I installed the H9 pull pull on my Cap 232 the way they recomended in the manual. I also installed the same setup in another plane I just finished, a GS300. Well I took my GS 300 with a new saito in to break in at the feild today, and while the engine was running at about 1/2 throttle the pull/pull cable snapped, completely from the surface end, and outside of the coupler. The solder held, the cable snapped. good it was on the ground.
I'm using pull/pull in a few planes, but I use the Dubro style,never having a problem. I will be converting both of these planes to the Dubro pull/pull, and anybody else that has this plane should do the same. That H9 single wire the way it is not very good. Dubro uses a braided cable, and the ends are not soldered, but wrapped, and crimped. Daz...

daz try berkley 30# test { nylon coated wire.} comes in 30ft. lenghts for only a few bucks also use there no. 3 sleeves for crimping. very simple and more than strong enough. daz 30# = 480 oz. i don't know about you but i haven't that kind power in my servos! try it you will like it.

the Sullivan pull-pull kit that has Kevlar cable in it. Very strong without any radio antenna interference.

Hard to believe any Giant scale manufacturer would make a product where you solder the cable. The stiffness of the solder causes a stress concentration spot on the cable very likely to fatigue - right at the end of the solder. Is that where this one broke??

One way to make pull-pull a little more failsafe is to loop it through the eyelet and crimp tube a second time - with a slightly looser loop the 2nd time. If the first loop breaks, the second one will be there. You would notice a difference in trim and precision, but would probably be able to land.

Mine broke too. I let my freind fly it and when he came into land he taxied through the pitts! Of course I yelled at him and he said it wouldn't turn. The cable had broken. Magically he didn't hit anyone or anything. I replaced it with a dubro system and haven't had anymore problems.
Rumble2, where are you getting that line and crimps from? Mail order, Local shop? Thanks!

kevlar cable supposivly some of the strongest stuff they make for pull-pull set ups.

I purchased some more of the Dubro pull/pull setups yesterday, I havent had any problems with these in the past. I may try the kevlar if I ever have any other problems. Its good to hear alot of you guys changed yours, as this could cause a disater. Daz...

the berkley nylon coated wire and crimps you can find at any dept. store fishing dept. it states on the wire package what size sleeves for correct crimping. the wire is stainless steel coated with nylon and very strong. if a hobby company marketed this stuff the only difference would be the price!

I have used the kevlar control line cable for pull/pull and works great. Make sure on the exits to use a short piece of nylon or equivelant tubing to keep it from fraying on the fuse. I use small eyelets on the clevis and tie it off in a double knot and a drop of thin C/A and it will not pull loose. Easy to replace a cable if it does give you a problem even at the field. The kevlar also eliminates any feedback problems to servo's like piano wire might. I encounter that one time on an all metal gear servo with a metal control arm. I used piano wire and keep getting a jitter in the servo till I replaced the pull/pull with kevlar.

I used nylon cord purchased from Boeing.. works great, no metal to fatigue.

I didn't even tried anything other then Dubro's set-up. This system was the first pull/pull I installed a few years back, and have had -0- problem with it, as well as every other DB set I've used, and it's only about 7$ to 8$ a set-up. I might want to check into the kevlar also though.
Another plus on kevlar other than it being the strongest available, is it's non-conductive, non-metallic. A bit of added insurance there it seems.