AA5BY

A 20 cc adequately powers the plane. If you go 30cc, I'd be interested to know how that works out regarding balance and power.

Gary in Fla

Thanks for the feedback Rowdyjoe... Did you remove the mounts for the servos?

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Gary,
You need to address your question to AA5BY. I'm not at that stage of assembly on mine and haven't been confronted with that decision yet. If mine is nose heavy with them installed I'll remove them before I add weight to the tail.

RJ

Gary in Fla

Thanks RJ, I'll send this to AA5BY.I have some questions about a few things, regarding the mounting of the RCGF 20; I would like to get the engine mounted correctly on the centerline. Did you guys just drop the engine in the center of the cowl and drill the holes for the mount? Does the supplied fuel tank do well with gas or should I get another tank? I understand the reasons for moving the servos back due to the interferance with the ignition system good idea there. What size wheels are being used? I haven't started anything as yet but I'm trying to put all my parts together.

Thanks
Gary

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Gary,
My engine doesn't mount like yours. I have a Zenoah G20EI that uses mounting studs, not a glow style beam mount. Your installation will be a bit more involved than just fastening the mount and installing the engine. If I were mounting an engine like yours, here's how I would do it ...
Trial fit the cowl and measure from the engine mount area to the outside edge of the cowl. Add about 1/4" or so to ensure the prop adapter clears the cowl. That distance will determine where to drill the beam mount to position the engine correctly. Measure, mark and drill the mount and then mount the engine. Using clear flexible plastic sheeting, make a drill hole template for the mount and find the center of it. Match the center of the template with the center marks on the firewall and tape the template in place. Mark the hole locations, remove the template and drill the mounting holes. If the servo mounting box gets in the way of the mount, remove it and anything else that interferes. REMEMBER ....MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. Looking at page 17 of the manual, the distance given calculates to 6 1/4 inches from the outer part of the firewall but, you will need the distance from the plate deeper inside where the mount bolts on. Obviously, the pre-drilled holes will not be useable for your installation.
The gas tank will work fine but, the cork/stopper and fuel line will not. You will need to buy a stopper/cork and fuel line (tygon) that is compatible with gas. Your LHS should carry the kit. If not, you can order it on-line. You cannot use nitro/glow fuel line with gasoline as it will erode it very quickly.
My advice is to read through this thread carefully to see if anyone has done a beam mount gas engine installation with this airplane. If so, you need to ask them how they did it.

RJ

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

excellent !

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Hello (hello, hello, hello, helloooo) ....must be an echo in here. I think this place is empty.
Anyway. I finally made a decision on which retracts to install in my Texan. I wanted the HK units with the 10mm mounting post/hole but, the stock oleo struts are out of stock and I can't get an answer from Horizon about when they will be in stock. So, I ordered the .120 size HK retracts which are advertised to support planes up to 15 lbs. They should be adequate for the AT6 with the G20.
I fear that Horizon/Seagull is about to discontinue this bird. They have reduced the price and have yet to re-stock the LG. That's usually a bad sign for continuing a model's production. Guess I'd better grab a few spare parts before "the end".

Garry

Kostas1

Garry,
could you please post some pics of the retracts once you receive them?

Garry

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

I'll try to remember to do that. They are approx. 1/4" shorter than the stock gear and I'm a bit concerned about that. I have my fingers crossed that they will work.

RJ

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

I received the Turnigy retracts about 3 weeks ago and I didn't get around to installing them for about 2 weeks. Modification of the gear pockets in the center section of the wing was necessary and took about 2 hours of "trial and fit" before I got it right. Once installed however, they failed to work. There were no instructions in the package but there is nothing difficult about plugging in a Y cable between the units and a receiver. I used a 2 cell LIPO for the test but, evidently that was too much power (8.4v). They cycled wildly until they stopped working. I saw no smoke nor did they heat up even the smallest amount but, they quit working and now only make click when activated.
So, I ordered another set from Sonic RC made by RC Lander. They were almost twice the cost (including struts and wheels) and I have high hope they will work. When I test this new set I'll be using a voltage regulator (a stand-alone BEC) set for approx. 5v ...unless the manual (if there is one) states that they will take more voltage or are at least protected against high voltage. More later after installation and testing.

Garry

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Time to revive an old thread...

Aftere months of tinkering i finally got a chance to maiden the AT6. Overall I am very happy with this bird and it looks nice in the air with my lights. The flying characteristics are good, but watch out she will stall on you in a second; my first flight i stalled her twice and still got it down in one piece . On my third and final flight i had a bad bounce on the landing and broke loose one of the gear blocks and cracked a prop grrr. Excuse the wiring mess in my pics but i was running out of room in the fuse to put stuff. Iam running a 16x8 with my DLE20 and it has more than enough power for loops and uplines for my wingovers...

Scott