VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hi all,

A few questions on the Great Planes Big Stik 40: ( seen here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMM9&P=7 )

1. I will be using an OS .55 AX (pretty new)... Will the original (included w/ plane) engine mount be OK here? Any thoughts on whether to mount back towards F-wall ?
2. The OS .55 AX typically uses a 350cc (12 oz.) tank for 10-12 mins. of flight time... the Big Stik 40 comes with a 260cc (8.5 oz.) tank... will this be ridiculously small and result in a very short run time..
2a. Should I upgrade to a bigger tank (how big?) here or will that throw the off the original characteristics of the plane?
3. OS recommends any of 12 x 7/8 or a 13 x 6/7 prop's ... suggestions?
4. Are there ANY reasons to consider upgrades to the hardware? (control horns, etc.) Any help here would be great, even if answer is: stick w/ what came in box.
5. Any tips on build? Areas needing improved support, strengthening, etc.?


I know the Stik is a beloved plane and I am excited to get it together and up in the air, but I just want to make sure I put my best into putting her together with more forethought than I did on my first plane, a CG Skylane 62 ARF, which I love. The Skylane was my first build in over 20 years and now having built and flown, I realize how much I could have improved the plane with changes to both the build, techniques, hardware, etc.

I am ready for a more advanced plane and believe the Stik is my best choice (as do my club mates). As you can see by my trainer (Skylane 62), I do like the older designs and enjoy building and flying them as they have proven to be top-notch designs and are hard to beat for stability, flight characteristics and FUN !

I thank you very much for your help and information.

Thanks,

Don

dignlivn

Hey Don,


I used the original engine mount on mine. I followed
the manual on distance from the firewall for engines thrust
bearing etc.

I too replaced the 8oz. tank with a Sullivan flex 12oz. tank.
I took some patience but was worth it. I went with the tail
dragger set up and beefed up the H. stab and V. stab. I'm
using an extra servo to control the tail wheel.

Like you, this is my 2nd plane after my trainer. I'm running
a Saito 82 and Futaba 2.4 Hope this helps,

Enjoy

Bob

carrellh

The hardware that comes with Great Planes ARFs is plenty good, including the engine mount.

I've seen people turn the mount 90 degrees so the engine is sideways and the exhaust blows under the plane rather than on the wing. This does mean running a new throttle pushrod tube but it's not hard to do.

I had (recently crashed) a Big Stik 60 and it came with a small tank. I had to dremel some formers to get a 12 ounce tank in. Again, not hard but it was time consuming.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hey dignlivn,

Thank you very much for your input.. very helpful... I am curious, however, which of the following two tanks did you go with?

a. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU72&P=7

or

b. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU64&P=7


I am ordering plane and parts tomorrow morning so if you can get me that info, I would greatly appreciate.

Any other changes/improvements you suggest? Do you think my OS .55 AX will be plenty of power for this baby, or will if restrict some type of aerobatics? If so, which ones may be effected?


Thanks again for your time, knowledge and help...It is greatly appreciated. I am starting the build as soon as she comes in, so whatever you can relate to me as far as pointers, tips, techniques, etc... will be appreciated greatly. I am planning on staying with the tricycle LG setup, but will be swapping out the front gear for a Fulks (Dual Strut) which are much better quality.

Peace.

Best Regards,

Don

dignlivn

Don


I used "B" , the rectangle, and as Carrell said you will have to shave a bit
of Former inside. I used a half of a Hack saw blade to get at it. Then
I put 1/2 foam around the tank, once it was installed.

Bob

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I've got a couple of OS .55AXs-fantastic engines. I also have seveeral Sticks. I recently gave away my Big Stick 40 since I used it the test and break in engines. 16 engines were flown on it, including 4-strokes. I side mounted my engines and installed 2 outer sleeves for a cable pushrod, one for 2-stroke and the other for 4-stroke.

I found the plane is nose heavy, so I mounted the rudder servo on top in the back, as well as adding 2-56 tail braces. The anhedral wing you may not want to do. It helps in knife edge and point rolls.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hi all !

Well I received the Stik 40 today and looking at it I found some interesting appointments. Where everyone has been guiding me to put triangular wood stock along both the inside of the firewall and along the bottom inside where the main gear attach, I found that they came already installed !?? Has anyone recently received a Stik 40 and found that GP has fixed these weak, error-prone areas? Should I accept these mods/additions by GP as the final fix or should I put even more strength behind the firewall (as they did not apply triangular wood stock to all sides), as well as same with area over main gear ( 2 of 4 walls have triangular wood stcok, )?

