Top Flite Cessna 182 ARF
#1152
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From: Laurel, MD
<div style="text-align: left;">Im planning on running 3151's on everything... guy at the hobby shop tells me ill be ok with those but those are only rated at 43oz. This plane calls for a minimum if 44 oz in. Will i be ok with these if i run them at 6 volts??</div>
#1155
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From: Biloela, AUSTRALIA
Thinking about buying this airplane and would a Saito 120 be ok for this plane and hopefully not too much engine sticks out the cowl.
#1156

My Feedback: (17)
A Saito 1.20 would be way too much power, also you will get more vibration from a larger single.
A .91 4 stroke or .75 2 strokewould be more suited to this plane. Mine has a Saito 1.00 and I rarely go above 1/2 throttle. Also, with a larger engine, there is the potential to fly too fast and induce flutter in the rudder resulting in a forced reunion with the earth.
A .91 4 stroke or .75 2 strokewould be more suited to this plane. Mine has a Saito 1.00 and I rarely go above 1/2 throttle. Also, with a larger engine, there is the potential to fly too fast and induce flutter in the rudder resulting in a forced reunion with the earth.
#1157
I was wondering if a FA-90 R3 Saito radial would fit in this plane. It's diameter is 168 mm.
This is a .91 engine that will swing a 13 x 6 propeller.
This is a .91 engine that will swing a 13 x 6 propeller.
#1158

My Feedback: (17)
It's possible, 168mm equates to 6.6 in. I just went and looked at mine and it looks like if you put the cylinders at the 2, 6and 10 o'clock position they would fit but you would have to cut a small amount of the cowl at the bottom. But why would you want to cover such a beautiful engine.
I'll trade you a nearly new OS .91 S II for it.
I'll trade you a nearly new OS .91 S II for it.
#1159
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From: M�xico, D. F.M�xico, D. F., MEXICO
Hi callide: kaP2011 is rigth: A .91 4 stroke or .75 2 stroke is OK for this Cessna. I'm flying mine with Saito 120S with excellent results: consider that I fly at 2,200 mts of altitude, with an 14X7 propeller. I allways prefer extra power in my airplanes. With this engine, abort landings is very easy: just retract flaps, full throthle and eany hesitation...
The Saito 120S fits perfect. Here a photo. Good luck.
The Saito 120S fits perfect. Here a photo. Good luck.
#1160
I installed a hardwood bearing on rudder control arm and short push rods to stop the flutter.Also I installed baffling on my saito fg 20 to stop the overheating.You do not want to
open up the bottom of the cowl because it will decrease the cooling.
open up the bottom of the cowl because it will decrease the cooling.
#1163
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From: Port St Lucie,
FL
Hi all,
I purchased the cessna a while back and I am going to get around to building it soon. Here is what I purchased so far:
Spektrum 821 servos, Robart nose wheel, LiFe batts..... I have a magnum .91 4 stroke or a saito 100.
I am not sure which engine would be the best canidate for this build. Also what mods are critical to do first...
Any help wopuld be greatly appreciated
Thanks
I purchased the cessna a while back and I am going to get around to building it soon. Here is what I purchased so far:
Spektrum 821 servos, Robart nose wheel, LiFe batts..... I have a magnum .91 4 stroke or a saito 100.
I am not sure which engine would be the best canidate for this build. Also what mods are critical to do first...
Any help wopuld be greatly appreciated
Thanks
#1164

My Feedback: (17)
The .91 will be more than enough engine. I have the 1.00 on mine and it is way more than needed. The Robart robo strut will be ok but 1 good nose down landing and you will be replacing it. I have had to repair mine twice due to bent parts. If I keep it on the paved runway it's ok but if I come in on the grass and miss the flare, it's back to Robart for parts.
Have you read thru the thread yet? There is alot of good info here. Make sure to read it all. There is a modification to the rudder you will need to do, also you will want to beef up the nose wheel mount and add to the rake so the robostrut will work better. The firewall is a little weak due to the large holes cut in for cooling on the electric version. I took the two egg shaped pieces out and then epoxied them back in for strength.
!Big one here! Don't follow the manual on the instalation of the flaps! First put on the wing tips, then the ailerons, then join the wing halfs and center section, then do the flaps last. It will be much easier to line up the flaps with the ailerons and center section. You will need to clamp the ailerons to the wingtips to keep them from moving while you add the flaps.If the flaps are not even with the whole assembly you will have problems with getting them to work together and evenly. Be sure to use 30 min epoxy to give yourself time to get them lined up right.
You will love the way this plane flies. And when you get the flare right, it's a thing of beauty on landing. Don't let it get too slow though, it will tip stall like all Cessna's.
Have you read thru the thread yet? There is alot of good info here. Make sure to read it all. There is a modification to the rudder you will need to do, also you will want to beef up the nose wheel mount and add to the rake so the robostrut will work better. The firewall is a little weak due to the large holes cut in for cooling on the electric version. I took the two egg shaped pieces out and then epoxied them back in for strength.
!Big one here! Don't follow the manual on the instalation of the flaps! First put on the wing tips, then the ailerons, then join the wing halfs and center section, then do the flaps last. It will be much easier to line up the flaps with the ailerons and center section. You will need to clamp the ailerons to the wingtips to keep them from moving while you add the flaps.If the flaps are not even with the whole assembly you will have problems with getting them to work together and evenly. Be sure to use 30 min epoxy to give yourself time to get them lined up right.
You will love the way this plane flies. And when you get the flare right, it's a thing of beauty on landing. Don't let it get too slow though, it will tip stall like all Cessna's.
#1165

