Nitroplanes Extra 500
#28
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Yes I will agree with that statement. Not sure what is going on with that company. Do they want to sell or just have people look at what they did have?
LOL
LOL
#29
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Alpharetta,
GA
Cowboysam9970, The plane is rated for a 60 2 stroke, OS 71 should be equal, suggest using a 2 blade prop initially.
The 3 blade on mine works great. Ironically it's the same prop I used on the Saito 82A and it flew great for two years.
I yanked the Saito to put it in a Han 9 Toledo Special, flying that also on a three blade. I believe the X 500 flies better than the Toledo! Toledo has a problem with knife edges but the X500, no problem. I have flaperons on both and the X500 is better at slow speeds.
The 3 blade on mine works great. Ironically it's the same prop I used on the Saito 82A and it flew great for two years.
I yanked the Saito to put it in a Han 9 Toledo Special, flying that also on a three blade. I believe the X 500 flies better than the Toledo! Toledo has a problem with knife edges but the X500, no problem. I have flaperons on both and the X500 is better at slow speeds.
#30
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Alpharetta,
GA
Cowboysam9970, The plane is rated for a 60 2 stroke, OS 71 should be equal, suggest using a 2 blade prop initially.
The 3 blade on mine works great. Ironically it's the same prop I used on the Saito 82A and it flew great for two years.
I yanked the Saito to put it in a Han 9 Toledo Special, flying that also on a three blade. I believe the X 500 flies better than the Toledo! Toledo has a problem with knife edges but the X500, no problem. I have flaperons on both and the X500 is better at slow speeds.
The 3 blade on mine works great. Ironically it's the same prop I used on the Saito 82A and it flew great for two years.
I yanked the Saito to put it in a Han 9 Toledo Special, flying that also on a three blade. I believe the X 500 flies better than the Toledo! Toledo has a problem with knife edges but the X500, no problem. I have flaperons on both and the X500 is better at slow speeds.
#31
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Florissant,
MO
The plane doesn't need much power once airborne, but if flown off grass I would suggest a 90 F/S to bring the tail into effect quickly due to rolling resistance. The .71 would be good for a paved strip. Electric is Awesome!
#33
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
OK gentleman, my extra 500 v2 arrived today. Very big box, and i have to unpack it yet. make sure all parts are contained. Been waiting for this.
Mike
Mike
#35
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Just wondering when you were back home. My extra 500 arrived Monday, it's the yellow plane. I'm amazed how big this plane is. When were you going to send me your set up and install of electric motor. Hope i'm not getting to demanding. LOL.. Ok I think I'll do some work on it today and waiting for Hobby King to get the 50-65 motors in stock. Rats I hate waiting. Hobby Lobby has some nice motors i might check theirs out.
Ok thats enough have a good day.
Mike
Ok thats enough have a good day.
Mike
#36
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Florissant,
MO
Mike. I'm back home but will have to pull pics off my old computer and get them uploaded. I used the 400kv version of the 5065. Bought Hobbykings universal motor mount (metal, black) and adjustable. More to come.
#37
Junior Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: WINNIPEG, MB, CANADA
Hi Mike
I am interested in the Extra 500, how was your plane shipped and what were the shipping charges. I hope it arrived safe and sound. Thanks
Carl
I am interested in the Extra 500, how was your plane shipped and what were the shipping charges. I hope it arrived safe and sound. Thanks
Carl
#38
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Florissant,
MO
Mike, sorry for the delay, but I often work 10-to 12 hrs not to mention home chores and projects
This plane will require some ingenuity to assemble and convert to electric.
# the "T" tail horiz may require sanding on the molded fiberglass in order to achieve squareness to the vertical. It must be epoxied in place to hold this squareness and to withstand occasional bumps when transporting.
#The cutouts for the main gear need to be enlarged slightly to prevent cracks if it loosens up. I added 2 wood screws with plywood rectangular washers through the fiberglass fuse into the MLG bulkhead to keep the two snug. Drill 2 tiny holes aft of the bkhd from the inside as measuring points to locate the screw holes.
#I had to make plywood washers using a hole saw to shim the wing to fuse on the fwd 2 wing bolts. I've heard that newer versions have a dowel pin in front. U still may need to shim.
#I bought a longer NLG and seperate axle to bring the nose up but the plane would flip over almost everytime I landed on grass due excess flexing. I added a bolt and nut through the coil spring of the NLG problem solved.
#I mounted the cowling first, then with the plane sitting on the gear no tires, I locked it in place so that it could not move fwd or aft, left nor right, but could be lifted out of this setup. Wood blocks glued to the table works fine.
#Then, I made a vertical wood jig out of scrap wood that would plug into the spinner / engine shaft hole of the cowl, it would stand on the table and plug into the noted hole and align with the molded right thrust surface of the cowl. I then glued blocks to the table to hold the position of the jig, but still allow it to be removed. This jig would also have a hole drilled on center of the plug to attach the motor or engine. You'll also want to set the spinner to cowl gap using this jig. Bedtime, more to come[X(]
#Remove the vertical wood jig from its locators, remove the the cowling, and bolt the motor and mount to this jig.
