ahicks

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Um, back to the alum. for just a second. I made mine from a piece of roofing flashing (sheet metal)? The alum reinforcement is roughly the same size as the ply. landing gear plate, with maybe 1/2"-3/4" extra on the front - to allow that to be bent over at a 90 degree angle, and fastened to the firewall? Much lighter/tidier than a piece of extruded might be. That bend easily accomplished reasonably neatly in a vice.

The flashing is sold in rolls at HD or Lowes. It's kinda stiff, not real easy to bend with your fingers.

orthobird

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flew her again today twice.  this time, engine started to misbehave, had to bring her down, tried to tune her, but no luck.  will have to tune her at home.  i think it may be glow plug.  seems like when the pressure from muffler to gas tank comes off, where it idles well, but when you accelerate, it rpm's up, then one or two senconds later, starts to rev down.

VictoryRoll

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Well that drawing/depiction was not what I was looking for.... so dang hard to align crap, even w/ tabs or spaces...

VictoryRoll

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Ooooo..... I have some of that.... actually in 3' X 2' sheets..... awesome idea @ahicks, thank you so much! Can you give me an idea of the size of the piece you used ? how far did you wrap(up the firewall) and (along the bottom of the fuse? All of your help is truly appreciated, and I thank you.

Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones, and a very, very Happy & Healthy New Year!

Don

wjcalhoun

Don:

There are a bunch of moving parts in your post:

1 - condition of the fuse; if she has breaks or is no longer straight, have Tower replace it because it will not fly correctly. If it is just wrinkles, it gives you practice with your covering iron []
2 - anti-rotation pins not aligning. THIS IS A BIG DEAL, because the anti-rotation pins define the incidence of the wing; that needs to be RIGHT, but more important, the two sides have to be IDENTICAL. I can check mine, but i would presume with a semi-symmetrical wing, the incidence would be ZERO. To achieve that, the center of the leading edge, and the center of the trailing edge should be EXACTLY the same distance from a datum line. You can use the upper surface of the fuse between the FW and the aft end of the cockpit as your datum line. Measure carefully, set the wing so that those distances are equal, and then very carefully enlarge the AR holes until the index pins fit securely. I would use a round hand file, rather than a power tool. Repeat on the other side. If the incidence of the two wings differs, the plane will never fly correctly. You can try to trim it out, but there will be a speed sensitivity to the roll trim. BAD. Incidence could be as much as 1/2* positive. You can figure out how much higher the leading edge should be with trigonometry. {sin(1/2*) x chord length at wing root = difference between LE and TE}

IF ANYONE KNOWS THE PROPER INCIDENCE OF THE R70 WING, PLEASE LET DON KNOW!

3 - wing fit onto the carbon tube. RESIST THE URGE TO SAND THE TUBE. wax it, install and uninstall, etc. The balsa in the wing will wear slightly, and it will get easier.
4 - on the savox servos, go for it. Many of us find that dual elevator servos are worth the small amount of additional work to build mounting structure aft to hold them. Many posts detail differnt approaches, but building structure is not so hard once you get over the mental hurdle of cutting into the (perfectly good) covering aft. On a related note, use a metal gear servo for your throttle servo also; plastic gears are said not to hold up to the vibration of a gasoline engine.
5 - ailerons. You will hear different opinions here. One group may say - fly it and see; if they fail, fix it. If you are comfortable landing a plane with a sick aileron - really not too big a deal - then that may be reasonable. Not all of the CA hinges have failed. I personally cut them out, and replaced them with the 1/8" robart hinge points (your second option, only the 1/8, rather than 3/16, which are really for 29%, 50cc sized planes). I used 6; two closer together at each end of the aileron, about 4" apart from each other, and the other two (or three) spaced out. I don't personally think that you need the strength of the nylon pinned hinges (your first option). For adhesive, i recommend epoxy. I have not tried aliphatic glue, but i have tried gorilla (polyurethane) glue. i have had failures on elevators, rudders, and ailerons with gorilla, so i no longer trust it. never a failure with 30 min epoxy.

