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Old 07-14-2014, 05:12 AM
  #7626  
teckbot
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Interesting comments about the spark plug gap. I just measured a brand new NGK CM-6 at .017". According to Troybuilt, DLE recommends 0.018-0.020" gap.
I will try .025" next time i'm out. I like advise based on practice.
Old 07-14-2014, 05:48 AM
  #7627  
ahicks
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For grins, do a "before" flight, then land, adjust the gap, then "after" flight with no other changes so you can see the change.
Old 07-15-2014, 08:40 AM
  #7628  
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Maidened the Rev70 and instantly new fav!!! .80 6S3700 Mah w/ 15X7 just enough speed for me and man flys like it's on rails!Satisfactory vertical and 6 minute flight with pacs still at 3.85ish per cell-(pounding it pretty hard).No surprises other than 1st couple flights zero wind and used up good part of 500' grass (fresh cut) runway. Then 5ish MPH wind and she greases right in! Just wanted to also shot out a thanks to all you great Rev70 addicts for all the help getting me up in the air really appreciate it!!! Thx ya all!
Old 07-15-2014, 01:05 PM
  #7629  
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Well done proline. Always great to get the maiden over. As you noticed -- no wind uses up a lot of ground. For me,even when almost doing a harrier type landing she descends nicely, but hit ground effect, and it just starts climbing! Even a tiny bit of wind however, and she greases right in. I had great fun earlier this week in a 10-15mph wind simply hovering in a harrier position with no forward movement and throttle just ticking over. Wing rock almost minimal -- this plane just keeps on surprizing.
Old 07-15-2014, 02:09 PM
  #7630  
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Originally Posted by Dreamtime
Well done proline. Always great to get the maiden over. As you noticed -- no wind uses up a lot of ground. For me,even when almost doing a harrier type landing she descends nicely, but hit ground effect, and it just starts climbing! Even a tiny bit of wind however, and she greases right in. I had great fun earlier this week in a 10-15mph wind simply hovering in a harrier position with no forward movement and throttle just ticking over. Wing rock almost minimal -- this plane just keeps on surprizing.
Thanks! I can't wait to get it up in some real wind. Hoping that this will be my 10-15 MPH fly any day plane! I just added a Eagle Tree Guardian 2D/3D gyro jic on those gusty crosswind days. I have the ET installed on 2 other planes and works like a champ! I only turn it on for a landing assist tho... Kind of a "cheat" but I'd rather get it down in 1 piece! It is amazing as it locks your course in like a string line. Thanks again!
Old 07-15-2014, 04:03 PM
  #7631  
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Originally Posted by proline1000
Kind of a "cheat" but I'd rather get it down in 1 piece! It is amazing as it locks your course in like a string line. Thanks again!
Hey Proline
I would not consider power steering and ABS brakes cheating on a car and i certainly would not consider EagleTree cheating either. I would rather have the plane for another day than a mishap because of outside forces. ie wind gusts.
Anyways, just curious how you have that hooked up to your plane? Specifically, i read that ailerons are on a Y harness rather than on separate channels as they should be IMHO.
Old 07-15-2014, 04:41 PM
  #7632  
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Originally Posted by teckbot
Hey Proline
I would not consider power steering and ABS brakes cheating on a car and i certainly would not consider EagleTree cheating either. I would rather have the plane for another day than a mishap because of outside forces. ie wind gusts.
Anyways, just curious how you have that hooked up to your plane? Specifically, i read that ailerons are on a Y harness rather than on separate channels as they should be IMHO.
you can run ailerons separate as there is an aux channel for ail 2! So you have both ail, elevator and rudder. You can also set up with heading hold! Quite a remarkable unit and tiny too...
Old 07-16-2014, 02:38 AM
  #7633  
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Originally Posted by proline1000
Maidened the Rev70 and instantly new fav!!! .80 6S3700 Mah w/ 15X7 just enough speed for me and man flys like it's on rails!Satisfactory vertical and 6 minute flight with pacs still at 3.85ish per cell-(pounding it pretty hard).No surprises other than 1st couple flights zero wind and used up good part of 500' grass (fresh cut) runway. Then 5ish MPH wind and she greases right in! Just wanted to also shot out a thanks to all you great Rev70 addicts for all the help getting me up in the air really appreciate it!!! Thx ya all!
Just curious. What is your CG?

