Hi,

A few years ago a friend's grandfather gave me an old RC airplane. A friend of his had given it to him and he never figured out how to get it running, so I couldn't ask him for help teaching me. After playing around for a bit and not being able to get the nitro engine started, everything was retired to a shelf in my basement.

Now that a couple of years have passed, I feel more ready to fund (kinda) and figure out this plane. It is a Kyosho Trainer 40 (Calmato) with a 63" wingspan. The Engine is a Tower Hobbies .40 engine. Everything seems to be in really nice condition, when I originally started working with the plane, I replaced the batteries to both the controller (Futaba FP-T6NFK) and the plane with new ones from Futaba (for an arm and a leg to the younger me). The plane came with some assorted spare parts, an engine starter that I don't know how to use, a kit box (that the plane sits on), etc.

Today I took the engine completely apart (I'm slightly mechanically / caution minded) and cleaned everything as best I could. Then I replaced all of the fuel hosing and tried starting the engine by following the intructions in the engine manual. The engine seemed to want to start and even reved for almost a full second a few times, but then my hand and the chicken stick wore out. I'm pretty sure it didn't run fully because my glowplug battery might be worn out, the glowplug glowed a warm orange, not too bright. .

My budget isn't huge, at the absolute most I could maybe buy a replacement engine for this plane, but the idea is to try to get the existing stuff working if possible.

I'm going to keep posting progress or stagnation as I get to it, with the hope that I can get some advise and input from the community

Engine: http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...owg0040mnl.pdf
Plane: http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...almato40_m.pdf

Tomorrow I'm off to Hobby Town USA for some help and supplies, and I'll try to upload some pictures of my setup.<br type="_moz" />

How old was the fuel?  Glow fuel is good for seven or eight years sealed or less if opened.

The kit came with some fuel, but I bought a new case that's currently only three years old, and has been fairly well sealed. I might pick up some more tomorrow if Hobby Town has any small containers.

Before you buy anything, get in touch with a club. You'll spend more money and a lot more time replacing or working on things that don't need it or replacing twice the things you get wrong the first time than you will on club and AMA dues. If you showed up as a new student in my club with your situation, I'd take your batteries home with me to be tested on the cycler so you'd know if they were good, then I'd look your engine over and get it running with some of my own fuel if necessary, and then I'd do a test and trim flight for you. From there I'd take off and land for you and let you get some stick time, learning to make accurate turns and handle the wind, then teach you some basic aerobatics and takeoffs and landings. Along the way I'd probably explain how to do some repairs and possibly have you over to use my tools if needed. With a little talent you'd be flying on your own in 2-4 months with a solid foundation in piloting technique, airplane maintenance and inspection, and safety procedures. Option 2 is to go it alone and hope you get it right. Your plane will tell you when you don't by landing itself. The only problem is that the plane isn't particular about what angle it makes those automatic approaches or how fast it is going at the time.

I took the liberty of searching for clubs in your area on the AMA's website and there are numerous options for you.

http://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx

Awesome, thanks Jester! I'll make sure to go talk to one of the RC groups first.

BigBubbaX,

Going to a club and getting help is the best advice, BUT . . .

Unless there is something really broken, do not let anyone tell you that the Tower 40 is not a fine engine!!!! Today, there is a predjudice against the bushing engines with the air-bleed carbs. Make sure you find someone who actually knows how to run such an engine. Lots of guys will tell you they are weak and you need to by a Ball-Bearing engine.

I have three of the Tower 40 engines. It is one of the prettiest engines. One of mine is in a Midwest Aerostar trainer and the other is in a Sky Raider Mach II which is used in RCPRO Club 40 Sport Pylon Racing. This last Saturday, I loaned that plane to a gentleman who finished 3rd of 7 in our race.

Good luck to you.
Good luck to your budget.

Ken Erickson
RCPRO Club 40 Committee Chairman

Yes, there are some who want new flyers to buy the best stuff immediately or they lose interest in helping them. My first engine was a super tigre and the second time I was out I needed a little tuning help and the instructor suggested I replace it with an O.S! I don't suggest changes unless I see something that really won't work.

