Hanger 9 Super Stick Question
#1
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Sedro Woolley, WA
Hi all! Hey, I'm just finishing up a H9 Super Stick 40. I put the rudder, and elevator control surfaces on last night. And in looking at it this morning the elevator seems like it could, or should have more up travel to it. It stops on the rudder of course. Has any one else had this situation? Is it ok as-is, or should I shave some off the lower rudder? Or maybe cut a "V" into the elevator to allow more travel? Seems to me that would weaken the elevator thou. Any thoughts????
I going with a OS 50SX on her.
I going with a OS 50SX on her.
#2
Hi Ken,
I think that is an Ultra Stick you have pictured. I would take the moto tool and trim a bit off of the elevator and/or rudder to make sure things clear okay. Also check the book for recommended control throws and compare what you have to that.
I just picked up a new Ultra stick 40 yesterday. Let me know how you are doing on yours. Making any mods to it? What engine?
Email me at [email protected] Thanks a bunch~
Ernie
I think that is an Ultra Stick you have pictured. I would take the moto tool and trim a bit off of the elevator and/or rudder to make sure things clear okay. Also check the book for recommended control throws and compare what you have to that.
I just picked up a new Ultra stick 40 yesterday. Let me know how you are doing on yours. Making any mods to it? What engine?
Email me at [email protected] Thanks a bunch~
Ernie
#3
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Sedro Woolley, WA
Thx. Yes, that is a Ultra Stick I have pictured. I have a Ultra Stick 60 with a Saito 100 on her. Build last year. 
This is a Super Stick 40 I'm building now. I have an OS 50SX I'm going to install on it. I will check what the recomended travels are. And may trim some off. We'll see.
No, I'm not doing any big mods to it. At least not yet. I fuel proofed the firewall, and did a few beeds of glue here-and-there.

This is a Super Stick 40 I'm building now. I have an OS 50SX I'm going to install on it. I will check what the recomended travels are. And may trim some off. We'll see.
No, I'm not doing any big mods to it. At least not yet. I fuel proofed the firewall, and did a few beeds of glue here-and-there.
#4

My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: crown point,
IN
MY SUPER STICK WENT TOGETHER OK, BUT THE TANK SUPPLIED LEAKED BAD WHEN I TEST RAN IT. THANK GOD I DID FUEL PROOF THE TANK AREA AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. I PUT A K&B 61 IN IT AND HAD TO ADD SEVERAL OUNCES OF WEIGHT TO THE FRONT...S O i IMAGINE YOU WILL HAVE TO ALSO WITH A 50.....
#5
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Sedro Woolley, WA
Ya, I was wondering about that tank too. I think I'll seal it with something when putting it together. How's the travel on the elevater thou? Bet she goes good with that K&B on her. I think the OS 50SX will make her go good too. Thx...
#6
Ggale, are you talking Super Stick? The Ultra Sticks come out nose heavy, but I think the Super's come out tail heavy.
Ken, have you checked the balance yet with the OS 50? I am thinking of putting the battery in the fuselage to avoid adding lead to the tail. (Saito 72 in mine, probably weighs the same as the OS 50)
I will beef up the landing gear area and maybe use nylon bolts there too, as some have done.
Ernie
Ken, have you checked the balance yet with the OS 50? I am thinking of putting the battery in the fuselage to avoid adding lead to the tail. (Saito 72 in mine, probably weighs the same as the OS 50)
I will beef up the landing gear area and maybe use nylon bolts there too, as some have done.
Ernie
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (15)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clermont,
FL
Hi F2titan, I have a super stick 40 that was given to me by an older club member. I have recovered it in Monokote (much better now) and added some glue here and there for strength. I have not flown it yet, but I was wondering the same thing about the elevator travel. I plan on putting a Saito .72 up front.
The questions I have are:
1) Did you modify the elevator or rudder for more elevator travel?
2) What travel values are you using?
3) Did you put your CG 1/8 or 3/4 behind the spar?
4) If no mods were done, how is the elevator response while flying?
Anybody feel free to add your comments
Thanks,
DTB
The questions I have are:
1) Did you modify the elevator or rudder for more elevator travel?
