Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Try Coolpower multi 15% full synthetic, this is all I use and nothing else. I have tried many fuels and got rusted bearings...with coolpower i now wear out bearings of old age no rust and I get 9600 rpm with 12 x 8 3 blade MAS. Better fuel better results. Avoid using high nitro in those engines since it is costly and those are not exactly made for it.
Give it a try
Normand
the mind is like a computers, it glitches sometimes, thanks for the correction, but wait till you reach your 40's.
Normand
Oh, and about the 40's... hit 50 last year. All downhill from here!
Lots!!! It's a big slimy mess. However, a lot of the oil comes out of the breather tube from the crankase so exhaust deflectors might help a little. But you should invest in a lot of paper towels!!
Now that I read your question again, I still get quite a bit of oil on the gear but most of it is on the nacelle and wing. Keeps your gear nice and lubricated!
Dave
Thank's djstar. That about wrap's it up for me. Think I'll go with ziroli and gas. I really hate the oil. Especially with such nice plane's.
I got confused a bit witjh names! But the fuel issue is one that I have tried and finally understood the provenance of fuel ingredients is one that Morgan fuel (Coolpower) seems to have in control: Consistant color, performance, from batch to batch and I order 12 case (48 gal) per year fore myself and the rest of the skid for my buddys at the club. The highlight is an after run in the fuel, in fact the synthetic oil residue act as an after run and even tints inside the engine in green. Also the alcool, the nitro and the oil is refined at the same place ( as they say) and not outsourced to the lowest bidder. The quality is consistant. Nevertheless I noticed there is a difference and a remarquable increase in performance, lower temperature of operation, easy start and definitely less wear and absolutely no rust or oxidation.
So what I'm saying is the fuel is really better and will get you xtra rpm, I dont know how their shares behave on the stock market but the product is the best of all brands I tried out there. The web site is copied below, check out what they have and try it, let me know.
http://www.morganfuel.com/
Normand
I've done the rusted bearings thing enough times! Perhaps this is the solution. Do you do afterrun oil as well?
Dave
Greg
Also reading greg's last post and all those purchases, the B-25 on the sim is perfect and behave much like the TF B-25. So coming back on the subject of the previous post; After a reflecxion, what do you think makes a plane fly?
Normand
CASH $$$$ is what makes a plane fly, the more you put the more it flys!, aint that true!
Normand
So, I had real flight 3.5 years ago and had downloaded the mitchel of of the sharing pages. That particular model was equipped with gassers so it wasn't really a true representation of the actual Mitchel ARF. My question is at this point, does the one Great Planes designed for the sim act like the real thing? I think you answered that question. So getting used to the bird on the sim will be good. More importantly, I have to figure out a way to equip the sim model with a gyro and then have one engine go out unexpectedly so I can deal with that senario. I know you can add gyros, or at least you could on 3.5 if I remember right, but can you simulate a single engine failure on a twin? Does anyon know? Thanks, Greg
The B-25 on RF is close. What I notice is that the real thing (model) feels heavier in the air. You can't stand it on it's wingtip and rip it around turns without some bad things happening. RF seems to let you get away with that. Slow and gentle turns with a lot of patience on your end to just let a nice gentle turn happen.
If you fly fighters or other sport planes, you can whip them around pretty good without the bad things happening.
Also, takeoff rolls on RF seem to be pretty easy. You can get in the air pretty fast. If you're on grass, it takes awhile to build that speed.
Just my impressions... I'm sure others have thoughts. I have a 5 year old as well. Haven't broken him of the 'joy' of smashing a plane into the ground on the sim! [:@]
Dave
As for the youngster? Well, lets just say he enjoys crashing them on the sim too, but he really can fly the sim if he tries and I'm hoping the effort I am putting into this trainer for him is not without reward.
I'll see what I can do in RF 5.5 to add weight to the Mitchel. I know you can do allot with the aircraft editor, so I'll just see if I can add a little weight somehow to make it "heavier" in the air. As I recall, the model I downloaded off the share pages a few back was pretty heavy feeling. If you didn't touch down just so, the gear would shear right off! Anyway, thanks for the tips.
Greg & Dave,
Interesting comments on the sim - I got the RF expansion pack at Christmas so that I could start playing around with the Mitchell while I build her. I have been surprised at how much easier she is to fly than I was expecting and have suspected that the sim might not be as accurate a representation as I would like. My fear is that I might build false confidence as a result. I have also sunk over $3K into this aircraft so I will be being VERY careful as I get to know her.
If you do figure out how to modify the sim model to be more realistic then please do share. I've so far been afraid to try doing that for fear of really screwing things up.
By the way guys, you are the youngsters - I turn 55 next month!
Ron
Also for take off on grass, you normally have 3 pos sw on a radio, place the ist flap setting, (normally the neutral or middle position of the switch) on approximately 12-15 degree flap and 38-40 degree second position. The full flap setting will create lift and enough drag to have perfect scale landing. The first setting will create enough additional lift on t/o roll and very little drag to help reducing the weight of the plane on the roll . BTW the longer t/o roll is a spectacular advantage and makes attractive t/o and rest assure that she will lift 25-50 feet away from the end of the runway and lift slowly.
The simulator reproduce the behavior of the t/o very close to reality, good way to practice.
This model is very easy to fly but if you under estimate the settings it becomes a nightmare.
I cant wait to see the snow melt here and get back to the field!!!
Normand
Thanks for the tips - it's really great to get these while still building! Do either of you have any comment on nose steering sensitivity? I keep hearing that 'less is more' with this type of aircraft but the sim seems very forgiving.
Ron.
Anyway, I will keep all posted about what progress I might make on the sim experiment and will share the completed product if anyone wants it.
In RF 3.5 and higher, have you guy's tried playing with the aircraft editor to change the engines to include proprllers. The editor allows you to play with the CG by adding weight. I do believe there is a setting to allow RF to simulate inflight emergency's but I haven't play'd with the system in such a long time I don't quite remember; the good thing, I still have the program on my laptop and it wouldn't take much time to go back to school myself again?
I have been reading a lot of issues with fuels and for the most part there are various products on the RC market that are good/O.K./poor. Omega Fuels are good but used over time will cause your bearing to rust, castor oil doesn't protect like after run oil does if you don't or can't fly very often. Then there is the enviroment which the aircraft is stored in, is it in your garage, shed, trailor, or inside your home. Greg we live with high humidity here in Maryland and over prolonged periods of time humidity will cause rust to include wood to deteriorate. When you have a controlled enviroment one can protect an engine and planes for many year's, but since the vast majority of us store our planes in other area's (all mine in my garage) our planes and engines will rust and the wood will degrade over time. To protect my engines I changed from omega fuels to cool power fuels the reason cool power fuels use after run oils which do protect one's engine; then after the flying season is over all my engines get a good slug of after run oil for storage. On another note, Normand probably knows this, do not store your flight pack battery's in your plane over the winter if the planes is being exposed to prolonged cold. The reason, battery's loose their charge when left in prolonged cold even causing damage to your battery and the possability of a dead cell and loss of an aircraft in flight. Saw it happen at my field with a guys 33% 3D bird last spring. These are just my two cents worth.
Dave