On aligning the robarts hinges - they are a bit fussy. I tape the aileron to the wing, flex it, and use a sharpie to mark both the TE of the wing and LE of the aileron at the same time - that gets me correct alignment along the length of the aileron. I bought the robarts tool. Some don't like it, but i find that it exactly centers the drill on the edge of the surface. Once you have that (position, and centering) it is just a matter of keeping the drill 90* to the TE in both directions. I counterbore the TE of the wing, so that the knuckle of the hinge point can be buried up to the pin. That helps to minimize the gap between the aileron and the wing.

I think that covers it. Best wishes for a successful build. Thanks for the well-wishes; merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family as well.

Bill

wjcalhoun

Ortho
Might be lean on the low end if it stumbles on accelerartion; colder temps in LA, like in TX, mean that the air is denser, and we have to richen the needles. Might want to open the HS a touch as well.

Best

orthobird

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sounds good, i will do that.

thank you

Ernie Misner

Free shipping on the Savox servos too.

lopflyers

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Both revolvers 59 & 70 have LG issues. By what I hear in the 50cc thread is not better in the Big Sister.

orthobird

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lopflyer, there you are! how are you? wondering where you were!!

lopflyers

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Ortho, what size engine are you using on that beast?

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Orthobird - check your carb's throttle plate - on the DLE 20's these are known to come loose and slide off-center, which prevents it from closing. Happened to mine.


Lopflyers - So you've been "busy" for the past few months and suddenly women all around you are getting pregnant? SEE what happens when you don't hit the field regularly??

orthobird

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i hear you! Orlando is warm, you know what the warm weather can do to a woman's hormones!!!

orthobird

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Hi Microdon,

lopflyers

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Ortho: that sounded really sweet. I need to trade my RAM so I can fit bigger airplanes. Maybe the cold weather is affecting the LSN. It was 39 this morning here so I guess Lousiana was worse.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Orthobird -

You might also check the carb manifold - the piece between the carb and the crankcase. I've had those crack. And that your gasket hasn't broken. While running, if it's safe enough, cover the carb throat with your thumb. If it doesn't die you've got a leak somewhere.

orthobird

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i was going to do tomorrow, but i became enthused, so i just got permission from my wife, i moved the car out from garage, and took plane out of the trailer and put her in the garage.  i will start working on her now.  i will take pictures and post,  thanks for all advice and support.  you guys are great.

wjcalhoun

ortho
one way to diagnose leaks is with a can of spray carb cleaner, with the small tube inserted to focus the cleaner. Spray it on the outside or your carb, reed block, gasket lines, etc and around the front hub. If the engine dies, you have found a leak.

My PHP Extra engine DLE55 had that issue (i have recent F*G* and T*F*C threads) and in my case it turned out that the bearings specified by the BOCA website are incorrect, and have no seal - hence there is a big air leak through the front (and rear) bearings when i replaced the standard bearings a few weeks ago.

If your engine has been serviced, think about the possiblity that the bearing seals were either not installed, or were damaged.

Also, the obvious that you probably already checked: linkage (disconnect, and engine should die); you did keep the throttle return spring in place, right? the idle stop screw is removed?

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

WJC -

I know this is off-topic, but why did you change the bearings on your DLE 55? It' a new engine, right? (and very interesting that they could cause a leak!)

Mike

orthobird

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WJ,

lopflyers

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Yipiiiii, so can you iddle now? Post vídeos of your maiden

orthobird

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these are pics after low idle screw was removed.

i will try to maiden tomorrow.

i am so happy, it was a real easy fix.

thanks you all!!

Sbach342Guy

What is the best way to rebuild a broken fuse? I have new laser cut parts for the front half of the plane. Does CA debonder work well enough to separate pieces that are the glued?

microdon2

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SBach - where did you get laser cut parts for the front half of a Revolver fuse?

orthobird

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where is the break?  can you post pictures so we can see?