I know it's a dead horse, but I bet you'd have a bigger grin if it were a little more aft. I know you're just cutting your teeth on her, but roll it around in your head a bit.

I'm not trying to get you into trouble with a twitchy plane. Lots of us have found it needs a little more in the rear to be all she can be...
Old 07-16-2014, 02:47 AM
  #7634  
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Very little headway lately, but headway none the less...

Went back to the wings and finished them off. Now very close to bolting on the dual rear elevator servos. Fingers crossed that setup works...
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:48 AM
  #7635  
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Originally Posted by mach2
Just curious. What is your CG?

I know it's a dead horse, but I bet you'd have a bigger grin if it were a little more aft. I know you're just cutting your teeth on her, but roll it around in your head a bit.

I'm not trying to get you into trouble with a twitchy plane. Lots of us have found it needs a little more in the rear to be all she can be...
I am right at standard spec for now. I agree on rearward move in general but i fly straight forward aero which i general fly neutral or even tad tad bit forward for wind penetration. I plan to fly both forward/rearward to get "seat of pants" on this airframe. Appreciate the input and will spend plenty of "airtime" rearward to get a good feel! Thxs!
Old 07-16-2014, 04:47 AM
  #7636  
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Just note that the suggested CG is the forward extreme. Nobody flies forward of that. You'll enjoy some spot you find to the rear of that more, no doubt!

Won't argue the thought regarding wind penetration (thinking dart!), but suggest you consider balancing that thought with the lower stall (and thus, landing) speeds available to the rear of suggested. Nothing special, 'neutral' is a good place to start. Problem is "neutral", is an elusive thing. To some, it's no change in altitude right side up, which usually leaves the nose requiring a little down when inverted. Neutral to me is a flat elevator, trimming it so my KE flight goes straight, without pulling towards the canopy or the gear - and often requires that I watch my altitude right side up or inverted when I slow down! Fun! Keep an open mind, and just go fly it and enjoy yourself/the plane! -Al
Old 07-16-2014, 08:02 AM
  #7637  
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Originally Posted by ahicks
Just note that the suggested CG is the forward extreme. Nobody flies forward of that. You'll enjoy some spot you find to the rear of that more, no doubt!

Won't argue the thought regarding wind penetration (thinking dart!), but suggest you consider balancing that thought with the lower stall (and thus, landing) speeds available to the rear of suggested. Nothing special, 'neutral' is a good place to start. Problem is "neutral", is an elusive thing. To some, it's no change in altitude right side up, which usually leaves the nose requiring a little down when inverted. Neutral to me is a flat elevator, trimming it so my KE flight goes straight, without pulling towards the canopy or the gear - and often requires that I watch my altitude right side up or inverted when I slow down! Fun! Keep an open mind, and just go fly it and enjoy yourself/the plane! -Al
Al, great observations/thoughts and thanks for taking the time to share! These ideas can save dozens of flights and frustration so i really do appreciate it! I will focus on bumping the COG back a bit and put some solid flights in to get a good feel. Thanks again
Old 07-18-2014, 12:29 AM
  #7638  
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Finally! Now I can move along with the rest of the build. I took forever because I had never done this mod before. Luckily it turned out well.

Everything should move along fairly swiftly now. Hopefully...
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:41 AM
  #7639  
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Jeremy - looks great. Short, positive control linkages.
Old 07-19-2014, 03:01 PM
  #7640  
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Thank you sir. It really wasnt too difficult of a mod. I just did lots of little cuts and fitting to make sure it didn't look sloppy. The covering is what I worried about most. I haven't done much of it so I don't have a ton of confidence with it, but it came out nicely.

The 5" 4-40 push rods from Hanger9 are really stout. The non threaded area on the rod is thicker than the threaded area.

