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Old 07-17-2003 | 03:35 AM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

Hello,

I'm just starting to put together a Lanier Stinger 60 ARF. I've done a bit of reading about it in the forums, and I see that it tends to come out nose heavy.

I'm over powering it with a YS 91, so I'm expecting it to come out even more nose heavy than usual. Instead of adding lead to balance it out, I'm planning on installing dual elevator servos and putting them in the tail. I'll probably go with a pull-pull rudder servo in the stock servo tray.

Looking at the fuse tonight, I noticed two things: First, it's very narrow - too narrow to install the servos directly opposite each other in the side of the fuse. I'm thinking that the best thing to do is to install one higher than the other (and on opposite sides of the fuse), so that they can be the same distance from the elevator. The higher one will have the control horn down from the servo hub, and the lower one will have the control horn up from the servo hub. This should make the pushrods pretty even.

The thing I haven't thought through is how to build in servo trays. The fuse has a bunch of cut-outs, so there's no solid sheet of balsa on which to install the trays. I suppose that some a few people have already installed rear servos, so I'm interested in ideas (and maybe photos) about a good way to do it.

Finally, I'd like to install the fuel tank on the CG. The stock tank is too tall to fit under the wing. Does anyone have a suggestion about which tank to use that will fit and deal with the YS pressure? I'd like to get at least 12oz if possible.

I'm really impressed with this ARF. The build quality looks good, the covering is perfect, and the fit of parts is better than most ARFs I've put together. It's going to be a pretty quick project.

Thanks for any suggestions,
-Wade
Old 07-17-2003 | 03:59 AM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

The elevator setup should be ok. It has the advantage that one of the servos does not need to be reversed. But it may be difficult to get identical throws.

I have the giant one so 2 servos are easier. You might go with a couple of Hitec 225BB servos. They are small enough to fit side-2-side. Or look at a low-profile aileron servo. I was dubious about using the 225's due to their size. But then I saw several pylon racers use them for everything on their "guided missles". I used them with a .91 on my Extra and they outlived the plane.

As the tail is tapered, the servos will not be inline with the horns. I added a 1/8" piece of ply to raise the back end of the servo up. Then the top of the servo is inline with the elevator horn. I also glued a small 1/8" piece of ply inside on the other end of the servo. so both sides have 1/4" ply to screw into.

If there is a lightening hole there, cut a piece of ply to fill the area of the "hole" and ca in place. Cut the servo opening then add a ply doubler behind to add strength to the seam.

All stingers are weak just behind F2. They will break at the front of the wing saddle. There is a small doubler that stops at F2. The plane will split between the doubler and f2. Some have made the doubler extend past F2.

I added 1/2" tri-stock epoxied to f2. Then covered the doubler-F2 joint with fiberglass/epoxy.

I had the .40 and have the Giant Stinger. Both are fun to fly.
Old 07-17-2003 | 04:42 AM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

Thanks for the tip on F2. I just took a look at it, and I see exactly what you mean.

Also, filling in the cut-outs with ply sounds like it'll work great.

As for the 225BB servos, I'm not sure that they'll help a whole lot. I just looked at the specs, and they are .91 inches deep. I measured the width of the fuse, and I have to go fully halfway from the back end of the fuse to the trailing edge of the wing before it gets 2 inches wide. I was hoping to put the servos just ahead of, if not under, the stab. It's just really narrow back there.

Thanks again,
-Wade
Old 07-17-2003 | 11:15 AM
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Default Stinger 60

If you'll do a search on the Stinger 60 ARF, you'll find a couple of nice threads on putting the servos in the rear. One installation used the belcrank from centralhobbies.com, the one that runs through the fuselage and hooks to both elevators individually. This thread has lots of photos on the installation.
Old 07-17-2003 | 12:12 PM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

Hi Ed,

I've seen the long thread with the bellcrank solution.

I was thinking of doing a dual servo solution for two reasons. First, I have lots of servos available. And, second, I think I'm going to want two servos back there for weight distribution.

Now that I've actually started measuring things, it looks like I need to reconsider the bellcrank. If I do this, I'll probably end up pushing the battery and receiver back a ways to try and get it to balance (I'm still assuming that it's going to end up nose heavy.)

Thanks,
-Wade
Old 07-17-2003 | 12:24 PM
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Default Stinger Mod

Wade, I have the Stinger 60 ARF and I installed all components for the most part as per instructions. The only difference was installing the battery about 3 inches behind the servo tray and adding about 6.5 ounces in the tail section behind the battery. That was my biggest problem. I have a Super Tiger 90 with a pitts muffler. CG is at 4 3/8" from the leading edge. She flys nice....real nice. Good luck in whatever you decide.

Quazar
Old 07-17-2003 | 12:36 PM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

I also forgot to mention that with all the weight I used it still weighs less than 8lbs.

Good flying........Quazar
Old 07-17-2003 | 07:15 PM
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Default Re: Stinger Mod

Originally posted by quazar
Wade, I have the Stinger 60 ARF and I installed all components for the most part as per instructions. The only difference was installing the battery about 3 inches behind the servo tray and adding about 6.5 ounces in the tail section behind the battery. That was my biggest problem. I have a Super Tiger 90 with a pitts muffler. CG is at 4 3/8" from the leading edge. She flys nice....real nice. Good luck in whatever you decide.

Quazar
Hi Quazar,

It's that 6.5 ounces that I'm trying to avoid by pushing the servos back as far as possible. That's a whole lot of dead weight.

Thanks,
-Wade

PS: What engine/muffler did you use? I'm going to use the YS91AC and a Slimline pitts muffler, and I'm curious how that compares to the engine you used to get that balance.
Old 07-17-2003 | 08:48 PM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

FWIW, on my Stinger 60 ARF I have an OS 91FS up front and the elevator and rudder servos in the rear of the fuselage, one above the other, with an elevator bellcrank (from Central Hobbies). To mount the servos I simply opened up the rear section and put a 1/8" ply plate in on each side for a servo mount, and flushed the surface out smooth with some thin balsa sheet. I glued a velcro strip to the fuselage bottom behind the servo tray, and velcro my battery pack to that to establish the balance I wish; I am moving it back incremently with the objective of minimum down elevator inverted. I have no added lead on the airplane (just in my head).
Old 07-21-2003 | 09:44 AM
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Default Stinger 60 Modifications

hey Wade, I'm using a Super Tigre 90 with a pitts muffler. Even with the added weight in the back I still get awesome vertical. Its still floats at low throttle and stings at high. No matter how you set it up you'll love it

Quazar

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