing is i will fit the esc plate that will be also alot thicker to accomodate 2 blind nuts then epoxy this in well, so picture the undercarriage removed and a 3mm [ 1/8th ] alloy plate fitted with the 4 holes drilled to match the existing u/c holes then this alloy plate will continue forward with a bend to suit the same angle as the esc plate as this is where the 2 other bolts will fasten the alloy to the ply. materials needed ; 1 piece of cut to size aircraft grade 3mm aluminium and bent to fit plus 2 x 5/32nd inch bolts with blind nuts. this will be an easy and very strong fix.

cavandish

Hey Beaver coming out for a quick Fang tommorow lunch time ? light winds and blue sky forcast

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

At your work at 10.30 Cav?

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hey there Phil... I noticed you had problems with the Sullivan onboard glow system?? Thought I'd show you the one I absolutely swear by...

http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...w.html#ajo0201

Heaps smaller, more practical... you don't have to physically turn it on, and you don't gotta cut a whopping great hole in your airframe

I got mine from Just Engines site, and have to say their service is marvellous So good infact I had it in my hands after ordering it in only 5 days ( and New Zealand is a day ahead of the world! ).

My Revolver is still going faultlessly, such a great plane ( haha, no pun intended ) but will have to shelf it for a couple of weeks as I gotta pinch the RX from it to maiden my 96 inch Beaver...

Chow for now,
Paul

cavandish

that's a big beaver, whens she going up

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hopefully this Sunday Cav, going to be a big change from flying the Revolver but at least it'll slow way down with the big flaps and flaperons in action.

Going to have to burgle an RX to put back into the Rev... I suffering withdrawals already

Excuse being off topic but here it is... ( I designed my kitchen and the island for this plane

Chancho

Paul,

Thanks for the Glo driver tip....

It looks good. I haven't messed with the Sullivan driver since I had issues. It's sitting in box in the basement. The one in the link you posted sure looks a lot cleaner. It's from England, but if it's good I won't mind the freight. For now the Saito 125 runs pretty reliably with the exception of the low idle that is inherent to Saito with their tricked out cams. I wish I never put in the Sullivan driver on this plane because the patch I put over the gapping hole doesn't look the best.

I haven't been out flying for over a month with the weather and work and am hoping to get her back out soon enough. Last time I had a couple major glitches and never found anything conclusive. My confidence even after 76 flights on it is shaken. I want to think it was a Volt Watch that possibly shorted out because of the hot wire going to it had broken off and I left it plugged in for some dumb reason. Perhaps the vibration shorted them together causing my receiver to get knocked off line for a few seconds? I'm just not certain, but was very certain when the plane was spinning out of control for those few seconds. Using the Futaba 2.4 I thought all my days of glitch were over. "It's always something."

Thanks for the tip and it's good following the thread. If I ever make to the other side of the globe any time soon I'll have to get out flying with you and Cavandish!

Good Flying,
Phil

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Phil,

You guys would be more than welcome to come and stay when you get over. Bring your TX tho, I fly mode 1

More on the onboard glow.. I saved some coin by buying them without the batteries ( had a couple of good ones out of an old 1/10 buggy 7.2 pack ) which will also save you on shipping costs. Just Engines don't add VAT tax to overseas orders, saving more. Great crowd to deal with, as I've said.

The way it works is cool too. Having no on off switches, it only arms itself once you've turn on the RX AND then move your throttle stick ( TX already on ) from low throttle to high and back to low. Glows then operates for about the first third of stick movement. The only bit you see is the red LED light thru a small hole in fuse where ever you choose it to be.

This is all you see of the glowie... inconspicuous aye? Pilot is daughters idea

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Hey guys.. was just looking at the instructions for the before mentioned Onboard Glow System... and guess what? You can get them direct in the States, they're from C-Tronics Inc

FYI go here.. http://www.c-tronicsinc.com/Products.htm#Flight%20Glow

Phil, you could now happily mount your Saito inverted and not worry about flame-outs with one??

CFN, Paul

cavandish

It was such a lovely day ! no wind, sun shining on the back of my head.

I took off fast and low, took a big wide sweeping turn away from the pit area whilst starting to gain height, that was about it, the sticks were no longer working,she just sailed on, up & up & up continueing that big sweeping turn over our heads for about 10 circuits, before finally heading for the ground (full throttle). Anoying thing is, the radio now works perfectly ! although I did have to turn it back on(the fuse breaking would of pulled the switch to the full off position) I have done a post mortem, but just cannot find a problem, all I can think is that I did not slide the switch all the way over. Needless to say, the reciever, switch & battery pack will not be re used in one of my birds again !

RIP

If any one is comming to nz, please bring me another, I'll pay tower direct.

cavandish

second shot shows a close up of my landing gear "block"

freeair

very sorry to hear this bad news CAV. just let me say one thing, atleast this model was an ARF and not a kit that could of taken many months to construct. its only money. your problemed cause could have been the switch as i must say some of these units are abit too easy to turn on and off as i have just noticed with a couple of generic j.r. types where some are harder to switch and some are abit to easy which is a big worry. one other thing, do you check your battery pack before flight?