Gluing Techniques
#2

My Feedback: (1)
Well, it sort of depends on where you are adding the Epoxy. I sometimes use a toothpick to put it in corners, or some otherwise inaccessable place, or just glob it in, like in goining a wing and spar together in an ARF wing.
Sometimes, it also works to thin it out with Alcohol to get it to run smoothly, as in the engine compartment when trying to fuel proof it.
Where in particular do you want to apply Epoxy?
CGr
Sometimes, it also works to thin it out with Alcohol to get it to run smoothly, as in the engine compartment when trying to fuel proof it.
Where in particular do you want to apply Epoxy?
CGr
#3
Depends very much on the size of the surface you are gluing. For small structures I use toothpicks to apply mixed epoxy. You can visit a $1 store or such and usually find packs of TPs for 2 for a dollar, each with 100 TPs. Last a long time.
For large glue surfaces such as fuel proofing a nose/tank section use a small brush (again $ store stuff) and apply heat with a heat gun. The epoxy will run gin-thin and can be brushed well into the surface. Watch for a quick setting.
For general structure work, I strongly advise you use the cream-colored glues such as those found in any store selling building materials, or crafts. While working with these glues you may have to pin or clamp joints. A TOUCH of CA will hold stuff in place while main glue dries, so another option. For me, being a builder since the late '40s, I use whatever I think the structure needs.
Back to epoxy, if it is a fair sized joint like an ARF's wing tail joints, I use a pop-cycle stick, or a scrap piece of wood, or cardboard, or whatever me lil' ol' fingers can reach. Some make mountains from mole-hills.
For large glue surfaces such as fuel proofing a nose/tank section use a small brush (again $ store stuff) and apply heat with a heat gun. The epoxy will run gin-thin and can be brushed well into the surface. Watch for a quick setting.
For general structure work, I strongly advise you use the cream-colored glues such as those found in any store selling building materials, or crafts. While working with these glues you may have to pin or clamp joints. A TOUCH of CA will hold stuff in place while main glue dries, so another option. For me, being a builder since the late '40s, I use whatever I think the structure needs.
Back to epoxy, if it is a fair sized joint like an ARF's wing tail joints, I use a pop-cycle stick, or a scrap piece of wood, or cardboard, or whatever me lil' ol' fingers can reach. Some make mountains from mole-hills.

#7
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Havertown, PA
While we are talking about Gluing Techniques, I am read to to glue the Tail on my 330L and I was wondering what is the best way to do it and what Glue to use. Iknow Ineed to make sure my measurements from the Wing corners to the Tail fin are equal..a.k.a. the" Triangle" So what is the best glue to use and have time to make the measurements before it dries too fast?
#8

My Feedback: (1)
Well, most of those that I put together recommended a slow curing Epoxy, say 30 minute. Then apply it liberally, put the parts together, center and square them, secure them so they stay put, wipe off the excess epoxy with an alcohol soaked rag, then let it set. You should be able to handle it after about an hour or so, even though it says 30 minute. I let it go a bit more, even overnight so that it cures good and solid.
CGr.
CGr.
#9
In addition to CGRetired's approach, I use a 1/16" drill bit in a pin vise to add a bunch of holes in both surfaces. I apply the slow epoxy with a paint "spatula" that is nice-n-bendy with a wood handle - great for a very smooth surface and applies enough pressure to push the epoxy into the holes - making for a mechanical bind between the surfaces.
#10
Dip.
You need to use the right hardener for the application. Inever use anything faster than a 30 minute epoxy. Ihave done plywood boats with epoxy &glass or just epoxy over the plywood with roller or foam brush and it self levels - IF it has enough work time in the hardener. You can also thin it with acetone or alcohol if you need it thinner for brushing.
You need to use the right hardener for the application. Inever use anything faster than a 30 minute epoxy. Ihave done plywood boats with epoxy &glass or just epoxy over the plywood with roller or foam brush and it self levels - IF it has enough work time in the hardener. You can also thin it with acetone or alcohol if you need it thinner for brushing.
#12
A friend who is an expert builder uses epoxy to provide a simple, fuel proof fillet to seal the covering joint between the fin and stab. He covers each before gluing together. Use your finger to run a small bead of 30-min epoxy down the joint then clean up with alcohol damp finger.
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: cambridge, OH
thank you all for you're input since i posted this another member suggested using Q-tips
I tried this and works real well but for some reason i never thought to use alcohol to wipe excess
i will in the future and also drill some holes to let it really soak in where a strong joint is required
again thanks to all for the info you've provided
I tried this and works real well but for some reason i never thought to use alcohol to wipe excess
i will in the future and also drill some holes to let it really soak in where a strong joint is required
again thanks to all for the info you've provided
#15
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Lufkin,
TX
SeamusG
You can add fingernail polish to the epoxy while you mix it to match the covering also. Then when you make the fillet with epoxy it is the same color as the covering. To me it looks better then just a plain epoxy fillet. And you can get fingernail polish in alomost every color so you can mix it to match the covering.
You can add fingernail polish to the epoxy while you mix it to match the covering also. Then when you make the fillet with epoxy it is the same color as the covering. To me it looks better then just a plain epoxy fillet. And you can get fingernail polish in alomost every color so you can mix it to match the covering.
#16

My Feedback: (29)
ORIGINAL: poot43725
thank you all for you're input since i posted this another member suggested using Q-tips
I tried this and works real well but for some reason i never thought to use alcohol to wipe excess
i will in the future and also drill some holes to let it really soak in where a strong joint is required
again thanks to all for the info you've provided
thank you all for you're input since i posted this another member suggested using Q-tips
I tried this and works real well but for some reason i never thought to use alcohol to wipe excess
i will in the future and also drill some holes to let it really soak in where a strong joint is required
again thanks to all for the info you've provided




