Well I think we got it according to the directions. now the proof of the pudding will be when I put in on my flight stand tomorrow and fire that puppy up. I put a new fuel tank and all new plumbing in so that should eliminate one area. Will report back tomorrow and see what happens.

Putting it on a flight stand is a great idea.

As you start adjusting it, run at least a half gallon of fuel through the engine while it is on the stand.

Better to break it in on the ground and resolve all problems there, rather than in the air!

Set it up on the stand in the upright position and the fuel tank centerline on center with the spray bar in the carb. If you can get it running well under these conditions then without touching anything install it in the plane without the cowl and try running it. It should run the same if your installation set up is correct. I would change my installation until I could duplicate the way it ran in the stand. Once that is accomplished install the cowl. Does anything change? Sometimes the air outlets in the cowl are too small and the cowl acts like an air dam and the engine will not run right until this is addressed. General rule is outlet area must be greater then inlet some say as by as much as 2 times. I have had to make and install baffles in the cowl to direct the cooling where it was needed. In one case it would not have looked scale to open up the outlets any more so instead baffles were made that not only cut down on the intake area but detected all intake air directly to the center of the cylinder and head. The engine finally ran as it should.

Good luck and keep us up to date with what you find.

Gorish,

I have 2 Magnum 1.08s and both are great running engines. The Mag & the ASP are basically the same. Some ASPs have a higher compression for using a low or no nitro fuel in Europe. Stick to 10% or less is the best thing.

They are ABC engines so do not run them slobbering rich. The brass sleeve won't get hot enough to open up and you'll wear the piston prematurely.

They like a hot glow plug like a 4-stroke plug.

Don't listen to anyone about the carb. They are, or at least were, great. In my area, when we were running a lot of Super Tigre 2500s and 3000s, we would ditch the stock carb and use an OS 7D. They got too expensive so we started using ASP 1.08 carbs at $26 with the same results. I must have had 6 ASP 1.08 carbs at one time. I was at a giant meet many years ago up in Alabama and had an original, Stick type plane with tapered wings. One of the other guys couldn't get his 3000 to run and had put a gasser in his plane. I told him to let me try his engine. I hadn't flown or readjusted the ASP 1.08 carb. I bolted his 3000 on my plane, installed my Bisson Pitts muffler and my ASP 1.08 carb. No changes or adjustments, I just replaced the parts. I fueled up and flew 6 flights without touching the needles. I had six 1-flip starts and no in-flight failures. Don't tell me ASP 1.08 carbs are no good.

The 1.08 likes a large prop. Think of the engine as a tractor engine and not a racing engine. The best results I had were with a 15-8 or 16-6 prop. If you ever do find the instructions, do not believe them for props. They recommend a 13-8 or 14-6 or 8. Tried them all and the Mag .91 will out turn the 1.08 on those props. It need some big lumber to use the torque.

If you'll choke it wet, then slap the prop backwards, you should get a 1-flip start. Run up to full power and lean out, then back off a few clicks. Leave the battery on!! Start slowing down to see what low speed you can get. Once you get to a fairly slow speed let it run there for 10-15 seconds, then pop the power to it. If it rumbles and blows smoke, the low end it too rich. Screw the low speed jet in 1/8 of a turn. If the engine coughs and quits, it's too lean. Screw the low speed out 1/8 turn. Keep doing this until your needle is set. I like to have mine idle for a timed 60 seconds, then flip to full power with no or only a minor stumble. This will take a while if your needles are way off. I use a test stand that I roll out of my garage on a weekend afternoon to break-in & set my engines.

+1

Yes they do, don't they...

The slightly longer 4 stroke plug also helps during inverted starts.

I also agree about the carb. Once you learn to deal with them there is nothing wrong with the carb.

boy I cut the heck out of my hand (palm) was using the elect starter to prime it with out the glow stick on and my hand slipped and the prop took 2 nice slices out of the palm[&o]. Just something else to add to the frustration.[&o]

Ouch!!! Good thing the engine didn't start. Just think how much more you will appreciate this engine when it is all set up right. I think they call it "character building".

boy am I going to have a lot of character

Sorry to change subjects a bit, but I always wondered what is that plane in your avatar. It it the Thunder Tiger Beaver 40?

No, a scratch build DeHavilland Beaver 75 2 stroke.