Also, Ed Moorman, THANK YOU SO MUCH, as they say, a picture is worth... They really helped me visualize some of the additions/mods I want to do, as well as show me things I did not plan, such as the stab-to-rudder wire supports (2-56 tail braces) you have added which both look great and I am sure help the structure when under stress. Thanks ! Great stuff. I also am planning on putting the engine on sideways, as you have done/shown, and didn't even consider how I would I support the throttle cable, which you have so aptly described and shown.... Really, thanks a bunch ! And yes, the anhedral wing will not go with my level of experience too well, lol.. but it is a nice touch and I am sure wrings out more performance in the areas you mention (knife and point rolls).

Again, thanks for the info and pics.. any other recommendations from anyone, please feel free to enter them here, as I start my build tonight and will be on it until completion, which I hope will be in 3 or 4 weeks, given my time schedule. Problem then will be the weather and possible snow to contend with, but hey, that's what living in Boston area is all about...lol...

Take care all, and again thank you for your ideas/tips and help. Much appreciated.

Regards,

Don

carrellh

My Big Stik was the 60 size and it had triangle stock in the same locations you described. I did not add more. I did mix up some 30 minute epoxy and tried to "paint" the inside of the fuel tank compartment to protect it in case of a fuel leak. I poured the epoxy in and used my heat gun to thin it. I just let it blow into the opening under the wing for a minute or so and the epoxy was as thin as water. I tilted the fuselge in several directions and used an epoxy brush (extended with a chopstick) to spread it around. I did this after I modified the formers for the larger fuel tank.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Carrellh !

Thanks for your suggestions. I did same on my last plane, CG Skylane 62 ARF, but instead of using full strength epoxy mix, I thinned w/ denatured alcohol, and it worked super... I actually started w/ the full strength epoxy/heat gun method and found it was stiill just too thick and most likely too heavy... one of my club-mates suggested his method of thinning and I have not looked back. I do, however, plan on using the epoxy mix to fuelproof the tank area, and maybe a few spots in the critical areas I mentioned above (firewall & rear landing gear areas).

Does anyone have any opinions on the GP Big Stick 40, as we have been discussing here, versus the Hanger 9 UntraStik?? I just found the Hanger 9 and feel I may have been too quick with the gun on buying the Great Planes version, one reason being the quad-flaps, which I love flaps, even though I know on the GP Big Stik, I can use my Futaba 10C programming to create flaperons. Just wondering if anyone has any feelings, experiences with both and how do they compare against each other in the air.

Also, any programming help with this plane would be great, mixes, etc. that you found useful and would recommend.

Thanks for your help !

Don

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I thinned epoxy once or twice with isopropyl alcohol and didn't like the creamy looks and rubbery cured end product. Have been using a heat gun for epoxy or painting the inside of the fuel tank area (fuel proofing) with water based polyurethane. Haven't looked back since the water based poly. Cheap, easy to clean off of me and the tools. No downside. 8>)

To each his own, I suppose.

When you fellows put the fuel tank inside of the model, get a drum sander for your moto tool and grind away those formers so that they cannot touch the sides of your fuel tank. You are asking for fuel foaming if you do not, or a wear hole in the fuel tank at the least. Place uncompressed (mostly) rubber or plastic foam around the fuel tank. Do not let any solid portion of the fuel tank (including the metal fuel tubes and tank plug) touch the firewall or any other solid part of the model.

The OS .55AX with a huge prop as recommended in the manual should be fairly easy on fuel. You might be surprised just how long an 8 oz. tank will last if you do not fly the model at full throttle for the entire flight.

Put a normal 11x6 to 11x7 prop on the engine and the performance will jump up an incredible level, but so will fuel consumption. In that case, a 10 or 12 oz. fuel tank is justified.

My GP Big Stik 40 is on the assembly bench as we speak. It's been awaiting the arrival of an Edson Universal Adjustable Engine Mount from the folks at MECOA. The package arrived today. Now on to mount the engine in sidewinder fashion (as Ed Moorman mounted his) and see to the other details. Mine will be a break-in/radio test bed model also.


Ed Cregger


*Argh! I misspelled Ed's last name. I'll never get it memorized. Sorry, Ed. But I did correct it.

carrellh

My brother had a Big Stik 40, with a TT46 pro, for years and loved it. After it died (clevis broke on elevator) he got the Ultra Stick 40 because of the quad flaps, crow, etc. He never learned to like the Ultra Stick. He always thought it flew like a brick. He sold it to one of our club members who installed a 55AX, and the new owner loves it.

I did not have any mixing set up on my Big Stik. "Flaperon" was enabled because it had to be to run ailerons on channels 1 & 6, but "flap trim" was not enabled.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Ed, First and foremost, gotta love that avatar you have there, great looking frog !

Also, great idea on water-based Poly- Ure for fuelproofing... I might just try that with this Stik build ! As an fyi, when I used the denatured alcohol, I did not experience any of the clouding, soft feel type issues you mention that happened when you diluted epoxy w/ regular rubbing (Iso) alcohol.... Maybe someone here (chem. eng.) could give us some inputs as to whether it does matter, and why. I would be interested in knowing.

