Were building the Lt-40 and are going to put an OS 40 fp on it. will this motor be big enough to handle wind and easy loops and rolls? Also I have read that the push rods will flex. Is this when its flying the drag on the control surfaces will cause the plastic tube to bend when the servos try and push them? I didn't look inside the plane that carefully but isn't the tubes glued to the bulk heads every 2 or 3 inches. Is this not sufficient? We demolished our Easy Flyer last weekend so this weekend were building this. Thanks for any input.

Scott

well im not sure about the pushrods and i dont even have a kadet but I have seen a bunch and they are good trainers that fly slow. If you want to do basic aerobatics like loops and rolls I would go with a 46 instead of a 40. The best .46 is an OS FX 46. If you dont want to spend much money get a .46 OS LA

Hi Scott, sorry to hear about your easy flyer, (it always hurts), as far as power goes, the fp will fly your kadet ok, it never hurts to have more, but one thing about being a little underpowered is it teaches you to manage your altitude and airspeed. Remember, the elevator controls airspeed and the throttle controls altitude and you should be fine. If your pushrods are braced every 2 or 3 inches that should be more than adequate. just make sure the run from the former to the servo is straight and short. Also where the pushrod exits fuse, make sure the run is straight as well. One thing you can do after your insallation is complete is to turn the system on and work the controls while you hold the control surface. If you see the pushrod bend, you need more bracing. Hope I helped a little. Sterling

Thanks for the test idea Sterling. That will ease and fears I have. We have the 40 FP from the Easy Flyer so we'll go with that first. I also have a Mds 46. It's go a crack in the carb mount but I think we can seal it and then run it through the passes and see if it is realiable enough.

Scott

Scott,
What kind of rod-in-tube pushrods are you using? The Great Planes ones with the little white 'things' you slide on the rods don't flex all that much. If you secure them at each end and two places in between you'll be golden. And as stated above, do try to keep them straight.
The MDS has a cracked carb mount? Where it fits into the case?
JB Weld it! It'll be good as new. I have an engine that I burried 10 inches in hard dry ground. Half of the carb mount on the case itself broke off. I oiled up the carb and paisted the JB in the cavity-after thoroughly cleaning it first. A little RTV Blue to ensure a good seal and its good as new.
Put an APC 10X6 on the .40 and an APC 11X6 on the .46.
BTW, the best .46 for the money and performance is NOT an O.S. FX. Thunder Tiger Pro .46 wins that race. Cheaper too!

Jeff

Scott,

The issue elevator and rudder pushrods on the LT-40 ARF are definitely sub-standard. The pre-installed outer rod is an odd diameter; IOW, a decent inner rod like a Sullivan Gold'n'Rod won't fit. I used a DuBro metal rod.

This takes a bit of work; you want some adjustment capability in there, so I soldered a Kwik-Link on one end and threaded the other for a helicopter ball link. Measure carefully, with the servo arm and the elevator at neutral, as the rod must be very close to the perfect length when you only have one end adjustable. Of course, there are any number of other ways to do it, but that was the quickest for me. I ended up using the kit-supplied rudder pushrod; it has been satisfactory. But I would surely replace the elevator rod. And unless you cut into the fuselage, you won't be able to add support to the outer tube, as was suggested. Besides, the inner rod is far too flexible, and will change length (and your model's trim) with temperature variations. The Dubro metal rod solves all of these problems in one shot.

This, and the wheels, are the only parts of this otherwise excellent model I didn't use. I built one a while back back for my grandson to learn on; we flew it yesterday, as a matter of fact. Of the dozen or so ARF trainers I have dealt with, this one is by far the best.

A 40 FP will fly it fine; but you won't have any reserve power. Mine wears an old OS 40 SF which has just enough power to do some mild aerobatics. When I get caught up on some other projects, I'm going to get a Saito 56 to put in it; love those four-strokes.

One last tip; find some #67 rubber bands. This model's wing has a wider chord than most of the other Asian "cookie-cutter" (meaning they all are basically the same airplane with a different covering scheme) trainers out there. The standard #64 band will crunch the leading and trailing edges of your wing, over time. #67s are slightly larger and fit perfectly. I was unable to find any locally, and ended up ordering some from SIG. No, they aren't cheap. But you've already got several hundred dollars invested here, and spending five more on suitable rubber bands just doesn't seem like much of a hardship to me. Others have disagreed with this in the past; whatever floats your boat.

You will like this airplane. It is honest and a great flyer.

Steve

Thanks again for all the tips. We assembles the push rods last night and I think they will be okay except for the rudder it binds real bad and won't quit go back to center after you let of the radio when you turn left. So I think well replace the rod. I think its the outer rod already mounted in the plane that has the problem, is it possible to remove the whole thing and install a new one, or can I do what Steve said and manufacture a smaller one out of metal that will fir in the existing tubing?

Scott

THat's what I had to do, my elevator push rod Flexed so badly on the first landing, almost couldn't flare enough to land.
Replaced both inner rods for the rudder and elevator with solid wire and they work great now.
Only other thing is you might want to put small triangle stock along the base of the vertical stab that's a weak spot.
Have a great time with a really neat airplane.

<<...small triangle stock along the base of the vertical stab...>>

Exactly so. I did this too, and forgot to mention it. That joint is very weak.

Steve