Stone17

She running again. I replaced the pump, gaskets and reed (old reed).

She running smooth and set the card to factory settings.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

wjc - on my Rev 70 \ DLE 20 I've switched from the APC 16x8 to the APC 15x10, for more speed. And, as you say, it still has excellent vertical. How is vertical with your 14x12? I have a prop - just haven't tried it yet.

Just rebuilt my Rev 70 after crashing it a few weeks ago (was doing a knife-edge circle around the field and lost it). Looking forward to flying it this weekend!

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I went with the Amsoil decals because the colors are fairly close to matching those of the Revolver's scheme.

You mean like Vette, as in corvette? If that's what you're talking about, I'm sure there are all kinds of places to get the checkered flag logo. I've got a 96 Camaro SS that I've done lots of mods to including C5 Z06 front brakes, so I'm a member on Z06corvette.com (where I bought my calipers from a member). I'm sure there are lots of vendors on that forum that sell large decals.
This would be a cool one...



I personally like the "Jake" skull, but it wouldn't be a good fit on the wings.

clockshop

i have been flying this aircraft for quite awhile i have a sato 100 4 stroke with APC 16x10 just the right set up for this plane it does it all knife edge loops,flat spins,snap rolls, stall turns a real pleasure to fly landing is right out of the text book

superduke1

Hi Clockshop, What CG do you have I'm still struggling to do flat spins. I have my CG at 6" I'm running out of things to move further back also running 40mm up and down elevator travel. At CG of 6" the revolver feels tail heavy on landing but that might just be me.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I've flown my past two at 6.25" and it felt great. I'm going to start there again and then also try a little further back to get flatter spins.

I know that someone else mentioned they tried using a 4-40 rod for the rear control surfaces but it didn't fit through the guide tubes. Has anyone else tried using a 4-40 for the rudder? The guide tubes look like they would be plenty big enough. I don't have any 4-40 rods to try out right now.

I tried sliding a sullivan gold n rod over the 2-56 but there was just too much friction. I also remember some guys talking about using a carbon rod as a sleeve for the 2-56, but wouldn't that be as big or bigger than a 4-40 rod?

Thanks,
Jeremy

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

mach2-
You have a rear mounted elevator servos, right?

If so, and the original tubes that run through the fuse are still in place, you can use the tubes originally designed to carry the 2-56 rods for the elevator as guides for pull pull rudder cables to get away from push rods completely.

As this 2nd plane was being built, I did revisit where things needed to be for correct balance. I mentioned in an earlier note I would post the results. Still not at final CG, but I did end up with some pretty largish metal gear servos on the elevators in back, and the pull-pull rudder setup on another metal gear servo mounted to one side in the rear tray with the battery next to it. Gas tank is mounted as far back as I can get it, up against the wing tube.

It's been maidened without the cowl in place, as I found the first plane needed some down thrust right after mounting the cowl the last time, screwing up the spinner alignment big time. After maybe 4 flights on it so far, still haven't made up my mind there, but I do see my CG needs to come back further than where I have it presently. CG not measured, so I can't share where it's at currently but it's somewhere on the back half of the wing tube. Knife edge seems balanced, but when the plane is slowed WAY down, getting a lot of wing rock I don't remember having previously. Plane not weighed yet either, so I hope that's not part of that issue (heavy). A note for those that haven't been following for a while, my planes are pushed into 3D type maneuvers regularly, so I run a plane many might consider as tail heavy. CG way back from suggested. What I'm doing is not necessarily the "right" way. It's being set up "my" way.

More later...
-Al

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Yeah, I'm running rear elevator servos (Hitec 645MG on all surfaces). I was going to do a pull pull but for some reason it seemed like it was going to be a big PITA. I can't remember why though. I'll take another look at it.

Im assuming you put the servo offset because of the way the tubes are offset for the elevators.

I was going to use the tube for the rudder and the antenna tube to run pull pull wires because they exit lower on the fuse. Do your pull pull wires out of the elevator tubes get in the way of anything? Hit the elevators or anything like that?

Oh, and I'm still hoping for some video of some of your 3D moves with the Revolver.

I've yet to laterally balance any of my planes (I'll be doing it on my 50cc Extra and may do this current Revolver), but I'm wondering if your wing rock would be cured with a lateral balance?

Where do you have your battery located? On my last two planes I had a 3200mah LiFe battery placed on the floor of the fuse behind the rear servo tray which netted me a 6.25" CG (I had the stock elevator and rudder servo set up on those planes). On this plane I'll be running a 2100mah LiFe pack. Hopefully I won't need to put the battery where I had it last time with my rear elevator setup. It was a pain in the butt to charge in that location. Obviously those three rods for the elevator and rudder were in the way.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, off set due to tube locations, which works out nicely as there is plenty of room for the 2100ma A123 right next to that servo.

Test flights (without cowl) to date indicate no need for additional down thrust like the original plane needed. However, when I installed the cowl, the next flight needed quite a bit of down trim. Not sure why on that, just passing it on.