Also, thank you for the suggestions on props, that is a big help as I never know what to start with since I am a relative newcomer to the hobby and have basically started with smaller props since I wanted to go easy on my new engine...

Also.. carrelh, thx again for your experiences, esp. with the Hanger 9 flap version of the Stik... it is interesting to note that the other person liked the Ultra w/ a different engine (Is the 55AX larger/more powerful) than the original owners engine, the TT46Pro? Do you think that was the reason for liking it ?

I am still wondering what to do with the Great Planes Big Stik 40 versus the Hanger 9 Ultra Stik... so anyone who has some more experiences, I would greatly appreciate your inputs.


Thanks.

Don

carrellh

The 55AX is definitely stronger than the 46Pro, and weighs about the same, and I think that's why the new owner likes the plane so much better than my brother did.

On a plane like a Stick, flaps are just something to play with. They are not needed for takeoff or landing. Also, losing part of the aileron length reduces the roll rate. If your transmitter can program the flaps and ailerons to work together you can get the roll rate back.

dignlivn

I am still wondering what to do with the Great Planes Big Stik 40 versus the Hanger 9 Ultra Stik... so anyone who has some more experiences, I would greatly appreciate your inputs.


Thanks.

Don
[/quote]



May be this will help Don,

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Damn Dignlvn, that is one AWESOME lookin' plane.. truly congrats and a great looking build... fine job !

Now, I am back to the GP.. ahhh... all's it takes is a reminder of what we already have (at least possibly in my case) !

Thank you so much for your pic's.. they're wonderful..

A couple of quick questions though:
1. What is the round device that sits atop the wing?? Looks like a compass from this perspective, but I doubt that would be it
2. Where did you get your landing gear setup? Mfr., et al.?
3. My LHS guy told me that making it a taildragger (with a GP Stik) is problematic because of the rudder does not fully extend downward... he said it would have to be a "floating" rear wheel setup. Yours?

Again, beautiful work and beautiful plane...

Peace be with you.

Don

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

May be this will help Don,



[/quote]



*************


Hey, Diglivn (or a reasonable facsimile thereof)!

Where did you get those snazzy wheels? They are a very nice touch.

All you need now is a faux cockpit on top of the wing and a couple of machine guns over the fuel tank area.


Ed Cregger

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Ed Moorman!

I have a few questions, can you please help me move the rudder servo to the back , as you have done in your Stik? I love that setup, and wonder how did you reinforce the servo box area, or create it for that matter. I am new to building and want to do this right, as well as enjoy the benefits of the pull-pull rudder setup.

If you like, we can take this off-forum so we don;t mess up this thread, but then again, maybe some would enjoy the same info.
Additionally, I plan on copying the support system you have for the stab/rudder and would love to better understand how, what , etc. of that addition/mod.
You made some great additions/improvements and I hope you don;t mind me copying such.


Thank you in advance for your time and help.

Don

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I just unpacked my Big Stik 40 ARF and haven't looked at the tail assembly yet.

Of course, that never stopped me anytime previously from having an opinion or two. 8>)

I like using bass wood for providing the servos a nice place to mount. It is light and it is plenty strong enough for the job. I've even been known to hack up a piece of pine 2x4 or 1x3 on the table saw (Dremel) and make pieces of wood suitable for the purpose mentioned previously.

I'm not a super good builder. I'm not quite a hack, but probably am not much better. My thing has always been flying, unless I designed the model myself. I really did enjoy designing/building/flying my own designs. I enjoy it when folks as me, "What model is that?"

I have built and flown a few competition pattern models in my time, but my main interest is just sport flying and having a good time. Now that I'm older, I'm beginning to enjoy the prospect of building again, but with enthusiasm instead of considering it a PITA.

I've never claimed to be an expert at anything in modeldom. I do claim to be experienced and very enthusiastic.


*** Oh, I am expert at one thing in modeldom and that is spending too much money on the hobby. Anyone else make Gold Customer status at Tower Hobbies AND Horizon Hobby in the same year? All this proves is that I'm a blinking idiot.


Ed Cregger

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Ummm, doh ! Sorry , my mistake for not being more explicit on the names... Ed Moorman was whom I was directing the questions relative to the mounting of the servo in the rearward area so that one can have a pull-pull rudder system on the GP STik... I apologize Ed Cregger for not being more specific on the names, but I DO GREATLY appreciate your input and thoughts and suggestions because whatever experience you do have, is a whole lot more than mine.

I was addressing the pics that Ed Moorman posted in Post #6 of this thread. As you can see in one of those pics, he has set up a pull-pull rudder system, so as to improve maneuverability and strength, as well as imporve the CG of the plane, as he points out.

