I got my SuperStar 40 ready to fly today. CG checked out in the proper location. I disassembled the LA40 to make sure there wasn't any rust inside, it was good. Charged up the batteries, attached the wing and headed to the front yard. I used a cargo strap to secure it to the ground. As my fuel is a couple years old, I decided to only use it for ground testing (there is only a little bit of the gallon left). Since I had to order a new battery for my starter, I used my chicken stick. After priming and setting the needle valve, it started on the third flip! I ran the throttle up and down, reset the needle valve, then let it run on full throttle. 14+ mins on a tank of fuel! Next tank I taxied around the yard "cutting the grass"!

Now I am working on replacing the bearings in my 46AX. They are a little bit rusty from sitting. And I have to replace the carb, as it is frozen.

Sounds like a productive day! AS for the 46Ax I wouldn't write off the bearings and the carb just yet. Does the rust appear to be surface rust only? If so I would check them for play and smoothness then fire it up and let it run! I hae seen the same thing on a couple of my motors and had no ill effects. As for the carb take some of that old fuel you have and pour some in a cup. Drop the carb in there and let it soak for a day or so. The oil in the fuel should help to loosen up the barrel.

Well I just finished playing with the carb. I think that will be fine, some 3 in oil and taking it apart and everything is fine. The only concern I have now is that I turned the low speed needle all the way out as I was figuring out how to disassemble the carb. Pulled up the manual and set the low speed needle as the manual states. I will just have to fine tune it at the field.

This engine is off of my Ultra Stick 40. I still have to get new batteries for the receiver and transmitter. This is what I get for taking a couple years off, all my batteries are shot [:@]

I am still going to replace the bearings. After heating the engine in the oven to get them out, they will be replaced. It turned smoothly, but I was worried about rust flakes messing up the engine. Plus this was a learning experience
Thank goodness for the gentleman that did the YouTube video showing how to do it. Now I am contemplating taking apart my 46FX and Super Tigre 45, just to check out the innards.

Nebbie,
The best advice I can give you is, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

But you also can't tell what the insides look like without taking it apart

The Super Tigre 45 probably hasn't been run in 4 years. I think the last plane I had it was my first and last attempt at a SPAD. The 46FX has probably not run in a few years either. It is on a Seagull Spacewalker 2 that I haven't maddened yet. But it used to be on my Ultra Stick. I bought the AX for the Spacewalker, but the AX didn't like running inverted.

One day I will have these planes flying again. But since I have been off the sticks for a couple years, I am going to hook up with an instructor and use the trainer to "knock the rust off"

And today I asked the LHS to order me a Sig 4*40 kit. I will be building that in the evenings, along with a Sig Kadet Senior that I ordered new wing kit for. I still want to put a bomb drop (bomb bay) in the Senior

G'day

As a previous poster said "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Every time you pull an engine apart you shorten its life quite a lot. For your other engines, I would pull the back plate off and have a look and perhaps put some general purpose oil in there - something like 3 in 1 and then see if the engine feels free. If it does, run it. The "rust" is often just oil residue and will be cleaned out with a good run.

When faced with a stuck carby, I just warm them with a heat gun or gentle flame and they then loosen up. Once they do, then oil them as above. It is a good idea to blow fuel through the carby from both directions (ie blow some back from the needle engine) to push out any dried fuel residue.

If you do pull the engine apart, make sure you mark the conrod so you know which way it goes back and the piston too. And look out for the nick in the top of the LA liner which has to line up with a pin. Not sure about the AX but it probably had one too.

Have fun

Mike in Oz

I have several OS engines that have sat around for a couple of years, and I don't intend to take anything apart. I will see how things go, if there is fuel flow and if the engines start, which I will say that I have all the confidence that they will. Rotating the props gives you a sense of feel as to how the insides are, bearing condition, and so on.

As said, if they are not broke, then don't fix them. Learning is one thing, but manufacturing problems is something else. You can tell a lot by the way they run on the ground. If they start, run, and throttle well, fly the things. What's the worse that can happen.. dead stick? If you had the right training, that should be a piece of cake.. right? [X(] Well, you get the idea.

CGr.

How does one shorten the life of an engine by taking the backplate off and in specting the bearings?

Jeffie keep in mind this is the begginers forum and in that context it is very common for a fair percentage of new folks to over amp about everything concerning their engine and in extreme cases even discard perfectly good engines. One example simply being someone who may be an engine expert in other fields but with a first experiance in model glow engines completely freaks about leaks everywhere in a perfectly good engine.

