Mr67Stang

Pryor808, keep the detailed pictures comming. I will need to do the same thing this week on mine. I may do it differently but I'm not to proud to copy a good idea either

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Mrstang67,

My name is Paul Pryor my friends call me Paulie. I post my pictures to help others out. If I am posting an idea and, you like it! by all means use it, copy it or take the idea and, make it better. I might learn from it. That's what this hobby is all about. By the way, one of my favorite cars is the Ford Mustang Fastback with the 289 4 speed manual.

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks,

I had the cradels laying around from a tote box. I went ahead and, built a stand out of it. I use it to biuld on and, take it to the field. When I do take it to the field, it's like everyones plane holder. if you know what I mean!!

Slow and Steady

Paul, It looks like a great build cradle; much better than foam blocks. Good luck with the rear servo mount; I will likely do the same if I go from the current 75 AX to gas. Just changed my Funtana 125 to gas from a 120 AX and the difference is phenominal. Take care,

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

widget i would stay with the 13x8 prop. you might get more speed out of the 12x10 in a dive but on the level the 13x8 is best. I have testy alot of props on my smaller revo with the 120AX and most props gave close to same speed or with in 10mph. the big thing was the take off and climb offered by the larger Dia. props. I even ran a 11x14 APC on the 120 and didnt gain anything. the best props on the 120 were in the 13x11 - 14x12N props.

For your ailerons i wouldnt do the flaps at all. just center up the control horn on the aileron and then shorted up on each side of control surface. what this does is offer the least twisting on the surface where the control horn is located. If leave the servo in stock location and cut most of the inboard aileron off then could induce some twist while operating the aileron, which could lead to flutter. The aileron part you cut off just glue to back of wing with two fiber hinges and then fill gaps with soft balsa and sand flush. I also forgot to add. need to make the trailing edges as sharp as you can (how you do this is up to you i wont give away all secrets). Recover and all done.


For all not sealing gaps YOU SHOULD BE ON ANY PLANE. Yes the plane may never have flutter or anything but it wil fly better, it will provide protection if hinge fails, the plane will be faster ever so slightly at lower speeds but once getting over 120 it helps, and just looks better.

Mr67Stang

I finally got my pull/pull rudder set up. I updated my post #751 at the top of page 31 with two pictures and some text so people can see the whole process in one post on one page. Next... I need to relocate the elevator servos to the rear[&o]

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

Airraptor: I sure appreciate the advice. I didn't understand your mod on the ailerons before, but I get it now. And yeah. I had already decided that flaps were not needed on the Reactor. And so, 13 X 8 on the 91FX it is! Got it. I hate wasting money on a box full of props that will never get used again. Per the 120AX, you are saying that I should start with a 14X10 APC instead of a 15X10 ? I'll try both eventually and let you know, but I'll start with the 14X10 and see how I like it.
I'm not sure what pryor808 meant about bashing and my need for slow landing planes, as they fly well in the manner I build them for, or why bash them in the first place?. But I do need lots of take-off power as well, for my country-run-way is a total of only about 300' of usable packed dirt, one end to the other. It's almost like Carrier take-offs and landings everytime.[:@] I need really slow to land, really poweful to take off, and really fast to enjoy.... Tough combination.. [8D] Because my 2 acre pond is all along one side the run-way, Carrier T/O's and landings are quite realistic!

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Widget,

I am with ya with the slow landing planes. What I was responding to was that you wrote "Widget is ma name and Bashin' is ma game...."
and, I had replied to it. Do not misunderstand me! we were just having fun .

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Widget - with only 300 ft of hard runway to land that souped up 59" on you may need flaps after all. Or a few arresting cables. Personally, I use grass.

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Covered my damage. Hey! flying the plane is my game, Not covering the darn thing. Next will be the pull-pull set up.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Looks good - nice job.

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Microdon2,

Thanks! here are some pictures of my other project that I have posted on Flying Giants. I am building this 30% at my friends bachlor pad. It's close to 15 miles away.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Looks beautiful. What's the wingspan and what engine are you using?

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

89.5" WS. DLE55 and, only 16LBS. It's a missle with wings. I hope!!!!

pryor808

My Feedback: (1)

Well microdon2,

You made me do it. I will be using Robarts for the Elevaror and Rudder. All yor fault !!!