My Feedback: (17)
I've decided to replace my Saito 1.00 with a new OS .95 FS that I got a good deal on. So far the only difference I've found is that the Saito is 3mm longer so I had to space the mount out further which resulted in having to change the cutout for the head a little. Other than that it seems to be a good fit.
Got a killer deal on a NIB OS 160 Gemini also. Too bad I can't put it on the Cessna. Gonna put it on a 1/4 scale Sig Spacewalker II instead.
Got a killer deal on a NIB OS 160 Gemini also. Too bad I can't put it on the Cessna. Gonna put it on a 1/4 scale Sig Spacewalker II instead.
#1166
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From: E. Wenatchee, WA
Great build thread.
Could anyone please give me the dimensions for the cowl?
W x H x Length?
Also, the wingtips?
Length x thickness at the cord?
thanks in advance,
Jeff
Could anyone please give me the dimensions for the cowl?
W x H x Length?
Also, the wingtips?
Length x thickness at the cord?
thanks in advance,
Jeff
#1167

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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hunterandjeff - cowl dimensions = 7-1/16" deep, 8-3/8" wide and 7-11/16" high plus air exits on bottomtaking overall height to 8-3/8".
- wing tip dimensions = 8-3/8" long, 1-5/8" wide at widest point and 1-7/32" high at widest point.
cheers - maxiemac
- wing tip dimensions = 8-3/8" long, 1-5/8" wide at widest point and 1-7/32" high at widest point.
cheers - maxiemac
#1168
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From: E. Wenatchee, WA
Thank you Maxiemac!!!!
That 7 1/16" deep is from the firewall to the spinner, right?
And that 1 7/32" is the wing cord thickness?
Jeff
That 7 1/16" deep is from the firewall to the spinner, right?
And that 1 7/32" is the wing cord thickness?
Jeff
#1169

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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hunterandjeff - 7-1/16" is the overallheight of the cowl when it is sitting on its back on a bench and measured to the top where the engine crankshaft exithole is (nose ring) - the distance from the engine crank exit hole (nose ring) to the firewall is approx. 6-7/8" - there is right thrust built into the cowl nose ring.
The cowl sits on to a rebate around the firewall and is screwed to the fuz via mounting blocks located around the firewall perimeter so the cowl outer surfacesitslevelwith the fuz outer surface.
Yes, 1-7/32" is the height measurement when looking along the length of thewing at the wingtipend.
I have a spare cowl and wingtips bought at the time I bought the model, so I was able to measure them separately, not on the model.
cheers - maxiemac
The cowl sits on to a rebate around the firewall and is screwed to the fuz via mounting blocks located around the firewall perimeter so the cowl outer surfacesitslevelwith the fuz outer surface.
Yes, 1-7/32" is the height measurement when looking along the length of thewing at the wingtipend.
I have a spare cowl and wingtips bought at the time I bought the model, so I was able to measure them separately, not on the model.
cheers - maxiemac
#1171
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From: M�xico, D. F.M�xico, D. F., MEXICO
Kap2011: You have given us a GREAT suggestion on bulding the flaps. Hope I've had read you deforme installing mine.
Thanks.
Bgoyos
Thanks.
Bgoyos
#1172

My Feedback: (17)
Thank you bgoyos, I learned the flap instellation sequence the hard way. On the first wing half I follow the manual and gotthe flapmisaligned. I had to cut the flap off and drill out the hinge points. I learned another trick then. I used a piece of 1/4" brass tubing, sharpened on the end like a hole saw, I left the hinge point a little long to act like a guide and just drilled it out. It worked like a charm.
I've not flown my Cessna much lately, the weather has been windy and cold in North Georgia. I also replaced the nose strut with the OEM part because I bent a third robo strut, not because I came in nose down, but because I turned too soon after landing during the roll out. I'm searching for a better nose strut than the Robart strut. The OS 95V turned out to be the perfect engine for this plane, it sounds great, has more thanenough powerand has practically no vibration. I'm looking forward to spring to fly it some more.
I've not flown my Cessna much lately, the weather has been windy and cold in North Georgia. I also replaced the nose strut with the OEM part because I bent a third robo strut, not because I came in nose down, but because I turned too soon after landing during the roll out. I'm searching for a better nose strut than the Robart strut. The OS 95V turned out to be the perfect engine for this plane, it sounds great, has more thanenough powerand has practically no vibration. I'm looking forward to spring to fly it some more.
#1173
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From: M�xico, D. F.M�xico, D. F., MEXICO
Nice to hear you again Kap2011. I agree: OS has done an excellent work on the 95V. I'm using it in other airplane... Considering that I fly 2,300 mts above sea level... I installed in my Cessna a SAITO 120 with excellent results. Sure, it's more than needed..... I've also bent the robart, but adding tail weight makes me land in almost stall situation: In the last 1 or 2 seconds before landing I pull full elevator... Imagin that... but helps me to touch land with the front landing gear (robart) almost without presure. Hope, this can help.
BGOYOS
BGOYOS
#1174

My Feedback: (17)
The landings are a thing of beauty, I've bent the nose gear once with a nose down landing but the other two times have been when i turned to quick at the end of the roll out. It would bend sideways. When I do go back to struts I'm going to use nylon screws that will shear off if I turn too fast. Maybe that will keep me from bending the strut.
#1175
Senior Member
Hey Gentlemen
I just found this thread, I have read 27 pages so far.
I just got my 182 NIB. Lots of good info here,thanks
to all. I have a very reliable OS 120 4stroke just waiting
to fly. I want to go with a scale nose gear, either Robart
or Sierra. Not sure which one,as there is different opinions
in the early pages of this thread. Any input is welcomed.
Thanks,
Bob