Now with my third Revolver, I'll have more ability to play with the cg. With the first two, I was out of stuff I could move rearward. Also, running rods through the tubes in the fuse limited the amount of available throw. When trying to move the elevator too far, the rod would want to flex in the tube, causing a lot of drag. So, this one should be extra fun. The smoke was a lot of fun on the second plane, but it was way too much trouble fitting the pump and oil tank.

Maybe after flying her for a while I'll get the itch bad enough to make it worth the extra effort. It really was awesome to see a thick trail of smoke trailing behind such a pretty plane...

Last edited by mach2; 07-19-2014 at 03:07 PM.
Old 07-19-2014, 03:53 PM
  #7641  
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Mach2, That's a great set up with the dual elevators I think I'll have a go with that on my next revolver the hangar 9 pro-links are a quality item. Did you have any trouble installing your control horns on the tapered control surface.

I will be interested in seeing your battery location with the dual aft servo install. I'm just in the process of moving my CG aft started at 5 3/4 with receiver battery behind servo tray and ignition on motor box. I think that I will have to place the ignition battery behind the tank I would have liked to keep my ignition battery further away from my receiver.

I've had my exhaust come loose for a second time on the DLE 20RA so I've tried a fix that was mentioned earlier inn this thread. The setup is to get 2 4x50mm socket head screws and drill a 1/16 hole in the head of each bolt. Then I made two stand offs that are 8mm OD and 4mm ID. So now when the exhaust is installed the bolts protrude outside the exhaust and are lockwired. With this setup I can do a visual check that the bolt are tight with the cowl installed.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:51 PM
  #7642  
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Yes, looks a good set-up mach2. Have you got the rudder servo at rear, too? Going to try one servo at rear, try a wire joiner for two elevator halves if possible with the sweep-back on them. Rudder either pull-pull or at rear too, if c.g. allows.
\
That cure looks ok for the DLE superduke1, I guess it would work equally well on side exhaust as well.

I have finally got to start Revolver 70, added 1/4"ply to firewall, is flush with the side "ears". covered the engine box with 3/32" balsa then resin and light cloth over the lot. By using engine "T" mounts can keep 5-11/16" firewall to prop hub. Also about 2oz lighter than supplied mount. Maybe a bit of over-kill but I like the engine bay solid with a gas engine.

Just worried that I'll be to scared to fly it, they just look to darn good to risk damaging at the flying field.
Old 07-20-2014, 02:38 AM
  #7643  
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Lean-run, once you get that first flight under your belt, all you'll have on your mind is getting it fueled and in the air again. In your excitement, don't forget to look things over between flights to make sure everything is still secure. That's all you'll have to worry about.

I don't know about other guys, but I do a pre flight check before every flight. I've got too bad of luck to not do it. Once, I didn't take the canopy off to check things inside (I just did the stuff I could see on the exterior), and guess what? That's the one time my wing bolt backed out. So the wing came out far enough for the anti rotation pin to come out of its hole. Plane started doing snap rolls on its own. Luckily I chopped the throttle, got it level again and crash landed in some weeds and only broke the engine box.
Old 07-21-2014, 02:37 PM
  #7644  
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Mach2 Nice job with the elevator servo's, Interested to see your final set up & C/G with 4&1/2 extra oz's on the tail. Keep em coming !
Old 07-21-2014, 05:37 PM
  #7645  
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I said that would work really well. Some place in this thread
Originally Posted by superduke1
Mach2, That's a great set up with the dual elevators I think I'll have a go with that on my next revolver the hangar 9 pro-links are a quality item. Did you have any trouble installing your control horns on the tapered control surface.

I will be interested in seeing your battery location with the dual aft servo install. I'm just in the process of moving my CG aft started at 5 3/4 with receiver battery behind servo tray and ignition on motor box. I think that I will have to place the ignition battery behind the tank I would have liked to keep my ignition battery further away from my receiver.