Which brings up another point to consider. Instructors are not created equal. There are widely varying levels of competence as pilots and teachers, and of course different personalities. If you get a guy that you can't understand or who won't or can't explain things to you, tactfully move on to someone else. Do understand that instructors are volunteers so they aren't exactly there to jump at your every whim (a word of appreciation goes a long way too, as does a box of doughnuts) but you should be able to get some nugget of learning out of every session with them. It also helps if you know what kind of learner you are and let the instructor know how to explain things to you the best way.

I'm glad I decided to look for rc forums online, thanks guys!<div></div><div>Along with the suggestion to not replace things, I sincerely hope not to (even if affording such things is inching closer to reality for me). Mostly because I have a small wish to show the plane working to my friend's grandfather. His family has been very friendly and supportive toward me, and I'd like to show my appreciation to them by not abandoning a project he asked me to finish, and having the original motor working is a fairly large part of that daydream.</div><div></div><div>Also, after having the motor apart yesterday to clean it, I waspleasantlysurprised by its mechanics, it reminds me of my dad's old manual transmission truckI think I'm enthralled with glow engines, even without ever having one working.</div><div></div><div>I do have a question about the engine now that I've found someone who has worked with them before:</div><div>Back in 2009 when I first tried to get the motor started, I noticed that when I pulled on the prop, a ~.5mm gap appeared between the prop backer and the engine housing. It played a part in me shelving the project, because I thought that the gap indicated something was broken. Yesterday I came to the conclusion that the gap merely allows oil to leak out of the gas and get on that spinning junction (a LOT of oil accumulated on the outside of the engine during my half hour of false starts..). Is that the case?</div>

A 1/2mm of play is nothing to be concerned about. A large amount of fuel leaking in that area is a concern but a minor amount seeping on to the engine is not unusual, especially if you have inadvertently flooded the case with fuel. If it leaks badly after you get a few tanks of fuel to run thru the engine, then you may want to replace the bearings (bushings on that engine).

Okay, cool.

I'm about to leave on a sailing trip, which will delay getting in contact with a RC group. In the meantime, I took some pictures of my plane.

Do you name planes?<br type="_moz" />

We sure do. That one looks like a Leroy to me.

One thing I noticed is that you have kwik links on the servos. Those are fine when they work, but the flexing in use sometimes can work them loose with rather unpleasant results. The big problem is that one that's about to fail looks exactly the same as one that is working fine, so they tend to surprise you. An L-bend with a plastic keeper or Z-bend are about as fail proof as you can get on linkages.

wrap that receiver in foam, the rattling will make it malfunction.
After fueling you can blow into the hose that is fitted to the muffler, this will/should start the fuel flow to the carb, you can also remove the needle valve to clear out any clogs, careful not to get fuel in your mouth. Needle valve likely needs to be open 3-4 turns to let enough fuel into the carb to run it.
Wise to change out the glow plug now too.
A little shot of fuel into the carb can help initial starts, carefull of what is in front of plane, you can such plastic bags or paper towl into the prop or curious pets...

Starters usually work best with spinners.
Chicken stick, and a leather glove works OK too.

Here is what you should get. <div>
</div><div>Being a NOOB, you will break props,  Get a MAS or APC nylon prop for the plane, you will thank yourself after digging the prop in on bad takeoff and landings and not spend a ton on new props. Once you get good at keeping the prop out of the dirt you can switch back to wood.  One of my friends has spent more in replacement props  than he spent on the plane. <div>
</div><div>Already mentioned, wrap that RX in foam. </div><div>
</div><div>If you can, get a good GP clip, and a starter.  New engines need the starter, you will have a hard time getting it started by hand until its broken in. </div></div><div>
</div><div>If you dont have one already, a stand for the plane is very helpful, one that can also be a flight box is even better, one that has a power panel even better. Most of them have a meter on it and a POT that you can adjust the amount of current to the GP and tell the condition of it. If you cant get it in the green  then the plug is bad. </div><div>
</div><div>Find out if there are any swap meets around, you can usually find these items in the cheap there. I picked up a few props, a field box that has a power panel, a 1 gallon fuel can,  fuel pump, and battery, it is a converted tool box with the panel on the top. I picked up a nearly new 90 starter, and a few other items and it all cost me under $50. I did have to replace the battery as it was too weak to spin the starter, but fired up the GP and pump OK.  I modified it a bit by switching out the alligator clips and 18 gauge wires to the panel with 12 gauge wire and battery lugs along with a power switch between the battery and panel.  The box holds my starter, GP clip, some spare props, prop wrench, chicken stick, gallon fuel can, fuel pump and other small items I might need, and everything is inside except the panel and switch which are on top.  </div><div>
</div><div>You dont need new and top of the line to enjoy this hobby, that motor you have will be just fine, take care of it, break it in right and you will use it for a long time.  I dont know about the radio though since all mine are 2.4 but my friends still fly airtronics from 20+ years ago. Other than the starter kit, you look like you have everything you need to get in the air. </div>

