I need a soldering lesson
12-31-2010 | 04:36 PM
#26
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From: Linden, MI
RE: I need a soldering lesson
All I know is that I have one of the big Wellers, but after using one of the butane pencil torches, they heat up a localized area so much quicker that I don't have any issues now. I hardly every touch my weller now. And I ALWAYS flux the wire before I tin it. When soldering Deans, I usually use a small heat sink (that is, clamped on hemostats, between the plastic and the solder area) if necessary, to keep the plastic from beginining to soften. Just my $0.02
Dave
Dave
01-01-2011 | 09:27 AM
#28
RE: I need a soldering lesson
Hi!
Yeah! Most solder has flux inside but ...if you really want to use the best solder there is ..."Stay Brite" you got to use their small bottle with flux.
Yeah! Most solder has flux inside but ...if you really want to use the best solder there is ..."Stay Brite" you got to use their small bottle with flux.
01-01-2011 | 11:36 AM
#30
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RE: I need a soldering lesson
StayBrite is good solder but is not the best for electrical work. It generally uses an acid flux (a big NO-NO for electonics) and requires slightly more heat that a good electical solder. You are best off when doing electrical work to use the old standby 60/40 lead tin and electrical flux. Yes, some solders have the flux encased inside the solder but it is usually of minimum quantity and sometimes not enough. If you buy external flux, DO NOT GET AN ACID FLUX. If you are doing plumbing or that type work, okay to use acid flux as long as you thoroughly clean the joint afterwards to remove all flux. If you do not, you will have seriously corroded joints in a short time. It is often that an acid core flux is used for soldering piano wire where strength is important but again, be sure to remove it with a proper wash or cleaning to prevent corrosion soon after. Typical 60/40 tin/lead solder is more than adequately strong for all electrical work including splicing wire with only a butt or lap joint.
01-05-2011 | 11:33 AM
#31
RE: I need a soldering lesson
ORIGINAL: RealFly
First and foremost. You must match the solder to the item. For ELECTRICAL connections you should select solder with a rosin core flux. It is commonly found at radio shack. Most of the time if you use proper solder and a clean iron you will not have a problem with electrical.
First and foremost. You must match the solder to the item. For ELECTRICAL connections you should select solder with a rosin core flux. It is commonly found at radio shack. Most of the time if you use proper solder and a clean iron you will not have a problem with electrical.
Steve
01-05-2011 | 11:39 AM
#32
RE: I need a soldering lesson
Hi!
Of course "Stay-Brite" solder should not be used for electrical soldering...I though everyone knew that![X(]. But for all other applications it is out standing.
Of course "Stay-Brite" solder should not be used for electrical soldering...I though everyone knew that![X(]. But for all other applications it is out standing.
01-05-2011 | 02:22 PM
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From: Sambach,
AE, GERMANY
RE: I need a soldering lesson
I have recently switched to using Powerpoles for the exact reason the Original poster stated. The 10 guage wire is almost impossible to get soldered well to a Deans. I bought the acutal powerpole crimping pliers with the 45 AMP connectors for the 10 guage wire and it works awesome! I don't mind using the deans for smaller stuff but soldering them is a pain when compared to crimp and go on the andersons. I have a 5000 mah 6S pack for my Reactor and the andersons don't even break a sweat with the load I am putting on them. I will more than likely convert almost everything to Powerpoles. For heavy guage wire there is nothing better!
01-05-2011 | 03:35 PM
#34
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From: Lakeland,
FL
RE: I need a soldering lesson
Well here's a tip from someone who has soldered more then my share of heavy gauge wires to Deans. Like the HK packs now coming with 8 gauge wire on them.
As stated good heat is a must, I only use a 40 watt chisel pen, and clean surfaces, and good flux.
I have a pair of Deans connectors with about 6" of 10 gauge wire soldered to the tabs, hanging loose.
When I solder up a Deans I use one of my heat sink set ups plugged into it to help keep the heat from melting the plastic.
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
If you have problems from too much heat too long on the Deans and deforming the plastic, there are couplers out there that will help. Use the big heat on the wire to coupler, then very little is needed to solder the coupler to the Deans.
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-12...ersdsh-/Detail
Or switch to the EC3 or EC5 connectors dependent on you amp load. Super simple. Solder your wires to the terminals, and then after they cool, insert them into the connector body.
Lot of electric flyers are switching to these for that reason.
As stated good heat is a must, I only use a 40 watt chisel pen, and clean surfaces, and good flux.
I have a pair of Deans connectors with about 6" of 10 gauge wire soldered to the tabs, hanging loose.