#Replace the jig back to its locators and note the gap to the firewall. Adjust the engine mount as close as possible but it'll probable be closer on one side than the other due to right thrust molded into the cowl at the spinner hole. I went with the right thrust and added washers between the mount and firewall on the side left (pilot) side.
# After deciding where the mount holes will be, drill them in steps and insert a clothes hanger wire through the holes to aid in installing the blind nuts. Use a slave bolt to draw them in tight.
#Temp install the motor, cowl and see how it all came out.
This plane will require some ingenuity to assemble and convert to electric. # the "T" tail horiz may require sanding on the molded fiberglass in order to achieve squareness to the vertical. It must be epoxied in place to hold this squareness and to withstand occasional bumps when transporting.
#The cutouts for the main gear need to be enlarged slightly to prevent cracks if it loosens up. I added 2 wood screws with plywood rectangular washers through the fiberglass fuse into the MLG bulkhead to keep the two snug. Drill 2 tiny holes aft of the bkhd from the inside as measuring points to locate the screw holes.
#I had to make plywood washers using a hole saw to shim the wing to fuse on the fwd 2 wing bolts. I've heard that newer versions have a dowel pin in front. U still may need to shim.
#I bought a longer NLG and seperate axle to bring the nose up but the plane would flip over almost everytime I landed on grass due excess flexing. I added a bolt and nut through the coil spring of the NLG problem solved.
#I mounted the cowling first, then with the plane sitting on the gear no tires, I locked it in place so that it could not move fwd or aft, left nor right, but could be lifted out of this setup. Wood blocks glued to the table works fine.
#Then, I made a vertical wood jig out of scrap wood that would plug into the spinner / engine shaft hole of the cowl, it would stand on the table and plug into the noted hole and align with the molded right thrust surface of the cowl. I then glued blocks to the table to hold the position of the jig, but still allow it to be removed. This jig would also have a hole drilled on center of the plug to attach the motor or engine. You'll also want to set the spinner to cowl gap using this jig. Bedtime, more to come[X(]
#Remove the vertical wood jig from its locators, remove the the cowling, and bolt the motor and mount to this jig.
#Replace the jig back to its locators and note the gap to the firewall. Adjust the engine mount as close as possible but it'll probable be closer on one side than the other due to right thrust molded into the cowl at the spinner hole. I went with the right thrust and added washers between the mount and firewall on the side left (pilot) side.
# After deciding where the mount holes will be, drill them in steps and insert a clothes hanger wire through the holes to aid in installing the blind nuts. Use a slave bolt to draw them in tight.
#Temp install the motor, cowl and see how it all came out.
#40
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Carl,
yes it arrived safe and sound, they actually wrapped the fusealodge in 2mm soft foam, the wings and horizontal stab were in a plastic sealed bag. Nothing was broken. I think there is a missing plastic motor mount, but i dont care because im installing an electric motor. I think shipping was 20.00 but I got the 20 percent discount for the holiday. I believe i only paid 87.00 total so I got a deal. the plane was packed in two boxes, the outer box was 5mm thick for shipping protection. I would difinitely buy one if you like this airplane.
Hope this is helpful.
Mike
yes it arrived safe and sound, they actually wrapped the fusealodge in 2mm soft foam, the wings and horizontal stab were in a plastic sealed bag. Nothing was broken. I think there is a missing plastic motor mount, but i dont care because im installing an electric motor. I think shipping was 20.00 but I got the 20 percent discount for the holiday. I believe i only paid 87.00 total so I got a deal. the plane was packed in two boxes, the outer box was 5mm thick for shipping protection. I would difinitely buy one if you like this airplane.
Hope this is helpful.
Mike
#42
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Florissant,
MO
Yes, thats it exactly. There are a lot of holes in it but I added several self tapping screws to make sure your setting don't shift under all that thrust!
#45
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Carl,
Not sure if anyone replyed, but i would say about 8 inches wide. my quess I didn't measure it. Are you going to order one?
Take care
Mike
Not sure if anyone replyed, but i would say about 8 inches wide. my quess I didn't measure it. Are you going to order one?
Take care
Mike
#47
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Carl,
I take some pics of my plane and post them. I'll start a build blog of each step. Give those a chance to see all what's involved with building the extra 500.
Later
Mike
I take some pics of my plane and post them. I'll start a build blog of each step. Give those a chance to see all what's involved with building the extra 500.
Later
Mike
#48
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: 0000 Greeville rd,
MI
Carl,
Here is what i have finished already. it's not much but it's a start. The nose wheel holder, I would make a paper template and tape it to the firewall, then drill the holes. I'm going to have to make a template for the motor mount also. I hope the photos get pasted. One other thing of intrest, i would use a millimeter ruler. much easer to measure.
Mike
Here is what i have finished already. it's not much but it's a start. The nose wheel holder, I would make a paper template and tape it to the firewall, then drill the holes. I'm going to have to make a template for the motor mount also. I hope the photos get pasted. One other thing of intrest, i would use a millimeter ruler. much easer to measure.
Mike



