RE: Hinge update
 

Replaced the rudder CA hinges in the Pitts rudder tonight with 6 Klett Flexpoint hinges. My good friend Chuck helped me with the installation since I had not used these before and he has used them for years. Really like how easily they installed. Used large hinges in case anyone is interested. Had to snip small portion off the end of each hinge to avoid going through the wood. Used think ZAP CA to hold. Very easy installation and solid as a rock. With six in place I shouldn't have this problem again. Going to replace the elevator hinges next. Still thinking about the aileron hinges. Probably will replace those as well while I am at it.

RE: Hinge update
 

Roger,

I took your advice from your thread on the Pitts and ordered my DA standoffs from aerografixs. Really responsive. They will be shipping tomorrow. I'm starting to get this bird finished and it is coming along nice. I can't wait to get her in the air.

RE: Hinge update
 

Brian, what size standoffs did you oder ? Also the 2 3/4" ?

Anybody replacing the spinner ?

RE: Hinge update
 

Ulf,

I ordered 2 3/4" in red. 5mm from engine to standoffs and 1/4 *20 from firewall to back of standoffss. As far as the spinner goes mine fits my Menz 22x8 so I figure I will keep it on.

RE: Hinge update
 

Ulf,

Man you weren't kidding when you said .
I needed 3 hands to get this job done[>:]. I mounted the engine with stock standoffs since the ones I ordered didn't ship until today. Now I need to go and fix the cabane's as I have to re-drill at least one hole to make them line up.

RE: Hinge update
 

Hoss, The directions for the Pitts stated that you should put the two machine screws in the holes at the top of the Cabane struts and then position over the pre-tapped holes. Don't tighten just make them snug. This way you won't get the alignment wrong when using the pre-tapped holes. The holes are simply a positioning point. If you mount the cabanes joined together, this will guide the wood screws in place as you finish tapping the holes with the larger screws. I started each screw and then turned a few turns and then went to the next screw. Did the same until I had them in place. This helps to avoid getting the alignment off. Check the directions for the CE. I would think G.P. would list this direction point as well for the CE. If the holes are way off then of course this won't help. I did this wrong on Pitts-1 and had to plug one of the holes with a dowel pin and epoxy and then re-tapped with a new hole. Always something.

Texas-3D - I was fortunate to have someone recommend Aerografixs to me as well. Roger is a really great guy and he does beautiful work. I'm confident you will be pleased. I used a True Turn with the DA 50 and had them cut the spinner back plate for the four mounting bolts. They also cut the slots to match the Menz 22 8 prop. I have read where guys do this on their own, but for the minimal charge it sure seemed worth it to have True Turn do this for me.

RE: Hinge update
 

well, my standoffs (red) just came in. ;) Yep, I had paid the extra $24 Fedex delivery fee. I know it is insane, but I need to finish this project since my Carden 35% Cap is waiting too be finished too. The standoffs look great. Will mount them tomorrow evening.
OK, what is the big deal with the struts and cabane struts ? I have not done this step yet on my Eagle, so not really sure what problem there is. I know there are some new brackets with a note supplied in the kit.
Is anybody using Robart hinge points with the Eagle ? I put some on my elevator half's and rudder, and they seem to hold fine. Hope there is enough wood (about 1/2!QUOT! ) so the hinge points grab right. I guess this shouldn't be a problem. I did use the CA hinges on the ailerons, but am scared now about reading so much stuff with those braking on the Pitts. Might therefore re-hinge the ailerons too.
How did your guys cowl align. Mine aligns well on one side, but the other is slightly off. Oh well, I guess I can live with that. Will use BVM Aeropoxy for gluing the cowl to the cowlring. I just don't trust epoxy on fiberglass. It comes off to easy. I also used Aeropoxy for the wheelpants.
Anybody using the supplied fuel tank ? I switched mine out for a 20oz Dubro tank. The same size I will use for the smoke (TME system). Anybody else using smoke with the Eagle ?

RE: Hinge update
 

You bet I'm using smoke for my Eagle! :D I have a TME system waiting to go in. I used medium Robart hinge points on my ailerons (waiting to put the tail feathers on) and they hold very well. For the cowl I am planning on using epoxy mixed with microballons and reinforced with CA. It worked very well on my Composite-ARF so I'm not expecting any difficulties with the GP cowl. I did use that combo on the plywood braces on my wheel pants and it seems to be very strong. Looking forward to getting the plane in the air!

RE: Hinge update
 

I didn't even think about having my standoffs Fed X'd[&o]. I wish I would have since I'm waiting. Ulf what note are you talking about on Cabane struts? I'm either stupid or missing it. I just figured I would align everything like Flyfalcon suggested. I have gap sealed the ailerons along with using the dubro 1/4 scale nylon hinges on all surfaces. I will gap seal the tail feathers after the plane is done as I'm waiting to mount the elevators and rudder.