Awesome, thanks for the replies!

I googled kwik links and came up with something similar to the little silver part that attaches the control rods to the servo arm. Correct? I'll be sure to replace them before getting off the ground

The reciever and battery have foam pouches that I removed to test the servos a while back Again, it will probably be a bit before this thing is flying, I'm just trying to get everything working first.

I do have a field box, though its version of a power panel is two D cell batteries. . . I'll upload a picture when I get back. . I also have a few "plastic" props that are the right size. I've also got two starters, but they tear against the compression stroke of the plane so hard that they fly out of my hand. . . And I bought a rechargable GP (glow plug, right?) starter when I bought new batteries for the plane.

The engine is by no means new (well, only to me). I'm pretty sure the plane saw a lot of use from the original owner. I am following the 'break in' procedure outlined in the engine manual (link in first post) to try to start the engine. . . Which means I have the throttle screw turned out three turns.<br type="_moz" />

I don't see a spinner in front of the prop on the plane, is it just removed for the pic, or are you trying to start the motor by pressing the starter against the prop? If this is what you are doing, DON'T!!!!! Get a spinner or at least a prop nut large enough to fill the cone on the starter.

A little locktite takes care of this, but if you want to be doubly sure, just use collets behind every kwik link.

I've only ever had one Kwik Link come loose, but that was because I forgot to put lock-tite on it.... still I often use the collets to be sure.

:P<div>I removed the spinner to clean fuel that leaked while i was trying to start the plane.</div><div>
</div>

Sure, the collets and locktite will work to keep them from slipping. But why make it so complicated? An L-bend with a keeper is practically indestructible and requires no tools to remove. The only place where I would say the kwik links are actually a better method is on a throttle where we rarely get the pushrod length right the first time and it can be difficult to get the clevis off of the carburetor.

They don't have to be... you can forgo the collets if you wish. I suggested them just for added safety...


While I like "L" bends too, I've actually have had MORE problems with "L" bends flipping off even with a keeper in place, than I've had with quick links.


The keeper gives, breaks or gets pushed back and it pops off letting the L bend slip out... I've had this happen on large planes...

I think that Kwik links are getting undue bad raps. A bit more TLC ( and Lock-tite ) would eliminate problems.




Kwik Links above...


But of course do whatever works for you best!

I have yet to have any problems with the plastic ones like your pic, but I have had one of the metal ones get loose and slip off of the pushrod threads. A gentle crimp with some pliers and a drop of CA cured the problem. Fortunately, this was on the aileron of my 1/4 scale cub. If it had been the elevator, it could have been a sad day!

You have a choice learn the hard way or find a club that will take you through the learning curve. A club will save you money and aggrevation. For those who have made the comment wrap the receiver in foam BS. The receiver needs to be secured to the airframe using hook and loop velcro tape. I been flying nitro powered helicopters and you don't wrap the receiver in foam and stuff it into the airframe.

BAD CALL, YES SECURED, BUT NEVER HARD MOUNTED, WORST ADVICE EVER. HELIS MAYBE MORE GENTLE ON AIRFRAME VIBRATION, NEVER ON AIRPLANES.
PLEASE EDIT YOUR POST. ITS WRONG.PERIOD, EXCEPT FOR THE SEEKING CLUB COMMENT.

Heap, wrap it and secure it.

The newer 2.4 RX can be hook looped in some planes, but should be wrapped in planes that have strong vibrations, the hook loop tape will transmit the vibrations to the RX. The further back in the plane the better, but for the RX the OP has, WRAP IT!

Simply put, if you can feel vibrations with your hand where the RX is when the engine is running, so does your RX.