When I solder up a Deans I use one of my heat sink set ups plugged into it to help keep the heat from melting the plastic.
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
If you have problems from too much heat too long on the Deans and deforming the plastic, there are couplers out there that will help. Use the big heat on the wire to coupler, then very little is needed to solder the coupler to the Deans.
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-12...ersdsh-/Detail
Or switch to the EC3 or EC5 connectors dependent on you amp load. Super simple. Solder your wires to the terminals, and then after they cool, insert them into the connector body.
Lot of electric flyers are switching to these for that reason.
01-05-2011 | 07:04 PM
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From: Sambach,
AE, GERMANY
RE: I need a soldering lesson
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
01-05-2011 | 10:03 PM
#36
Senior Member
RE: I need a soldering lesson
Heat, more heat and then a little more for good measue. You have to have a clean iron that is tinned with a bit of solder on it so you make a good heat contact when you put it on the wire or post. . You have to have clean wire. Dip the end of the wire in some paste flux and then scoup off a piece of solder onto the tip if the iron and hit the wire with it. The solder should flow onto the wire in less than two seconds. All of this has been said before by many posters on this thread. Clean and hot with the right flux and solder and soldering is easy You have to have all four, three of the for is trouble.
Don
Don
01-06-2011 | 07:28 AM
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From: Denver, CO
RE: I need a soldering lesson
I like EC3 connectors as well, even though I mainly use Deans. EC3s are much easier to disconnect, especially when your fingers are frozen from a cold flight in the Winter. The only problem I've found with EC3 is the small cups where the wire goes into. If the gauge of the wire is too thick, the cups may not be large enough and you have to trim the excess wire.
I like your idea of notching the wire for a deans connection and then soldering both ends. I'll have to give that a try. After about 15 or so Deans soldering attempts, I've finally got it down to where I can solder a Deans connection very cleanly.
One thing OPJOSE told me is to plug the other end of the connector in before you solder. So if you're soldering a male connector, then plug it to a female connector first. This will keep the plastic from deforming if you have the iron on the metal part too long. Great advice and I do it every time I solder now.
I like your idea of notching the wire for a deans connection and then soldering both ends. I'll have to give that a try. After about 15 or so Deans soldering attempts, I've finally got it down to where I can solder a Deans connection very cleanly.
One thing OPJOSE told me is to plug the other end of the connector in before you solder. So if you're soldering a male connector, then plug it to a female connector first. This will keep the plastic from deforming if you have the iron on the metal part too long. Great advice and I do it every time I solder now.
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
Well here's a tip from someone who has soldered more then my share of heavy gauge wires to Deans. Like the HK packs now coming with 8 gauge wire on them.
As stated good heat is a must, I only use a 40 watt chisel pen, and clean surfaces, and good flux.
I have a pair of Deans connectors with about 6'' of 10 gauge wire soldered to the tabs, hanging loose.
When I solder up a Deans I use one of my heat sink set ups plugged into it to help keep the heat from melting the plastic.
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
If you have problems from too much heat too long on the Deans and deforming the plastic, there are couplers out there that will help. Use the big heat on the wire to coupler, then very little is needed to solder the coupler to the Deans.
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-12...ersdsh-/Detail
Or switch to the EC3 or EC5 connectors dependent on you amp load. Super simple. Solder your wires to the terminals, and then after they cool, insert them into the connector body.
Lot of electric flyers are switching to these for that reason.
Well here's a tip from someone who has soldered more then my share of heavy gauge wires to Deans. Like the HK packs now coming with 8 gauge wire on them.
As stated good heat is a must, I only use a 40 watt chisel pen, and clean surfaces, and good flux.
I have a pair of Deans connectors with about 6'' of 10 gauge wire soldered to the tabs, hanging loose.
When I solder up a Deans I use one of my heat sink set ups plugged into it to help keep the heat from melting the plastic.
Anyhow, the tip. After tinning the Deans and wire, take a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel, and notch the wire so one half slips over and under the Deans tab.
You'll have wire contact on top/bottom/end of the tab. Touch the bottom of the wire and not more then 2 seconds and you will have a rock solid bond.
If you have problems from too much heat too long on the Deans and deforming the plastic, there are couplers out there that will help. Use the big heat on the wire to coupler, then very little is needed to solder the coupler to the Deans.
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-12...ersdsh-/Detail
Or switch to the EC3 or EC5 connectors dependent on you amp load. Super simple. Solder your wires to the terminals, and then after they cool, insert them into the connector body.
Lot of electric flyers are switching to these for that reason.