2) What travel values are you using?
3) Did you put your CG 1/8 or 3/4 behind the spar?
4) If no mods were done, how is the elevator response while flying?
Anybody feel free to add your comments
Thanks,
DTB
ORIGINAL: f2titan
Hi all! Hey, I'm just finishing up a H9 Super Stick 40. I put the rudder, and elevator control surfaces on last night. And in looking at it this morning the elevator seems like it could, or should have more up travel to it. It stops on the rudder of course. Has any one else had this situation? Is it ok as-is, or should I shave some off the lower rudder? Or maybe cut a "V" into the elevator to allow more travel? Seems to me that would weaken the elevator thou. Any thoughts????
I going with a OS 50SX on her.
Hi all! Hey, I'm just finishing up a H9 Super Stick 40. I put the rudder, and elevator control surfaces on last night. And in looking at it this morning the elevator seems like it could, or should have more up travel to it. It stops on the rudder of course. Has any one else had this situation? Is it ok as-is, or should I shave some off the lower rudder? Or maybe cut a "V" into the elevator to allow more travel? Seems to me that would weaken the elevator thou. Any thoughts????
I going with a OS 50SX on her.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Collierville, TN
I did a Super Stick 40 not long ago. I did remove a little material to allow for more elevator travel. As a matter of fact, I flew it on high rate elevator all the time. I just wasn't comfortable with the throw on low rates.
My tank was junk and it "blew a leak" the first time I filled it up. Trashed it and got another. Just was not worth the trouble.
A tip for flying this plane: Don't hold in a lot of up elevator while taking off. Doing this will actually "HOLD" the plane down on the ground. Instead, at about 3/4 throttle while the plane is approachong rotation, give a little up elevator and she rises up nice and smooth instead of straight up.
Just my .02 worth
John
My tank was junk and it "blew a leak" the first time I filled it up. Trashed it and got another. Just was not worth the trouble.
A tip for flying this plane: Don't hold in a lot of up elevator while taking off. Doing this will actually "HOLD" the plane down on the ground. Instead, at about 3/4 throttle while the plane is approachong rotation, give a little up elevator and she rises up nice and smooth instead of straight up.
Just my .02 worth
John
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (15)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clermont,
FL
Thanks Scale Dreamer, did you remove rudder material or Elevator material. What travel numbers are you using (mm or inches)?
Thanks,
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: Scale Dreamer
I did a Super Stick 40 not long ago. I did remove a little material to allow for more elevator travel. As a matter of fact, I flew it on high rate elevator all the time. I just wasn't comfortable with the throw on low rates.
My tank was junk and it "blew a leak" the first time I filled it up. Trashed it and got another. Just was not worth the trouble.
A tip for flying this plane: Don't hold in a lot of up elevator while taking off. Doing this will actually "HOLD" the plane down on the ground. Instead, at about 3/4 throttle while the plane is approachong rotation, give a little up elevator and she rises up nice and smooth instead of straight up.
Just my .02 worth
John
I did a Super Stick 40 not long ago. I did remove a little material to allow for more elevator travel. As a matter of fact, I flew it on high rate elevator all the time. I just wasn't comfortable with the throw on low rates.
My tank was junk and it "blew a leak" the first time I filled it up. Trashed it and got another. Just was not worth the trouble.
A tip for flying this plane: Don't hold in a lot of up elevator while taking off. Doing this will actually "HOLD" the plane down on the ground. Instead, at about 3/4 throttle while the plane is approachong rotation, give a little up elevator and she rises up nice and smooth instead of straight up.
Just my .02 worth
John
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Collierville, TN
I removed rudder material.
Travel was per the instructions and was in inches on both low and high rates.
You could probably go more if you wanted too, but I don't think it would be necessary in the rear. Maybe on the ailerons if you wanted to get dizzy on watching it roll.....LOL
Travel was per the instructions and was in inches on both low and high rates.
You could probably go more if you wanted too, but I don't think it would be necessary in the rear. Maybe on the ailerons if you wanted to get dizzy on watching it roll.....LOL
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (15)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clermont,
FL
Thanks a lot, that is what I needed to now.