Also, I did weigh the plane and it is heavier than the last one, but not by a whole bunch. Original was 9.5lbs, this one is just shy of 10lbs - confirming this is a heavier plane as I had suspected, even though it was built identical to the original.

In my experience, wing rock is primarily about wing loading. It's rocking because it's trying to stall. A lighter plane is always better, but CG can affect it too, as moving the CG back effectively removes weight from the wing and adds it to the stab and elevator - which effectively lowers the stall speed. If you want more on that holler, but it's been pretty well documented a few times already. With that wing rock, the high alpha 3D stuff is gong to be pretty dicey... Will work on that to see if I can't get do better there. It's still new, so we'll see. One of those Orange 3 axis stabilizers may be in it's future....

Dreamtime

I have (had) my CG just behind 6" and the plane flew beautifully. No thrust line changes needed. Plane dry was just under 9.5lb. DLE 20 rear elevator servos and 3800ma of Life batts just behind the main bulkhead. I use 3 bats -- 1 x ignition and 2 receiver bats for redundancy. I was really' wringing' her out as the club members were saying and having a ball with some of the finest the Revolver can offer with lovely inverted spins, blenders , hammerheads / knife edge / snap rolls etc and was having such fun that I ran out of fuel, straight into the wind which was no more than 1mph. As we know the Revolver glides on and on in these conditions and I realised that it was most unlikely I would be able to land before the end of the field. I made a snap decision to make a gentle banking turn downwind and round for a crosswind landing. She kept up speed nicely by holding the nose down but unfortunately in keeping nose down I just clipped a post supporting our shelter. The wing looks like a shark took a bite out, but on hitting the ground, she basically disintegrated. I did the aluminium angle mod to the undercarriage and glassed the motor mount/firewall. These were totally solid, confirming that this mod works very well. Otherwise the motor and electronics all fine. Unfortunately we have new customs charges here in New Zealand, and importing another Revolver will cost me $500. This is over double the US price. For now, I flew her for a year really hard, fast and loved almost every moment, and with the mods, there was never a hint of failure. She did live dangerously in my hands. PS the Robart hinges survived all manoeuvres and the crash just fine. I will keep an eye on this thread, and maybe some day will have another one. Certainly one of the finest planes I ever owned.

PS some observations of mildly negative characteristics. She will snap readily inverted unless speed is maintained -- a lot quicker than when upright. Between controls going mushy and a sudden low speed stall, she will snap to the left very suddenly (my lateral balance was perfect). Inverted spins usually result in another 1/2 to one revolution after controls are centred -- took me by surprize the first few times. This is a positive but a warning -- full rate snap rolls are very quick -- I was always waiting for a wing to depart! -- as were the club members. And the usual -- if there is little to no wind -- she just does not want to leave the sky.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I just ordered my Revolver 70. I have a Saito 125 that will fit nicely in the cowl, and I'm looking forward to getting her in the air!

Can anyone tell me, without me having to read thru 308 pages- what landing gear mods have you done, or what gear did you replace the factory gear with? It seems like there is an issue...

Dreamtime

Hi Rv7 -- look at posts 6874 and 6919 --the latter being my version of the same mod. As I pointed out above -- this mod is rock solid and easy to do. I used a piece of pre angled aluminium with the stock undercarriage bolted through this -- follow the pics in the post and you will be fine. There are other methods of course. I had dozens of landings using this system, some not so pretty, and never a problem.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Thank you! That looks perfect- simple and effective.

Are there any other issues I should be prepared to address? Any hardware that just shouldn't be used?

Thanks again

Dreamtime

This is a question asked on almost every thread, and you will get as many opinions! Some fly her bone stock and apparently successfully, but I personally like the reassurance of a plane that is going to achieve speeds over 100mph of being as safe as reasonably possible. As such I use these on all control surfaces : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXGWD8&P=K / another option:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXEMF9&P=K.
I use only ball joints for all connections: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXCJRY&P=K
I always replace my Ca hinges on all planes with these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXET55&P=K. I have had Ca hinge failures (not pulling out but splitting). Potentially not very pretty at speed especially on an elevator. So this is all optional, but your Saito will get her moving very nicely and depending on your flying style, I would certainly consider taking the time to do these mods. NB lightly glass the motor mount.
I used twin rear mounted elevators -- this is a pain to do, but needed with the heavier DLE. They do provide a very slop free linkage however. I used a carbon tube for the rudder -- light and very stiff. If using the 2/56 elevator pushrods they need some stiffening from the guide tube to the servo end -- again some carbon rod is good -- not vital, but makes for a nicer plane if doing knife edge etc. Otherwise she is good to go.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding the CA hinges? I got lazy and decided to give the ones that come pre-installed on the ailerons another try. Less than 10 flights, still getting a feel for the plane, the inside hinge on the left aileron split. It didn't pull out, it failed/broke on the hinge line, where it is flexed in use. Caught it in a pre-flight due to the snapping noise it was making.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks again for the input, guys. I will definitely be installing the Robart hinge points. I don't know if I want to go to the trouble of relocating the servos, but maybe. Also I will absolutely be using the aluminum angle mod for the LG! All I want is a fun-to-fly, trouble-free airplane

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Well.

