<span style="font-size: medium"><span style="font-family: Arial">Hey all! I'm a new member with a question. Can someone tell me what type of CA glue is used for plane repair? I've read that thin CA soaks into balsa and I'm not sure that's what you want. Would gel CA be better? I know people recommend epoxy for repairs and areas that need to be stronger. It seems like guys are using CA now in order to build much more quickly than the old Ambroid and yellow glue days.
Thanks,
Jim</span></span></p>

I use thin CA when I want to quickly bond two pieces of balsa together that WILLNOT require sanding later. Thin CA is extremely fluid and will run everywhere if you apply it too liberally. For thin CA I use applicator tips that limit the flow. Yes, thin CA will absorb into the balsa but that's good when joining two pieces together. That's what creates such a good bond.

I use medium CA when I want a little more time to work but not wanting to waitsay aslong as wood glue would take to dry. Again, Idon't use CA when I wantto sand later. I use Elmer's Carpenter wood gluewhenever possible, especially for sheeting,and for sure when sanding is involved. CAis just nasty stuff and dries hard as nails.

I use epoxy(5 or 30 minute variety) whenjoiningwing halves together.Epoxy goes on thick and dries thick. I wouldn't useepoxyon wood that will see covering. It's a pain tosand as well.I use Epoxy on firewalls, and for the horizontal and vertical stab areastoo.

For general repair, most cases youcan use thin or medium CAto mend balsa. If it gets on your fingers use WD-40 or gasoline to clean it off right away. Don't sniff the fumes either.

Thanks that helps a lot. I've also been told that 5 min epoxy is less strong than the longer curing types. Then another guy told me "epoxy is epoxy" so there seems to be, like in everything in life, many viewpoints.

30 min epoxy gives a longer working time for parts that might not align quickly. The bond is also somewhat stronger as it has more time to soak into the wood, but I really don't think anyone would be able to tell the difference. If it breaks 5 min. stuff, it will, quite likely, break the 30 min. stuff, too. Either one will give you a joint that should be stronger than the surrounding material.

Thin CA does tend to soak into the wood pores, and that's a very GOOD thing.

Epoxy is very strong, but tends NOT to soak deeply into the wood.

Whenever I want to strengthen wood areas, formers, etc... I'll drip liberal amounts of CA into the wood making the material MUCH harder and stiffer, with little additional weight... ( heh I'm now buying 8oz CA bottles in bulk as a result ).

Sometimes I'll apply thin CA, let things dry then apply epoxy when I want extra strength and bonding.... like in gear areas and firewalls.

Ultimately it depends upon your application and what you are fixing/building/repairing...

I keep 5, 15, 30min and slow cure finishing covering Epoxy on hand, along with fiberglass epoxy compounds.

I also keep Thick, Medium and Thin epoxy on hand... all get used and all have their uses...

Thin CA on tight fitting balsa joints. I like thick CA for sheeting. Keep in mind you need foam safe CA when doing anything with foam or the CA will eat the foam as fast as gas or acetone. I use epoxy when gluing hardwoods, CA just doesn't hold hardwood very well.
When in doubt test on some scrap and see what you like. Most builders have several types of glues on hand, good old Elmer's and most wood glues have made a big come back after the user comes down with a CA reaction.

I keep three kinds of epoxy on hand.  30 minute, finishing and West Systems (about four hours).  I don't care for 5 minute at all.

Use thin CA to repair very clean breaks and medium when the edges are rougher.  In fact, I like Titebond II for most of my wood to wood repairs.

thin is good if you can get the pieces back together and the grains back intertwined. the ca will flow into the wood and freeze it back together. the medium fills a few gaps better and is better for cleaner joints