As the previous posts have said, the pushrod should be attached at the outer-most hole on the tiller arm. Also you should probably move the connection at the servo end to the inner-most hole on the servo arm. This also will reduce the amount of movement for the nose wheel. As said above, the wheel only needs to move 10 or 15 degrees right and left from straight ahead.

But it sounds to me that your main problem may be that the nose wheel pushrod is flexing when the model is moving and the wheel is under load. The manufacturers typically give you a very thin, flexible pushrod. This can be remedied by making a support from a piece of 1/4" balsa wood and gluing it between the plastic pushrod sleeve and the inside fuselage wall close to the servo end. Be sure not to glue the metal pushrod, but just the outer plastic sleeve. That should keep it from bowing back and forth.

Taxing around, and yes it was dark but there are street lights around here and a big parking lot. I first noticed it when taxing around anyways. If it does it taxing then it is going to do it on take off and landing. Oh well.....

Hope this answers you question .


RCken I did once try and turn the plane at a high speed and noticed that so I stopped trying to turn the plane like that. The Gear is brand spanking new so it can not be worn.

I will give a update on the new gear when it comes in. Thanks again for the input!!!!!

The only answers can come from flying the airplane and how it responds at takeoff/landing speeds. Running around in a street will not offer any answers at all.

Also if you have the pushrod to far out at the servo you still may have to much wheel travel.

John

I am going to try that, I can put it in 1 more hole on the servo.

Excellent, I think you will find the airplane is far more pleasent to fly during takeoffs and landings and the improvment in your nice perfectly straight takeoffs etc. will be noticble to your flying buds.

Do keep in mind that you will have to plan you turnarounds for taxi backs as you cannot do those acute turns now (which after all is the reason for your prop strikes when traveling to fast).

Now a tip for controling the taxi with any trigeared airplane. Lets say after landing you need to turn back around to return to the pits but the airplane does not seem to respond at all, whats going on?

Most of us after landing or many times at all times tend to hold full up elevator even with zero ground speed if there is any rpm at all from the engine this elevator will be attempting to raise the nose which in turn will reduce the ability of the nosewheel to steer. This effect can be so bad that its even impossible to turn downwind for return. Many times you will need to let go of that elevator or even apply down elevator.

This effect was hammered home with me for several years when I promoted an unusual form of wingless trainer races an we explored many far out landing gear geometrys as long as the airplane remained flyable with the addition of a wing.

John

I've seen the nose gear on some trainers at the field fold under from just being too soft. Maybe to small a diameter metal. The plane would land and fold under on the roll out. The Chinese metal isn't always the best. How is the main gear holding up? Is it spreading out? A replacement made out of good metal will likely cure the problem. It might also be too short and throwing the weight forward when turning.

I have landed it 4 times now...once in grass and three times on pavement. The mains seems fine,I land very well so they have not really been tested. I see your point though

Well. One thing that causes it is if the holes in the mounting braket and motor mount are too large and the landing gear wire flops around inside of it. it should be a close fit just free enough to not have any friction or binding. The landing gear wire should not move side to side or front and back unless you force it enough to flex the wire.

Two, too small or a poorly heat treated landing gear wire. It flexes too easily and tends to bend and stay bent too easily. You have to get a new one.
Three, if the plane is too large or heavy for the landing gear wire, then you need to go up a size larger in wire thickness. The Fults gear works really good too.

Four as mentioned already, the nose wheel only turns a little bit from side to side, 10 to 15 degrees.

Five, the nose wheel hole in the axle is too large or routed out or worn out, allowing the wheel to flop around from side to side. Also you usually need a wheel retaining collar on both sides of the wheel, so that it doesn't move from side to side too much.

Take a look at the steering arm from Du-Bro that goes through the spring. It has a rubber grommet and an arm that inserts through the grommet. Your nose gear steering arm hooks to this arm in the grommet. That will reduce the flexing in the spring.....


http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/...ro/DUB664.html

Larry

We always replace trainer nose gear right off the bat with a new Fults!

Chris923

It's not the holes, mounts, etc. It is a cheap piece of music wire, period.

Kurt

You are right about the cheap music wire, but this is a lot cheaper than the Fluts nose gear and it works. That's what you get in a cheap ARF.....

Try to remember the OP opened the thread with "I just purchased a used hobbico hobbistar 60." We have no idea how 'tired' the nosewheel wire is.

Stan

That's true we don't. But like I mentioned before, that Du-Bro steering arm bolts in the coil of the nose gear wire to keep the coil from spreading during turns, reguardless of how old or how misused the nose wheel wire had been put through....

Larry

Yeah I think this would work, because that is exactly where it is flexing at. The wire itself does not seem to be bending

If you have the nose gear set up so that you make a complete turn, 180º in less that 20 feet, then you have it set for to much throw. Reduce the throw and this might keep it from flipping over on it's nose....

Larry

Got my gear on saturday. It looks rock solid and feels rock solid. I will give an update later this week if possible.

This thing is as strong as an OX.......great choice!!!! Here is a picture

His next post will be about the firewall pulling out from the strong gear not bending. That is a stout looking nose gear in a 7lb. airframe. Should do fine.

I used one of those nose gears on a 40 size trainer last year.  Got tired of the single gear bending.  Once I put the double strut gear on...no more troubles.

I also have it on my 90mm EDF jet.  Just because the videos I saw showed the single gear bending back on almost every landing.  Havent maidened the jet yet, but with 3000 watts I dont think I will notice the extra bit of weight.

Amazing...this gear is wonderful. I did not change a thing other than the gear and I must say again this gear is wonderful. Same throw, same servo holes, same gear arm holes and it never once tried to tip over. Solid as a rock......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!