I am truly sorry for the confusion, but Ed C, please advise as you see fit... I appreciate your help and time. Also, since you are building the Stik at the same time as I, it would be great to talk along the way and see if we can help each other as well as pass information along that we learn. I know I would be greatly appreciative in having "by-my-side" during this build. Thanks Ed C !!

Fond Regards,

DOn

carrellh

Not my plane, but. . .

The landing gear looks like this one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNM65&P=0
The wire wheels look like these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLX7&P=SM

You can just use the gear and wheels that came in the box. I ran a pushrod from the rudder servo to drive the tail wheel on my big stik 60. One guy in our club doesn't use a tail wheel at all. He just irons on a small monokote patch when it rubs through.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Hooking a tail wheel up on the Big Stick is no problem.

Locate the center point on the bottom of the fuselage that is directly under the rudder hinge line

Take away the Monokote and epoxy maple plywood on the bottom large enough for a Dubro tail wheel bracket and covering the area of the hinge C/L mark.

Put a piece of rigid tubing plastic, aluminum, or brass through the plywood and the horizontal stabilizer that is in alignment with the rudder hinge line.

Make a new wire for the tail wheel that is the same diameter as the original but long enough to extend up through the tubing int the rudder hinge line and turn 90 degrees into the rudder where it is epoxied in place for steering action

For the mail wheels epoxy a piece of 1/4 maple ply in the bottom of the fuselage behind F-2 and bolt the gear to it.

I did this LT40 that way and have flow it for a year


That's it.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Carrell and W8ye... thx for the info.. very helpful!

On another note: When moving the main landing gear forward, so that the Big Stik is a taildragger, would you say the best location for the gear is directly below the LE of the wing? Should the front edge of the landing gear be equal to the leading edge, or the center-point of the main gear be equal with the leading edge??? Any help you can give me on where to best locate the front (main) landing gear for transforming the Stik into a taildragger is appreciated.

Thanks guys !

Don

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've done several and have always been successful in mounting the landing gear right behind the former that is in front of the wing.

But on my Four Star planes the landing gear is mounted just in front of this bulkhead former.

Both type planes flew fine.

Your key point is the leading edge of the wing. Try to get the C/L of the wheels as close to this point as you can

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

That's great info w8ye... I mean "Your key point is the leading edge of the wing. Try to get the C/L of the wheels as close to this point as you can" That is what I was looking for.... I suspect that making sure the wheels are mounted in alignment to the fuse is also of utmost importance... I was planning on measuring the distance from the front corner of the fuse (at the firewall) to the center-line of the wheel mounting hole on each side on the fuse, and making sure they are equal (don't want a plane which goes around in circles ! lol)

I have read/seen various methods/opinions as to where to mount the landing gear in relationship to the leading edge of the wing, and for as many as I have read, there are almost the same amount of methods/opinions !

I plan on using your method, making sure the center-line of the wheel mounting holes (or the wheel hub)are in-line/equal to the leading edge of the wing. I suspect all should be fine. (fingers crossed, lol)

Thanks you for your help.

Don

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

I do have a couple of more questions, however;

1) Since I am moving the main landing gear to the front of the plane to transform the Big Stik into a tail-dragger, do you think it is necessary to remove the mounting platform from the original location. I was planning on using my own (new) hardware and plywood support/platform. I just am wondering how many of you guys out there remove the (what will be ) unused hardware and plywood, etc. so that it is not adding to the weight of the plane, or am I just being anal here? I could, obviously reuse the included platform and blind-nuts but I am not too sure that would be best practice and would be of the structural integrity required for the fuse/landing gear.

2) To mount the tail-wheel to the fuse/stab I have a situation I do not know what to do with... please advise What I mean is, on the underside of the stabilizer, at the furthermost rearward part of the plane, the instructions call for mounting an included piece of balsa wood, called a "small ventral fin" It can be seen in this pdf manual on page 9 ( http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1220-1221-manual.pdf ).
The fin is approx. 6 inch. long and at it's tallest point, about 1 3/8 inch. and is 1/4 thick. It is a triangle, with the tallest end to be mounted to the rearmost part of the stabilizer. Being only 1/4 thick, either of the two tail-wheel assemblies I plan on using may be too wide. I am also concerned with the structural integrity of the ventral fin (and stab) upon landing, since the plane (ventral fin) was not designed for this application...??? Would you mount the tail-wheel assembly to the furthermost rearward section of the fuse, in front of the stabilizer instead, to resolve this issue? If so, would that be a problem in landing the aircraft?

The two tail-wheel mounting assemblies I will be choosing from (only because I already own them... I do not have any preference for ANY particular assembly) are:

Choice #1 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFV47&P=ML
or Choice #2 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWW8&P=7

I am not sure what is the best method to attach either of these 2 tail-wheel assemblies to the ventral fin??? Also, which tail-wheel assembly do you advise me to use, or please advise on a different one?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Don