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Well, I can't claim expertise on the Robart hinges, as this is my first time, but I've heard plenty of recommendations. btw - I put 5 in each elevator and 5 in the rudder (just to be safe). Also applied monokote to the underside of the elevator gap tonight. Might do that for the ailerons, too. Almost done building my Rev 70 with the engine \ receiver \ servos from the old - now extinct - Rev 70. Only things left to do are cut out the cowling holes and epoxy in the Watchmeter and pilot into the cockpit. Not sure if I'm going to apply decals just yet - may want to check it out sans decals first. Would LOVE to fly tomorrow morning (4mph NW), but the grass field will probably be SOAKED from the heavy thunderstorms that passed through here this afternoon. I blame global warming for this.

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

Edge looks good Pryor. I flew mine again tonight with a new Xoar 23x8. Spinning it at 6700 (22x8 was 7200) but it's so humid from all the rain the past week that I couldn't even see into my canopy! lol. I'm sure I'll be able to turn 6800 when it dries up a bit. I also moved my 2x 2300 a123 RX packs up into the motor box as I was still tail heavy after all these flights on 'er. MUCH better now. Not so twitchy and I can actually fly the thing like it's supposed to lol. Be sure to put up a vid when you finish! Also consider swapping out the tank with the DLE-55. I was only getting 8 minute flights with maybe 1/5th left. I swapped in a 24oz tank and am now getting 15min flights. Much better for IMAC practice! These are old pics and a few things have been shuffled around, ZEUS tossed, etc, but you get the general idea!

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

Is there not an edge thread or did they make a revolver that is red and yellow.

wjcalhoun

Agree Slats!
Not sure how this thread evolved into a discussion of gas Edges

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I have used Robarts on many occasions. The rule of thumb is you generally just have to put them in the same place as the existing hinges (in this case I believe it was 3 on each elevator). Even though they are thinner they are extremely strong you don't need to add more, 5 is way overkill but its personal preference.

Use Gorilla glue as it expands (foams) and fills the hole, it actually will expand through the end of the hole (if its not completly solid wood) and lock the hinge in place which epoxy won't. I think its 100xs better than epoxy but I am sure everyone has a preference. Never had a failure or binding issue and with the drill guide they sell its very easy.

Here is a great video on it. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=269

I am building another Revolver and I think I may even put them in the wings although it may be a PINA...

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

Are you guys just using the monokote for the hinge gap on just the bottom of the control surface?? Have never done this before but will give it a shot on this one. Going with the 120 OS AX, Pitts muffler should be here tommorow...

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Slats - I just applied metallic blue (same color as the plane) monokote to the underside of the elevators, as someone here said to apply to the side that sees more nitro residue. Also makes it easier, as the underside is a solid blue field, where the top is multi-colored and stripped (though if you used clear this would not matter). I may order a roll of clear. I like your idea of using Monster glue to fill the void - think I'll do that next time.

wjcalhoun

Hi Slats!
I used clear monokote on the underside of all my hinge gaps; metallic blue would be fine also. I am definitely a fan of Robarts hinges as well.

How is your CG working out? I have the same engine, and am using a Bisson Pitts muffler; 2 elev, 1 rudder servo in the servo tray, switch and radio aft of the wing tube, and still my CG is 3/4" ahead of where it should be. I'll install a Sullivan tail wheel which will hold up better, and add an ounce or so way aft, but am likely to have my battery tray way aft also - near the stab.

Did you mount servos aft on the sides of the fuse? That would be another way to get some weight aft.

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I am just be starting to build the one with the OS 120. How do you like it with that engine/muffler combo is it pretty insane. I have one with a Saito 1.0 on it and love the plane but want a little more. Yes I was the guy earlier laughing at people for putting massive engines in it LOL.

From that build I can tell you this one (like you know) will be way nose heavy. I am guessing with the OS set up I am going to have about 5 - 6 OZ min more weight up front. The saito made it nose heavy and I had to put the battery way back in the fuse. I am preparing for this and I am going back and forth about putting the rudder servo in the back. I am thinking this maybe the only way or I will have to add a tonn of weight.

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

So with the monokote for the hinge gap I imagine all you do is fully extend the control surface and add a strip on it?? Anything I should know or is it a pretty standard thing.. Thanks