RE: Hinge update
 

There where two little brackets a nd a note in the kit. I think these are the cabane brackets. You can also go to the Great Planes website and check out the technical bulletin about it. It's the same thing.

Where did Ryan (flyfalcons) explain about on how to allign the wing ? This is the part that scares me the most [X(] . Getting the wing right I mean not Ryan explaining LOL ;).

RE: Hinge update
 

I will do a double take for the brackets and the note.

It scares me to.:eek:

RE: GP <span class=
 

Well, I have one, have it completed, you can say what you want, I was not that impressed with the ARF. Problems #1- NONE of the wing brackets fit the predrilled holes, Placed all mine on the fus and wing just to have to remove them, redrill new holes and patch to old ones to make the wings fit. #2- The engine mount system they enginered is CRAP. I ended up cutting the bottom of the box out in order to get the blindnuts installed. #3-ALL, every single one, of the sharp tips on the monicoat were waving in the wind after the first flight. Be sure you iron them down before you fly it. #4- I installed a Brison 3.2, 52cc and the plane balanced perfect without the batteries, I needed to place the batteries (3 of them) on the center line of the CG. no place to mount them, no room to get your hand in there to make a box or rubber band mounting system. Interior space although it appears large is limited as to where you can place items.. #5- wheel pants, well what can I say? GP still has work to do there. #6- FOAM WHEELS ? come on GP. A giant scale with Foam wheels, they flat spotted the first night. and during transport, had to stand the plane on its' nose for over an hour at the field before it would roll.
NOW- Flight line appeal----------A1
WOW factor----------------A1
Cost value -----------------Great
Flight Performance--------A1 NOTE- watch your rates, make SURE you go by the Manf. suggestions on throws. This little baby is QUICK on the sticks even with 50% expo. Ease into the throttle, a little rudder and a very small amount os elev. and it is off true and straight.

Conclusion, and this is opinion only- This plane is well worth the cost and trouble to build. Flyes great, LOOKS great, and I can't see how you could build one for the price of the ARF. Hope all of you that get one like them as much as I like mine.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Great report Wayne. Thanks for the tips. I will go over all the edges of the monokote with a q-tip dipped in trim solvent to makes sure and seal them correctly.
Changing the wheels where on my list already and I just need to find the right ones. The problem here is the width. Oh well, I will find some.

OK, after reading so much about the CA hinge issue I did a little experiment last night with the robart hinge points and a 1/2 " balsa stick. I drilled the 1/8 " hole as recommended and then applied some water inside the hole with a toothpick and wicked some Gorilla glue on there (pushed it in with the toothpick and then applied some more). I then applied a drop of oil to the center of the hinge point to avoid glue sticking to it, and inserted the hinge point into the balsa slowly. Like expected, the hinge point came out on the inside pushing the glue out a little. I let it sit over night and checked this morning. It worked great, and is plenty strong. I could not pull it out with a pair of pliers, and the gorilla glue expanded nicely in the back creating a sort of plug. The hinge point moves freely too. Well, I guess I will use the Gorilla glue on my hinge points from now on (this is some strong stuff). I liked specially the part of the glue creating a plug behind the balsa. No glue expanded to the front [8D]

Installed also the standoffs from Aerografixs yesterday, and they worked perfect. Just the right length. I used aeropoxy to glue the cowl to the cowlring, and this came out also pretty strong.
So far no problems. I am really scared though about the part of mounting the wing. Hope everything will line up. Crossing my fingers here.

RE: GP <span class=
 

What didn't you like about the wheel pants? These are the best I've seen on any plane, and I've seen a lot of planes. Very solid. About the covering, it IS written in the instructions to run an iron over the covering, in fact it is one of the first steps. If you skip the step then don't be disappointed if some of the covering comes loose. All of my wing brackets fit except for the top wing center brackets, and there was a manual addendum explaining how to take care of that. I'm just trying to figure out how you are finding fault when you either aren't following the instructions or aren't explaining why you are finding fault.

RE: GP <span class=
 

I would think this is a bad idea. The ignition battery pack should be kept as far away from the RX flight packs as possible. You can certainly reposition the packs at the appropriate distances on either side of the CG to maintain balance. Just a thought.