I may try to get dizzy with the aileron throw on high rate.
6 rolls per second minimum..
LOL...
Thanks,
I may try to get dizzy with the aileron throw on high rate.
6 rolls per second minimum..
LOL...
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: Scale Dreamer
I removed rudder material.
Travel was per the instructions and was in inches on both low and high rates.
You could probably go more if you wanted too, but I don't think it would be necessary in the rear. Maybe on the ailerons if you wanted to get dizzy on watching it roll.....LOL
I removed rudder material.
Travel was per the instructions and was in inches on both low and high rates.
You could probably go more if you wanted too, but I don't think it would be necessary in the rear. Maybe on the ailerons if you wanted to get dizzy on watching it roll.....LOL
#12

My Feedback: (41)
I just built the Ultra Stick 40 and have about 15 flights on it. It is an absolute blast to fly.
Ok, this is the problem that I had on mine: You know where the elevator beam that joins the two halves where it passes behind the fuse? Well it hits the tail wheel mount on either extreme of elevator throw. Here's what I did.
1) Carve a deeper slot on the back of the fuse to contain the plastic tail wheel pivot/mount. That way it doesn't hit the elevator. But it can't be too deep or it won't rotate the rudder on its axis of rotation.
2) Cut some of the plastic pivot off. It looks like a little flag. Cut off the end of the flag so it goes in deeper.
3) If it's to late, just carve some of the elevator away. But only in two little spots on either edge. Watch it as it moves and you'll see. Don't cut off any more than you have to.
I actually had to do both and now have 100% max throws. I'd be careful carving too much of the elevator though. I just made the minimum cut, very very shallow to clear the tail wheel pivot/mount. Play around with it until you're comfortable before you glue it in. Take your time. Don't forget the petroleum jelly on the pivot point before you glue it or epoxy might leak into it and freeze up your wheel pivot.
On a side note, I'm now running a 46FX with a APC 10-7 prop and it has plenty of thrust. Hovering is no problem. Yesterday I bought an APC 12.25 by 3.75 prop. I heard that it was a good prop for 3-D on this engine. I'll let you know. And another thing, this thing on max rates is very touchy. I have a switch on my radio and go back and forth and let me tell you, it's a handful on high rates (for me anyway). The rolls are incredible and the elevator sends the thing vertical on a dime (vertically down also..careful).
Joe
Ok, this is the problem that I had on mine: You know where the elevator beam that joins the two halves where it passes behind the fuse? Well it hits the tail wheel mount on either extreme of elevator throw. Here's what I did.
1) Carve a deeper slot on the back of the fuse to contain the plastic tail wheel pivot/mount. That way it doesn't hit the elevator. But it can't be too deep or it won't rotate the rudder on its axis of rotation.
2) Cut some of the plastic pivot off. It looks like a little flag. Cut off the end of the flag so it goes in deeper.
3) If it's to late, just carve some of the elevator away. But only in two little spots on either edge. Watch it as it moves and you'll see. Don't cut off any more than you have to.
I actually had to do both and now have 100% max throws. I'd be careful carving too much of the elevator though. I just made the minimum cut, very very shallow to clear the tail wheel pivot/mount. Play around with it until you're comfortable before you glue it in. Take your time. Don't forget the petroleum jelly on the pivot point before you glue it or epoxy might leak into it and freeze up your wheel pivot.
On a side note, I'm now running a 46FX with a APC 10-7 prop and it has plenty of thrust. Hovering is no problem. Yesterday I bought an APC 12.25 by 3.75 prop. I heard that it was a good prop for 3-D on this engine. I'll let you know. And another thing, this thing on max rates is very touchy. I have a switch on my radio and go back and forth and let me tell you, it's a handful on high rates (for me anyway). The rolls are incredible and the elevator sends the thing vertical on a dime (vertically down also..careful).
Joe
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (15)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clermont,
FL
Hey guys, what CG location did you all use. The manual states 1/8" behind the main spar, but I have seen that this is incorrect and the correct CG is 3/4" behind the main spar. Is it 1/8" or 3/4"?
Thanks,
Thanks,



