CMPro T-34 Build
#26
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From: Clinton,
MD
On my h9 mentor i didnt have any problems on my nosegear.... maybe its just the spacing on the firewall and the engine stand offs. mine fit perfectley.
#27
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From: Rockledge,
FL
There doesn't seem to be much action in this thread, so I'll post my views of the CMPro T-34. I just completed the maiden and second flight on Sunday and first off let me just say WOW! This is my third CMP plane and the quality is on par or better than the over-priced name-brand stuff. Hangar 9 and Horizon have lost my business by doubling their prices.
Some notes I have on the build; The manual is barely helpful. If you have built a few arfs then you should have little trouble figuring it out. The nose gear cables do get in the way once retracted so I used springs to take up the slack. I powered with an OS 56FSa (great motor) it swings a 12x6 triple at 10K rpm so it has plenty of power for this plane. The retracts seem strong enough for most improved surfaces, they're relatively short and the wire is pretty thick. The flight characteristics are absolutely beautiful. Once the gear retracted, the airframe smoothed out and it was an absolute blast to fly. I tried pretty hard to get a stall out of it, but all it did was nose down, no tipping. I guess that's a property of the "T" in the t-34 design.
[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
Some notes I have on the build; The manual is barely helpful. If you have built a few arfs then you should have little trouble figuring it out. The nose gear cables do get in the way once retracted so I used springs to take up the slack. I powered with an OS 56FSa (great motor) it swings a 12x6 triple at 10K rpm so it has plenty of power for this plane. The retracts seem strong enough for most improved surfaces, they're relatively short and the wire is pretty thick. The flight characteristics are absolutely beautiful. Once the gear retracted, the airframe smoothed out and it was an absolute blast to fly. I tried pretty hard to get a stall out of it, but all it did was nose down, no tipping. I guess that's a property of the "T" in the t-34 design.
[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
#31
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I like the spring idea for the pull-pull. I'll have to do that tonight. I tried to fly mine this weekend, but I had a locked up retract servo on the mains[:@], so didn't do anything on Sat. Of course, the gear was in the up position- I didn't feel the need to mess with them to lock them down - had a couple of other planes to fly before the high winds came in! Sunday, the winds were just too high for a maiden flight.[&o] I did finally get a pilot in mine, so it looks a lot better. Maybe this weekend I'll finally get it airborne[&:].
gossamerthemonster - what did you use for your CG? Thanks for the flight report!
gossamerthemonster - what did you use for your CG? Thanks for the flight report!
#32
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From: Rockledge,
FL
Ouch, I knew those cables would snag on something. I used the factory 85mm cg (it looked to be close). With the rx battery on top of the tank, my CG was at 85mm with an empty tank. The springs came from a Harbor Freight storehouse set #93323.
#34

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From: greenville,
MS
i just bought my cmp t-34, cant wait to get started!! it will have a os46 with everything left stock for now as far as the retracts go. we have a very smooth runway so im hoping for no problems.
#36
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From: Clinton,
MD
My O.S .46 AX the newest one was oustanding for my mentor plenty of power and nice aerobatics.
added some pics on the engine placement and add the pilot pictures to make bassfinder jealous...
added some pics on the engine placement and add the pilot pictures to make bassfinder jealous...
#39
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Mistermnkim - go with retract servos for the landing gear. A standard servo is not designed for operating retracts. I am using Hitec HS-75s. They are pretty inexpensive (about $30 each) you will need two. There are other brands, but they all do the same thing. Some are stronger but the expense goes up. The retract servo is designed to 180 degrees stop to stop. Its either on of off, with no set point adjustment. I also replaced the factory pushrods on the nose and main gear with 4-40 rod - no bending!
#40
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From: Clinton,
MD
I used a low-pro NES-791 for the wing retracts and a low-pro RT-88 for the nose gear.
For my control surfaces i used DS821 high torque servos.
Heres the 791: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=JRPS791
Heres the RT88: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=JSP20080
For my control surfaces i used DS821 high torque servos.
Heres the 791: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=JRPS791
Heres the RT88: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=JSP20080
#41