The Back plate sure? I,ve seen new folks cross thread the screws, seen the screws not tightened evenly in a cross hatch pattern, seen the gaskets when used miss aligned and even screwed through. All these things can and will cause running problems, running problem results in maladjusted needles which may include lean runs. Does this shorten an engines life? You Betcha.

Even worse Further uneccessary disaasembly by new folks who may not be experianced or being mentored by someone very often fail to get the piston/rod assembly back in the way it came out i.e. 180 degrees backwards by simply not using or knowing to mark the rod on the big end on dissasembly. Some engines the rod may line up perfectly or some may be off set slightly which can cause the rod to bend on running and regardless just getting the piston installed 180 out in the sleeve will not allow the proper seating and completely require a new break in. This is what Mike109 was trying to get accross I beleve. Does this shorten engine life? Oh my goodness yes.


The real bottom line here is when you are new There was never a more profound a statement muttered about engines than: Don;t fix it, if it ain,t broke!

Nebbie forgive me but I read nothing in your posts that said the engine is making noise (berings) or giving you running problems only that you think they are rusting.

Forget it use the engine and go flying.

John

Believe me I would love to go flying . The temps this week have been great, just a little too much wind for a rusty pilot

Oh I hear ya bout the winds Mike. Get our share here in the wilds of northern Arizona but do see short flyable windows often in the early AM, never in the evenings though for some reason[8D]

John

The wind today was gusting. It would die down just long enough to fool you into putting a plane in the air, then you would hear it blowing through the trees. Well I wasn't fooled. In order to avoid temptation, I drove out to the park but left my plane at home.

The first guy that I saw was the club president. I haven't seen him in over two years, he welcomed me back like I was just there last weekend! I sat and BS'd with the guys for a few hours, watched them fly their SPADs, and had a great time (until my wife called asking me when I was coming home

I heard the winds may die down tomorrow. If so I will go by and have one of the guys check my plane over. If it "passes" muster, I will have one of them maiden it and trim it for me.

Unfortunately many people in the hobby have no idea on engines, because of lack of experience. Your OS sounds like it may be stuck due to the oil setting up over time. About the worst thing you can do is attempt to turn over a gummy engine, because the bearing's balls will slide instead of rotate. Doing this puts flat spots on the balls and degrades the bearings. The best way to loosen the engine is to heat it up in your oven to about 250-275 degrees. This temperature will allow you to turn any engine where it is only congealed oil. Add more oil to the bearings to help flush out the old oil while hot. I would take off the backplate and carb, while using a wood prop. Gloves are also mandatory.

Now most people think you are home free at this point, but they overlook another important area in the engine. The wrist pin may be frozen in the rod, thus the pin rotates in the piston. This is very bad, since the pin should not turn in the piston, but rather the pin should allow the rod to rotate back and forth on the pin.

Marginal bearings can sometimes be salvaged if you have an ultra-sonic cleaner. But to do this you really need to remove them from the engine case. This means you have removed the sleeve, the piston and rod, and the crankshaft. To remove the bearings, heat the case in the oven again, and slap the case down on a block of wood against the surface where the backplate mounts and the rear bearing will just drop out. Avoid using a torch, as it is difficult to evenly heat the case and you can damage the case. The front bearing will push out with the crankshaft from behind.

Use a pencil to mark the rod before you remove it from the engine and leave the rod in the piston unless it is frozen to the wrist pin. Pay particular attention to how the wrist pin is held in. There are three or four common methods of assembly, but circlips are most often found. When ever possible, use a new clip or pair if you remove both, and pay attention to the direction the wrist pin goes in. It takes a very very small set of needle nose pliers to remove circlips, and is also needed to put them back into the groove. You will also want to use a #11 exacto to make sure the clip is in the groove. When working with piston rings or circlips be sure to wear eye protection.

By no means does this cover everything you need to know to take apart engines or to reassemble them. That would take a lot more time to write. Bear in mind, that many engines have thin shims or special parts that you may not notice when taking apart, unless you are paying very close attention. Lose one or leave it out and it will not turn over when reassembled. If the circlip breaks or comes out, you will lose the piston and sleeve. If the main bearing breaks down, you will damage the piston, sleeve and even head. So the condition of bearings is important. To test the bearing when out of the engine, hold the outer race and turn the inner race with your index finger. It should be smooth when pressure is applied in the radial direction (like as if the prop was pulling against the bearing).