jimmymac52

My Feedback: (4)

My first thought was also to drill the holes closer inboard until I realized that in that location, the hole misses the triple ply wing rib which is the structural support for the bolt and tube. I found a thick wall aluminum tube approx 5' long at a local hydraulic supply shop (under $10). The O.D. was a few thousandths of an inch larger than the tube cavity and had to be hand sanded. Man, what a job that was...... but now I have a stronger wing tube that spans the entire cavity. The bolts penetrate the tube about 1/4" in from the tip.

Did you finish your repairs? Are you up and running yet?

AA5BY

I appreciate the heads up on the wing tube screws and other than picking up the 36" section hadn't done anything on moving those holes yet. I wasn't aware that moving in 1/2 inch would be so critical. I'll probe the holes and confirm what you are saying... thanks again, you probably saved me some grief.

The re-sheeting of the center wing section is complete and ready for filling and sanding what little of it that there is. The wing tips are exposed and as expected the damage there is fairly light and shouldn't be difficult and is on the agenda after an afternoon nap. Thursday afternoons are also a fly day for the local fossil flyers but its rainy so that isn't happening.

Addendum: A look inside the wing from the joiner rib opening does show an extra rib. And, a 90 degree bend awl reveals restrictions on both sides of the top side hole but none on the bottom side though the wood is thicker there than just the sheeting so there is likely a flat cross piece between ribs. At any rate, I think you are right... that is where the hole needs to stay.

I've a short section of the same 3/4 aluminum from Lowes left over from a sail boat project and it shouldn't be too much effort to braze an additional inch onto the 36" tube. I've aluminum brazing rod on hand so think that will work and I've a metal lathe so can be certain the ends are true prior to brazing and that the shaft is straight afterward.

AA5BY

Wing tube extension completed... wasn't a hard project and it passed a strength test so I'm confident it will be fine.

AA5BY

During the repairs on my AT-6, one of the issues was some loosening of the holes for the bolts that secure the outboard wing sections and thought that the repair was simple and easy and possibly of help to others.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10865042

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi,

Does anybody think this new gas 4 stroke from saito would work for this bird ?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ine-at-SAIEG30

I was also considering a DLE 30 ?

Was the reason you guys some people moved there servos to the fuesalage due to vibration from the motor or not enough room up front ?


Thanks Scott

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

flys well on a 120 2-stroker so I don't see why a 30 wouldn't do just fine!

AA5BY

I moved the servos because the plane was nose heavy with the Zenoah G-20. While normally a gas installation avoids flight control electronics in close proximity to the ignition, I was willing to give it a chance to pass a range test with the servos up front but didn't get that far due to being too heavy in the nose.

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

SyssaPilot u have any pics of how much you had to cutout for the DLE20?

The DLE seems smaller in dimension than the Zenoah but Iam not positive.



Scott

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

I seen were someone previously posted that some of the sheeting on this plane was very thin. Has anyone thought of reinforcing some of the key areas were you personally handle the plane to prevent accidental damage?

I just know personally myself that I would probably punch of hole through the side of this plane !



Thanks Scott

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

I see most people on here are using Hitec Servos,

Jimmymac52 how is the respsonse and roll rate with your HS485's

SyssaPilot I think I seen you have the Hitec 5625's

Iam just looking to see which of these setups are better for your alieron rolls and I love to do Hammerheads. Are you guys using these servos all around. Iam not sure how much expo or what rates you are using with your radios so that makes a difference. I do not need something that is way overkill just a servo that a pretty fast response. What are your guys thoughts ?

SyssaPilot what kind of reinforecment did you make to your firewall for the DLE20 ?

Scott

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Has anybody put a scale lighting system in their AT6 Texan ?

Details4scale has a really nice system that includes a landing light with a controller and everything else needed

http://details4scale.com/

Electordam also makes lighting system that will work also

http://www.electrodynam.com/store/product71.html


I am not planning in competing in scale events with my bird but would like that extra detail of the lights. Also plan on cutting the canopy in half so it appears the canopy is open and not closed for pilots. Anybody have any ideas ?


Scott

WI53072

Anybody still flying this plane? I obtained one this past year and want to convert it to gas. I have a DLE 30 sitting around, I wonder if that is too much motor for this plane? Is there any 30cc size T-6's being kitted or sold as ARFS these days? Seems that would be a popular size T6 IMHO.

Paul

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I still have mine, but was thinking along the lines of a DLE 20...I wonder how well it would fit the firewall - your thoughts?

PS I have a NIB Fuselage and tail feathers if anyone is interested....

WI53072

Presently, I am thinking of selling my Seagull T6 which is NIB and start looking for a T6 in the 30cc size if one even exists?