I have two of these Eagles comin' and one is definitely a keeper.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Flyfalcons, I'm sorry I did not note I did not have one wrinkle in the plane when I opened the box. Not a single one. The covering was flawless!!! NOW, I did go over the plane with an iron with a sock just as the instructions stated. As stated the little POINTS still came loose. As far as the brackets go, I got one of the first planes released. I'm not the only one that had that problem, I had no addendum in my manual, and I wrote GP about the problem.(same problem was common to the Pitts when it came out). That written communication along with others may be the reason your plane had an addendum. The wheel pants were #1-too Thin, #2-too narrow for the wheels, #3-required the application of two pcs. of wood to strengithen them, #4- required the addition of additional glassing to support them. Now, I have or have had,H9 planes, Wildhare planes, Cardens, Laniers, and more, and I still say, and note I say this is my openion only, the wheel pants need improving. Also please accept this fact: I read the instruction manual for several weeks prior to assembling this plane, It took me two weeks to assemble it, I did not go in overdrive and off on a tangent just to get it on the field. So please do not try to insult me by making statements about not following instructions when you have no idea how or what I did or did not do. I'm sorry you were offended with my experience, undoubtly you think the plane is perfect, and there is nothing wrong with that, we all have our own openions. AS STATED- THE COMMENTS I OFFERED WERE MINE AND MINE ALONE, A READED MAY OR MAY NOT CHOOSED TO ACCEPT THEM.
As stated I love the plane, Great value, Great Plane.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Volfy, Thanks for the heads up, My Rx is in the rear of the plane, 13+" away from the ignition system. I have read and been told, and it has been my experience that battery packs actually absorbe RF, therefore I have placed my BPs as close to the ignition systen and as close together as possable on my planes. I have never experienced any problems with this. Now, if this is incorrect, or if I need to do it different, if there is any way to improve rx reception, please let me know. I fly gassers only, currently have a H9-330S/ZDZ-80; the Eagle/Brison 3.2; a Giant Stinger/Brison 4.2 and a Lazer/Sach 4.8 twin. and need all the help I can get to help reduce the possability of loosing one. Thanks,
Wayne.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Wayne, when you say battery packs "absorb" RF, you mean they prevent interference? That is definitely not correct. It isn't the battery cells themselves that should be in question, it is the battery leads you should be worried about. The leads act like antennae, both radiating RF (ignition side) and receiving (RX side). What this means is that not only should you keep the battery packs and their respective leads as far as part as possible, you should keep the lead lengths as short as possible to reduce picking up RF inteference.

I'm glad you never had problem with your setup. Good for you. However, I would strongly recommend against continuing you practice of clumping packs together and the use of long battery leads. If you are convinced yours is the right way and don't wish to change, well at least twist the battery leads to minimize RF pickup. I assembly my own battery packs and always twist my leads.

RE: GP <span class=
 

what do you mean by saying twist ?
Thanks

RE: GP <span class=
 

For the $$$$ you shouldn't have to "go over" the covering!

RE: GP <span class=
 

True, but with the reality of shipping planes in a hot cargo container for several weeks I think that step is going to be with us for a long time. Unless we want to go back to that awful foam/plastic hybrid covering [:'(]. I did avoid that step with my last plane by getting a Composite ARF :D. The wheel pants on that plane aren't as good as on the GP Egale though.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Twisting the leads at least 1~2 turns per inch. Since I build my own packs and switch harness, I start with two single conductor wires and chuck one end of the pair into a power drill, and hand hold the other end. I then let the power drill "wind" up the wires into a "twisted pair". This is very similar to the CAT-5 UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair) cable that is carrying the internet to the very computer you are using right now. It is a very common way to reduce RF noise.

Back to the Eagle. Going over the covering to take out minor wrinkles and seal down the edges is perfectly acceptable. Most of the common late model ARFs I've come across are done pretty well, but a few spot where the edges are not sealed down perfectly is not unreasonable given the mass production nature. Takes me less than 20mins to go over the entire ARF covering. Besides, $399 is not a lot of money for an ARF as large as the Christen Eagle. Just a few years ago, companies were selling comparable box-a-balsa kits for more than that.

RE: GP <span class=
 

Volfy- Thanks, eventhough I do, and have for a while twisted all my leads, even the servo leads, I think I will try to move some things this weekend. I can't remember where I picked up my info on the battery packs insulating/absorbing RF but I do know I have been doing this for a while. Like I have always said, If you do not learn something new every day, that day is a total loss. I thank you for your input.
Land them on the wheels.
Wayne

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

Santa is bringing me the Christian Eagle II and the OS300 4 stroke twin to power it.
I would appreciate any comments on the following;
1. Engine choice,too much,do I need to do anything to the firewall to reinforce it and has the
soft plywood problem been addressed and corrected?
2. Servos, Futaba S3305's?
a. 2 with ailerons linked as per scale with tubes linking top and bottom ailerons or 4,one
one each aileron?
3. Tailwheel linked to a dual bellcrank, near the bottom of the rudder, with the supplied,but not
used springs?
4. Replace the CA hinges with robart 1/4 scale hinges,pinned with dowels from the bottom?
5. Has the problem with the cabane mount in the top wing been corrected?

RE: GP <span class=
 

Wayne,
I know what your talking about!!! My cabanes wont line up for s@#t!! Millions of bubbles in the feather graphics.. My lower wing does'nt fit the wing saddle properly... I hope its a GREAT flyr for all the problems... I thank them for giving me the right new brackets.
I was going to put a Saito 270 in it. but the darn carb is mounted on the top of the motor and I'll need to cut the top of the cowl to get it to fit,unless I can get a shorter mount for it..Right now Im about 3/8 to far out..
Later
Frank