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From: greenville,
MS
thanks guys,did anyone have to extend the motor mounts out from the firewall or did you mount the engine at the very end of the mount? i measured how fari would have to mount the engineon the mountand there is very little material between the bolt and the end of the mount. i was thinking of mounting some blocks to the firewll then the mounts, thoughts? i was gonna use a os46 but i also mounted a saito 56 with the same results. mark
#42
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I used the factory supplied mounts. I dry fitted the cowl and used a ruler to measure from the firewall to the end of the cowling to establish where I needed to mount the engine to ensure proper clearance for the rear of the prop spinner. Then I tested fitted the engine to get the right measurement. Once that was established correctly, I added about 1/4 inch for good measure and marked my mounting holes on the motor mount. Drilled my holes and mounted the engine. Measure three times to make sure everything is right before you drill the first hole. Plenty of room left on the mounting beams even with a Saito .65.
#43

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From: greenville,
MS
bassfisher i did the same dry fit but i seem to be coming up short, i can mount at the very very end of the mount and make it happen but it seems a little close to the end of the mount for me. i might just add some ply to extend and back the engine up some if need be.
#47

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From: greenville,
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thanks bassfisher i think ill use the stock mount with a small extension to the firewll, oh also ordered the hitec retract servos you said your using cant wait till they get here!! mark...
#49
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From: Rockledge,
FL
Well I've got about 8 flights on it now (mostly in a 10kt crosswind [
]). Still turning out to be a pretty good plane. The gear is holding up nicely, and the springs (on the cables) seem to do their job. The tires are wearing fast though.
Now I have noticed a tendency to rudder rock (lack of a better term) at about 1/2 throttle. The plane seems to oscillate back and forth a little in a horizontal plane (as if there's rudder input) with no known cause. There shouldn't be any radio interference as I'm using Futaba 2.4ghz. I have re trimmed the ailerons and rudder with no success in elimination. I've read a little about 3-D and Bi-planes doing something similar, and the solution was to move the CG. The "field crew" suggests the large canopy may be causing turbulence. Anyone have input on this issue?
]). Still turning out to be a pretty good plane. The gear is holding up nicely, and the springs (on the cables) seem to do their job. The tires are wearing fast though. Now I have noticed a tendency to rudder rock (lack of a better term) at about 1/2 throttle. The plane seems to oscillate back and forth a little in a horizontal plane (as if there's rudder input) with no known cause. There shouldn't be any radio interference as I'm using Futaba 2.4ghz. I have re trimmed the ailerons and rudder with no success in elimination. I've read a little about 3-D and Bi-planes doing something similar, and the solution was to move the CG. The "field crew" suggests the large canopy may be causing turbulence. Anyone have input on this issue?
#50
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Finally got the first flight in on my T-34. It was a little hair rasing, but all right. It all started out after a trip to Miami this past weekend. I finally found my Hobbico retracts that I have been looking for. Getting home, I noticed that it will take some work to make the nose gear work right, so I decided to work with the factory supplied one. Tuesday was a little windy, so I brought the T-34 and my Sig Mayhem 40 to the field. After flying the Hayhem in the wind, I decided to test out the nose gear on the T-34 to make sure I had everything set up right. I swear I was only doing a fast taxi on the runway. Between the 10 ft ground run (Saito .65 4S witha Zinger 12X6) and the sudden wind gust, I was airborne. Holy smokes, guess I have to fly it now. Thank goodness I always do a complete pre-flight, even for taxi tests. About 5 clicks of down, it tamed the beast and now to get it around the patch. Winds were gusting pretty good (15-20 mph), but at least down the runway. I did not retract the gear, just concentrated on flying the plane. Lined up for final, winds still gusting, but she settled very nice. Nose wheel held up.
Yesterday, I was going to fly it again, but this time the field was way to wet for those little wheels, but the nose wheel bushing is loose, so I'll have to either fix it, or just repalce the nose gear with the Hobbico nose wheel assembly.
Hopefully I'll get one of the weekends where the winds are 5-10, the field is dry, and everything is ready to go on the plane.
Yesterday, I was going to fly it again, but this time the field was way to wet for those little wheels, but the nose wheel bushing is loose, so I'll have to either fix it, or just repalce the nose gear with the Hobbico nose wheel assembly.
Hopefully I'll get one of the weekends where the winds are 5-10, the field is dry, and everything is ready to go on the plane.



