Is anyone actually flying this plane with a 1.20 size 4-stroke. If so, could you give a flight report please. Everything I can find is larger, like Saito 1.80's and OS1.60's!

Mine used (now deceased) a YS120. Flight was great, would hover at about 2/3 throttle, much faster than you would think for a bipe and it could do anything my fingers would allow. IMO the YS120 was plenty of engine. If wild 3D is your taste, the 140 would perhaps be more appropriate, but I found the 120 to be much more than adequate, it was plenty.

I bought a NIB YSE 120 for my DP Ultimate-I think it'll be plenty!

VOTE!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...703&forumid=57]

we had one at out field that had a ys 120 on it she flew great but borderline 3d but it would sail up unlimted.....

I cant really 3-D anyway, if i did do it, it would be purely by accident

Hey Jim; What prop did you run on your 120?

APC 16-8

Perfect, that's what I figured on using for mine.

Jim

One more question

What did you do for exhaust to keep from hacking the cowl up too bad, it looks like if an extension were available you could use the stock muffler/pipe setup?

I used a Hyde mount which actually pushed the engine forward about 1/2 inch more than the plans show. With the engine that far forward I only needed to cut a hole for the header pipe. I would thread the muffler and header on the engine after the cowl was mounted. It worked ok, not great but ok.

Well, I am very close to deciding to start my blue DP with the YS1.20. But I have a question on the DP hinges.

My current "Bulldog" DP is about 1.5 years old I think. I have now had the rudder hinges and one side of the elevator pull out and had three hinges actually break in half. Now, granted it appears that the builder (not me) did not do a very good job of installation the hinges (poor penetration); but they also appear to be of poor quality.

I would definitely suggest using known high quality hinges and center drilling the slots before installing. It actually appears that the vertical and horizontal stabs are made out of a higher quality (denser) balsa that inhibits CA penetration. On the ones that pulled out, the CA only penetrated about 1/8"

if you like ca hinges use the blue one as they are outstanding compared them to the white ones. i think sig is they name they are under.....draw a pencil mark on the ceter line so that the ca doesnt stick to that area and place your pin on the ca and ca in place....

I want to find a metric extension to give me about an extra 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the cowl. I installed the engine and it's right on the money as far as distance from tyhe firewall. If I dont lower the exhaust, i'll have to cut the crap outta the cowl and I dont want to if I dont have too.

Anyone know of such a thing, (mabee from o.s. or some other manufacturer), I would appreciate it.

I believe the blue ones are Radio South hinges. The Sig ones are white, and are a little flimsy compared to the RS ones. I like the Rs hinges much better because they're easier to get into the slots.

Am still flying a profile with Sonic-Tronics hinges on the ailerons , It's been redesigned with a new tail . I've been flying it for 10 yrs. with no failures [ I only use Zap glue products ] including many full power vertical dives [ to show people that flutter need not be accepted ] I preformed tests on a few brands of hinges before chosing ST , I've no intention of using anything else , they've been buletproof . As been stated , lack of glue is largely responsible for most failures , the ST hinges have a nice slot to make glueing easy .
Good Luck
Maj. Crash