Wing Joining
#1
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From: New Canaan, CT
Hi all, I have a bunch of questions on joining my wings, so bear with...I'm using 30 minute epoxy on my LT-40 ARF, and my first question is, when I was test fitting them, I noticed that down the joint, there was a small gap, so I pushed it together and for the most part, the two halves seemed to touch, however, I realized I couldn't keep it pushed together, and get the alignment right at the same time, So will it be easier when I use glue since the glue will keep it together? Also, when I'm taping it, I'm going to use masking tape, is the goal of taping just to keep it properly aligned? Finally, how long should i sit with it after I connect the halves..30 minutes, an hour, etc?
Thanks so much.
Tom
Thanks so much.
Tom
#2

My Feedback: (1)
Tom,
Try to sand the panels so that you get a snug fit.
Given that this is an ARF??, you may not be able to sand the butts without peeling back the covering, simply apply plenty of 30min epoxy to all surfaces that need gluing. Then press them together firmly and hold in place with masking tape.
Set it to dry overnight.
If there are gaps left when you remove the tape, fill them with epoxy and leave to sit till completely dry.
If you still are not satisfied with the joint, you can strip back the covering approximately 2 inches on either side and glaze it with a lightweight fibreglass cloth and 30 min epoxy. Then apply covering material to hide the fibreglass strip.
Hope this helps
Try to sand the panels so that you get a snug fit.
Given that this is an ARF??, you may not be able to sand the butts without peeling back the covering, simply apply plenty of 30min epoxy to all surfaces that need gluing. Then press them together firmly and hold in place with masking tape.
Set it to dry overnight.
If there are gaps left when you remove the tape, fill them with epoxy and leave to sit till completely dry.
If you still are not satisfied with the joint, you can strip back the covering approximately 2 inches on either side and glaze it with a lightweight fibreglass cloth and 30 min epoxy. Then apply covering material to hide the fibreglass strip.
Hope this helps
#3
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From: OKC, OK
First, NO GLUE, epoxy. Saying glue normally refers to using CA and that does not have enough holding power for your wing joint. Second, once you have the wing joined with epoxy, your best bet would be to leave it alone for 24 hours to let the epoxy set (not cure, there's a difference). 3rd, the masking tape is used for alignment as well as a sort of clamp. 4th, while you are letting the epoxy set, since your wing probably has a few degrees of dihedral, put something under one side of the so that it keeps it raised up and the other side flat on your table. Just be sure not to raise it up and get it crooked. Just wanting to keep the dihedral in there.
#4
I think Beardking had it reversed - let it stay for 24 hours to cure then you have the most strength. 30 minute epoxy "sets" in 30 minutes - the point where the epoxy has taken it's final form and is no longer workable, but it's not done drying yet.
On ARFs - if the joining rib sides already have a glaze on them (i.e. they have a shiny appearance) then you should sand that off. The epoxy will adhere to bare wood much better than a coated surface.
I also like to poke tiny little holes in each surface with a T-pin. These hole don't go all the way, but just enough to make a little pit. I think this gives the epoxy a little more grab as it can fill the tiny holes. Make sure you put a coat of epooxy on each side and use a popsicle stick to put a little pressure on the epoxy coat to make sure it gets in good.
On my Avistar and SkyVista - I sanded off the glaze, poked a bunch of little holes in the sides to be glued, then epoxied them. I used a combo of masking tape and some clamps to hold it in place and left it over night.
I completely trust that joint. I beat the snot of my Avistar with high G stuff (outside loops, snaps, etc.) and it's held up great. Knock on wood!
On ARFs - if the joining rib sides already have a glaze on them (i.e. they have a shiny appearance) then you should sand that off. The epoxy will adhere to bare wood much better than a coated surface.
I also like to poke tiny little holes in each surface with a T-pin. These hole don't go all the way, but just enough to make a little pit. I think this gives the epoxy a little more grab as it can fill the tiny holes. Make sure you put a coat of epooxy on each side and use a popsicle stick to put a little pressure on the epoxy coat to make sure it gets in good.
On my Avistar and SkyVista - I sanded off the glaze, poked a bunch of little holes in the sides to be glued, then epoxied them. I used a combo of masking tape and some clamps to hold it in place and left it over night.
I completely trust that joint. I beat the snot of my Avistar with high G stuff (outside loops, snaps, etc.) and it's held up great. Knock on wood!
#5
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From: New Canaan, CT
Thanks guys, I think I got it. A couple of questions though: What's the best way to tape it, should I tape it across the joint in a few places, or along it [ie if the tape is 1" wide, 1/2" is on each sideall down the joint?
Also, the instructions I have say to coat both openings for the wing joiner , but then the next step is to put the joiner in one of the wings, and then coat the rest of the exposed joiner and ribs. I think it would make more sense to wait on coating the other opening until i coat the ribs and such? the only reason I ask this question is because I'm making sure I'm not overlooking something, like the epoxy setting in or something.
Thanks so much
Tom
Also, the instructions I have say to coat both openings for the wing joiner , but then the next step is to put the joiner in one of the wings, and then coat the rest of the exposed joiner and ribs. I think it would make more sense to wait on coating the other opening until i coat the ribs and such? the only reason I ask this question is because I'm making sure I'm not overlooking something, like the epoxy setting in or something.
Thanks so much
Tom
#6
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My Feedback: (4)
It really doesn't matter which way you do it, go with what works for you.
As far as the tape goes, it should go along the joint. BUT before you put the tape on, I like to "set" the wing in position by adding a drop of medium CA (with kicker) to the LE and TE just to keep them from moving while the epoxy cures.
As far as the tape goes, it should go along the joint. BUT before you put the tape on, I like to "set" the wing in position by adding a drop of medium CA (with kicker) to the LE and TE just to keep them from moving while the epoxy cures.