I've had my exhaust come loose for a second time on the DLE 20RA so I've tried a fix that was mentioned earlier inn this thread. The setup is to get 2 4x50mm socket head screws and drill a 1/16 hole in the head of each bolt. Then I made two stand offs that are 8mm OD and 4mm ID. So now when the exhaust is installed the bolts protrude outside the exhaust and are lockwired. With this setup I can do a visual check that the bolt are tight with the cowl installed.
Old 07-23-2014, 01:03 AM
  #7646  
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Originally Posted by superduke1
Mach2, That's a great set up with the dual elevators I think I'll have a go with that on my next revolver the hangar 9 pro-links are a quality item. Did you have any trouble installing your control horns on the tapered control surface.

I will be interested in seeing your battery location with the dual aft servo install. I'm just in the process of moving my CG aft started at 5 3/4 with receiver battery behind servo tray and ignition on motor box. I think that I will have to place the ignition battery behind the tank I would have liked to keep my ignition battery further away from my receiver.
No problems with the control horns. I just tighten them down and it squeezes down the wood until its flush.

For the CG, I'm shooting for 6.25 to 6.5". I was at 6.25" on my last one and I think a little more aft will be even better for slow flight and more agile aerobatics. Since I've never run rear elevator servos, I have no idea where my battery will go. I use a Tech-aero ultra IBEC, so I use one 2100mah LiFe battery to power the plane and ignition. Each flight (6-7 minutes) uses 150-175mah with the same battery on my Edge 540 with all digital servos and more aggressive flying. So this set up saves weight and gives plenty of available flights.

Lean-run, I wish I could put a rudder servo in the rear but I think that would push the CG too far back. I considered doing a pull-pull after I finished the elevator servo mod. I should have done it when I was in there. There are too many formers in the way to easily do a pull-pull now. So, I will just do the standard rod set up. Im going to put one of the sullivan golden rods over the 2-56 rod as a sleeve to stiffen it up where it's not in the guide tube.
Old 07-23-2014, 01:25 AM
  #7647  
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Oh, a note for the other DLE guys. My 20 has been on the shelf for over a year so I wanted to replace the diaphragm and the other little "fiber paper valve thingy" on the other side of the carb. So, I stopped by the local lawnmower shop. I got a rebuild kit for 10 bucks. So if anyone else needs a kit, try a local shop to save some wait time and a couple bucks over the hobby shops. Or if you dont mind waiting and want to save more money, check this place out...free shipping. http://www.carbtech21.com/ProductDet...ctCode=K10-WAT

I like supporting the hobby, but this is one instance where I decided to go elsewhere. I spend plenty of money with the hobby shops on most everything else.

Last edited by mach2; 07-23-2014 at 01:29 AM.
Old 07-23-2014, 02:45 AM
  #7648  
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Re: pull-pull rudder cable routing? I run the cables through the lower 2 tubes that come from the factory, and a servo off set to the right side. Battery is right next to this servo, and slightly to the rear. Yes, I like rear CG (but not saying it needs to be here to fly right, nor am I endorsing test flights made this way). Seems like it comes out right at the back side of the joiner tube, but that's going from some pretty old memory, so I'm not sure of that. Will update in a few days when I get to that again.
Old 07-23-2014, 05:23 PM
  #7649  
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Originally Posted by mach2
Oh, a note for the other DLE guys. My 20 has been on the shelf for over a year so I wanted to replace the diaphragm and the other little "fiber paper valve thingy" on the other side of the carb. So, I stopped by the local lawnmower shop. I got a rebuild kit for 10 bucks. So if anyone else needs a kit, try a local shop to save some wait time and a couple bucks over the hobby shops. Or if you dont mind waiting and want to save more money, check this place out...free shipping. http://www.carbtech21.com/ProductDet...ctCode=K10-WAT

I like supporting the hobby, but this is one instance where I decided to go elsewhere. I spend plenty of money with the hobby shops on most everything else.
Hey mach2,
Good tip on the carb kits!
Thank you
Old 07-29-2014, 04:43 AM
  #7650  
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Painted my motor and prop.





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