Whoa!! Sorry, I was way off, except for the Beaver part. Scratch-built is much nicer than the plastic fuse, foam wing ARF I was thinking about. Thanks. Just curious.

Hi!
Sorry about your hand!
There is nothing wrong with the ASP engine! The problem is that you americans try to run an high compression engine on too much nitro!
Use 0-5%nitro and you will see that the engine will run just fine.
Good glow plug is a OS 8 or Enya 3...as usual! No OS F plug is needed!

You guys think that "big Super Tigre" fuel would do better in his ASP?

Hi!
I mix my own fuel! That way you know what you get!

goirish,

It sounds like you are trying to pull or flip the prop through compression. Big engines will try to kill your hand if you do that. Here's what you do.

Choke until wet, then flip over 5 or 6 times to get the cylinder wet.

Hook up the battery, but never flip the prop through compression.

Turn the prop up against compression just like you normally would if you were flipping normally.

Then slap the prop or twirl the spinner BACKWARDS so the engine bounces against compression going backwards. If will fire instantly, kick back and start forwards.

Once you get the technique down, it's 1-flip starts most all the time.

Note: if the cylinder is wet, when you try to pull the prop through past top dead center, the engine is going to fire before you get to TDC. This will tend to start the engine backwards.

If you set the prop level when it against compression and were going to flip it normally, you hand would be open palm upwards so you could pull the prop 'over the top' past compression. This will get your hand killed. Put the prop up against compression just like that, but do not flip upwards, turn your hand over and slap the prop with your hand going underneath the crankshaft. I always use a leather glove, but have never been hit using this technique. You do have to slap the prop down & under pretty well.

Amish Warlord,

Big Tigre fuel was specifically made for the Super Tigre 2000, 2500 & 3000. It has a lower oil content. It used to be 12% to 14% oil, which is normally too low for other glow engines that have bushings on the connecting rods.

Your best bet is to use standard 5%-10% sport glow fuel.

Lower nitro means lower cost also. So that's good. I started buying 5% for my latest 2 large engines. I still use 15% on the other smaller engines.

Gene, I'm a member of the Ed Moorman school of flying so if Ed says to do something then try it.
On the flip side of that story I still wouldn't own an ASP or Magnum but that's just me.
Ed did steer me straight with the SK engines and I'm still happy as a lark with them. Only one failure and it was repaired under warranty.
Gene

Gorish

The ASP's and Magnums do run well with lower Nitro ( as do MOST high displacement glow engines ).

That said, the 1.08 runs with 15% too.

Don't let the discussion about fuel percentages cloud the real problem, which is getting your engine running and somewhat tuned in the first place.

Once you've run several tank fulls of fuel through it, you can start dealing with different fuel blends, etc.


All too often beginners tend to get sidetracked by every stated possiblity, instead of dealing with the real problem(s).

You can scrap out that engine and have peace back in your life.

Start by attaching a length of fuel tubing to the inlet nipple. Close the LSN to shut. Blow thru the fuel tubing until you hear air escaping and then open a tad further. This should get your engine started and allow you to adjust from there. Maybe you have a small piece of dirt or other foriegn object in the fuel system inside the carb?

I had the Magnum/ASP 108 on a GP Escapade 60 and it was running great until I lost all control and put it in the grond like a lawn dart. The plane was a total loss but the Magnum/ASP 108 looked like it was OK, just dirt in everyplace it could get into. I took the Magnum/ASP 108 home and into the shop and started cleaning it. I completely took it apart. I then put it back together and read this page about setting up the carb. I followed these instructions that you guys gave and the engine started right up. I am using Omega 10% full with a MAS Simintar 15x6 prop. I also have a evolution glow plug. I am getting over 11000RPM on a test stand and I think the engine is runnig better now then it was before. Thanks guys

Sorta like saying, "quit RC and have peace in your life...".

Resolving problems is half the fun.

Hey guys, got the new carb for my 108 and it runs like a champ. Only had to lean a couple of clicks on the LSN.. Don't know what was going on with the old carb but, who cares. Take it flying tomorrow. this is on my notre dame plane and the way they played yesterday they need some help. I guess I should post a picture of it. With the Big ND logo and the fightin Irish on the wing.

Since you now have a spare carb, try taking the old one apart and putting it back together carefully.

Along the way I'll bet you find the problem.

( I'm still guessing you have an obstruction of some sort in the old carb. )