Paul

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Too bad because it came out real nice and flies great!

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

It may take a bit of reinforcement here and there but I can't think of any reason why this bird would not be a good candidate for a 30cc gasser. As far as size goes I would say it is nearly perfect. Many guys used 26-38cc engines in the Midwest kit which was basically identical in size, albeit built a bit sturdier and heavier. My .02 cents of course.

WI53072

Chad/Tailskid,

I spent the evening researching and ran across the Midwest T6 and noted it was powered with a variety of gas engines. I also noted that the Midwest kit and the Seagull kit are about the same size. It seems the Midwest kit ran tail heavy and I suppose that is going to be the same with the Seagull given that all of the servo's except the throttle servo are located on the firewall. I would have to modify the firewall and be sure to install nothing aft of the CG. I see several different mods for the Seagull T6 that are set up for gas. I may just hang onto this kit after-all. I have heard the Eflite electric retracts work nicely on this plane, any thoughts on the eflite retracts?

Paul

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I'm using them (E-Flite) and they haven't let me down.....mine came out right on the CG with an Evolution 125 up front! Chad, by the way, made the DME dome on mine and I see he added it to his (ha ha).....

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

How is everybody transporting this plane, Are you guys taking the center section off of the plane and leaving the wing in one piece or are you just taking the wing apart off every time ?

I was curious to this as I was thinking about leaving the wing in one piece all the time, but I am having a hard time finding a wing bag long enought at 83".

Thanks Scott

AA5BY

If leaving the center section on... a cradle is not needed. I hate mounting a long low wing and then having to turn it over so I leave the center section fitted and simply mount the outer wing panels for setup at the field. In fact, I've now gotten to the point that if a model requires a field cradle... it gets nixed as a choice.

Installing the wing panels can be made slightly easier by using sections of nyrod to make guides for the wing bolts and replace the wing bolts with a size that will take a plastic lock nut. I did that by installing the nyrod, can't remember which color now but it was the one that was close to the fit of the bolts that were chosen to use. First, mask off the area with wide masking tape, drill a tight fit hole through all for the nyrod, insert the nyrod so that it sticks out both sides and then flush cut with a multi cut off tool. Finally, make a cut off tool from spare tubing and file teeth on the end and insert into tube and slowly rotate and cut off the piece in the tube.

The mounting bolts locations are now much easier to use and are more durable.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

You can make the wing in three configurations: one piece, two pieces or three! If space is a problem, I'd just remove one of the outer wing panels.

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

I understand what you are saying about making the cutoff tool out of nyrod. But when say drill a hole through all are u meaning the top and bottom of the wing or just one side ?
Also I am still confused about how to access the plastic nut you are talking about, if it is clear towards the end of the wing tube how do you get to it?

Sorry for the confusion!
Iam highly considering keeping my wing in one piece and expoying it together just for simplicity

Scott

AA5BY

Sorry for the confusion... the cut off tool I made is a spare piece of aluminum the same diameter as the wing tube. I simply filed some teeth on the edge so that when inserting into the wing tube it would cut the nyrod piece that extended from the top of wing surface to bottom wing surface. Just a method that allowed putting one piece of nyrod through the wing and then cutting out the area within the wing tube receiver.

Yes, I drilled a hole through the wing inline with the wing receiver tube per the instructions. This I later enlarged slightly to fit a nyrod so as to make inserting the bolt through the wing easier.

Not a plastic nut... a locking nut having a nylon insert otherwise the supplied bolts will need some method of securing the nut such as a hole and safety wire or loctite if you choose to make the wing a one piece.

If you so choose, you will need a cradle to transport the plane and set up at the field. That may be no problem. For me, flipping a large plane over for setup and the necessity of dragging a cradle to the field is something to be avoided when possible.

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

I have a few more questions that popped into my head First how is everybody mounting their switches, is everybody doing it as per the manaul in the fuse ? Do you guys have any pics of your switches mounted as I am kind of unsure of what method to use for a pushrod to exit out of the fuse. To me it seems there is a better way to do this as to now make the switch so obvious.

Also for those of you that are using gas motors did you guys stick with the included CA hinges or did you switich to something like robart hinges ?

Thanks Scott

jimmymac52

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Scott,
Here is how I installed my switches. I wanted them to be discreet so I used short lengths of 2-56 rod with a clevis on one end and 1/4" furniture buttons painted gray on the other end. The rod extends through a small fuel line that I inserted and glued into the side of the fuse (vibration damper). If you use the furniture buttons, you will need to drill the center of it, and after threading the button end of the rod, screw it into the button with epoxy. Buttons can be purchased at any craft store. As you can see, I had to build-up a switch mount on top of the servo tray area for this to work out right.