Day one of assembly, and I'm already severely disappointed. The front alignment pin on the left wing is installed so poorly that I simply can't get the wing to mate with the fuselage correctly. I tried tweaking it, but it won't budge; any more force and I'm afraid I'll break the root rib.

Called Tower, they sent me to Hobby Services. Spent 1/2 hour on hold with them only to find that there's at least a 6-week lead time for them to get a replacement wing in stock. I told them that was unacceptable, and so they sent me back to Tower... who finally offered to allow me to return the bloody thing for a credit- not a refund. WTeffingH. So here I am, stuck with this crappy ARF (lesson FINALLY learned! Never again), which won't fly and no one is taking responsibility for.

To say that I'm disappointed in Great Planes -- and even more so with Tower Hobbies -- is a gross understatement!


Revolver 70 - what a piece of Chinese junk.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Not really an insurmountable task you're talking about here. Slide the mating parts together again, identify where the interference is (without forcing the parts), and carefully trim as required for clearance with a #11 Xacto knife.

My locating holes had to have the monocote removed from them due to a bad trim job. Took seconds to fix, literally...

Dreamtime

+1 regarding the last statement. My front alignment pin was also slightly out (I wonder if it is a build jig problem), it took less than a minute with a knife and sandpaper to get a perfect fit (slop free as well). As I am searching for a new plane similar in size to the Revolver, I am beginning to realise what a bargain it is. Sure, companies like Aeroworks and 3DHS are in a different league as regards quality and build weight, but you pay big time for this -- a similar size plane from them goes for $430, compared to $190 for the Revolver after discounts (and don't forget postage much higher with them). We have an Aeroworks plane in our club, and he does not have any more fun than I did with the Revolver. The plane does fly lighter, but is no more impressive or fun for this. The thing about the Revolver is that ailerons and wing mating surfaces are not true, but it flies really well. My thinking has been to try a different plane, but may just have to get another Revolver. I would hang in there Rv7.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Well I put in an epic day and got it all assembled. Couple'a details left (got some screws to Loctite, and need to calibrate the control surfaces), but it's pretty much ready to balance and maiden. I managed to hack the wing pins well enough to make it fit (still not happy about that). I really want to find some unique decals for this plane.

Otherwise, heres hoping that it flies well. I want to give that Saito a happy home lol

THEJADEGROUP

Has anyone inverted a Saito engine in the Revolver 70?

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I'm just finishing my third revolver and went with some different stickers on this one. See post 7669 on the previous page.

On my first plane I didn't use any of the stickers that came with the plane because I think the Revolver stickers are ugly. I did order some custom tail numbers though. It looked clean and I liked having a different tail number. On the second one I didn't have any stickers at all. I still think it looked better with none rather than what comes in the kit.

If I could go back, I would have used the same decals on the wings as I have on the belly. I don't really like the checkers and "racing" part of the decal. But I think it still looks cool...

Jeremy

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Dreamtime, since you were running rear servos like I am, I've got some questions. Sounds like you also had a lot of deflection, as I'm trying to. So, everything is good except when I get near full deflection. I'm using ball links to eliminate any binding, but I just noticed that the servo arm is being twisted, and the servos growl a little while at neutral (they stop when I lightly touch the surface). It does it more when it's pushing the elevator up, but it still does it a little when it's pulling them down. Again, it's only when it gets close to 45°.

I'm thinking the problem is due to the taper of the fuse. So maybe I need to put a piece of wood under the rear of the servo to make it more in line with the push rod?

What do you guys think?

I'm curious to see where my cg comes out. By hearing how much battery weight you had, I'm guessing I'm going to need to put my one battery on top of the engine box. I'm running one 2100mah LiFe battery for everything. I want to keep this plane light (my last one was almost 11 pounds because of the smoke system and it still flew great). I used the same battery on my Edge with all digital servos. I don't do a bunch of flights when I go out. 4-5 flights is the max I'll do. Also, because I put the two servos in the rear I went ahead and put the throttle servo inside the engine box (a Hitec 225BB mighty mini that is very light). I really like it there because it gives a real nice short connection.

Some of you may notice the different tail wheel. It's an aeroworks assembly. I think it was like $15. They have carbon fiber too, but being twice as much I don't think it's worth it. They aren't that much lighter anyway. In my opinion, aeroworks makes the best tail wheels around.

Jeremy

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I wouldn't worry about servo growl with the control surface it's controlling at 45 degrees. In use, it's not going to be at 45 degrees long, or often....

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Jeremy, I like the Amsoil stickers a lot. I have to find a source for those!