mniesen89

I've tried looking but I've got a lot of unanswered questions about fuel.

1. What's really the difference between 10 and 30% nitro?

2. How do you know what fuel works best with what size engine? Ex. Should a .40 use 10% 15% or 30% fuel and why.

3. Is there a brand that is more suitable then another.

4. Am I limited to getting this from my local hobby shop or forced to order online at extremely high shipping costs. Is there somewhere else I can get nitro at a better deal?

thanks in advance!

mike

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Generally, nitro content is not really important to our smaller engines - 40 to, oh, 1.20 two strokes (the largest I have is 1.20 and I use the same fuel for that as I do for my .46's). I use the same fuel on all my engines. The nitro content is what's available, and I believe what I have here is 10% nitro. The more important component is the oil content. We usually recommend 20% mix - part castor and part synthetic. That is what you can usually buy.

As far as brand names are concerned, well, some swear by one brand and others swear by others. I prefer S&W because it's easy to get in my area, I buy it in bulk - case lots, four gallons per case. Some swear by Cool Power, and others - well, you get the idea.

See what the LHS has, it probably has 20% oil content, with a percentage of nitro methane. The more nitro methane, the more expensive it will be. And, it will not matter much in the performance of our smaller engines, so get what's available and don't worry about nitro content.

Some folks mix their own. That's fine too, it is not rocket science, but you do need access to all of the components. That's why most of us buy it by the gallon from the local hobby shop.

CGr,

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Take a look at this thread in this forum, mainly the first post:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11346506

There is some pretty good info on fuel - and other RC related stuff.

CGr.

mniesen89

I did read the article althought it didn't really answer the questions as CG did.

Now when I flew years ago 8 remember using 10% but do not remember "mixing" anything....I just remember buying the pink stuff and fueling the plane. Has something changed where I need an additive now?

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Perhaps you misunderstood or I didn't explain it correctly. You don't have to mix anything. Some people do, but that's their choice. What you buy at the LHS will work just fine. Don't waste your money on high nitro content fuel. It is not necessary.

CGr.

downunder

To try to answer your questions, all engines will work perfectly well using just methanol and oil. Nitro has the added benefit of allowing the engine to produce more power although at the expense of higher fuel consumption. It also makes tuning easier because it gives a larger range of adjustment where the engine will run satisfactorily. In some cases it can make the engine easier to start although that shouldn't be a problem if using an electric starter. Virtually all engines can handle up to around 15-20% nitro but more than that and you could start running into problems such as blowing plugs regularly. For sport flying it's best to use the minimum amount of nitro you feel happy with. In other words, the engine starts easily, idles well and has adequate power for the model to do all you want.

As far as brands of fuel go, and I base this on reading their specifications because I make my own fuel, there are some that seem to be good and others I wouldn't touch with a barge pole . The major difference is oil content (and type of oil). IMO a fuel that's labelled as having at least 20% oil with a good content of that being castor is a fuel I'd consider using.

mniesen89

Thanks all, that definitely clears it up.

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

You may have trouble finding a fuel with 20% oil. All the ones I've used (Cool Power, Omega, Byron's) have 16 or 17 percent, which is fine. I use Cool Power because the oil is all synthetic, which leaves your engine cleaner. Except for special cases (like 1/2A engines) you don't need castor oil.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

post what motor you are running and its easier to suggest nitro content for you.

jester_s1

You really can't go wrong with a natural / synthetic castor blend 10% nitro fuel. Omega is a very popular version of this (the pink stuff) with a number of others just as good. More nitro can give you more power if the engine is set up for it.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

1/2 of my fleet is still nitro fuel, I check with my LHS on orders and shipping to make sure there is always a gallon or 2 reserve for me, in store as backup.

Most 2 strokes .50 CID will run well on 15%
Some 4 strokes like 20% or better with 20% oil
Most YS like 30% nitro/ 20% oil
Bigger 2 strokes like OS 1.60 and Moki 1.8 -2.1 or Supertiger will be happy with 0 to 10% nitro, less oil

Gasoline engines are different, do not use these # at all please.

Hossfly

Nitro Methane, the "nitro" in comercial model aircraft glow-plug engines is an oxidizer. For a given compression ratio, nitro induces combustion earlier like an advanced set of points in an ignition engine. Early combustion creates more power. The engine gets more tempermental and NV settings more critical.
10% nitro means that 10% of the fuel is Nitro Methane, commonly known as a rather cool fuel. 30% means that there is 30% by volume of the fuel is Nitro Methane. Some have worked with nitro ethane but that generally is more difficult and sensitive than Nmethane. Once one gets beyond 40% Nitro Methane, operation does become rather sensitive. I have pylon-raced at 70% nitro, 10% methanol, and 20% oil. Not easy as the needle is set to blow the glow-plug at about the last half of the 10Th (final )lap. Didn't always work!. [&o]

Not a function of the engine displacement. Nitro should be based on the timing of the engine, compression ratio, and the job for which it is to be used. In the US, 50% + nitro may well be used to attain speed where as in Europe, and nitro not being allowed in speed events, the use of 25:1 and higher compression ratios get the job done for speed. Using sport props in compression ratios of 8:1 to 12:1 or about, nitro above 20% is, IMO, a waste of time and effort.
If one fuel was always the best, then there would only be ONE fuel.

As someone above stated, whatever you like. Some think that higher price mens greater fuel performance. I prefer Wild Cat because the mix WAS always the same as quoted on the label. Now that a certain distributor has control of Wild Cat, it seems to be like others. The one thing I do look for is fuel with at least 18% oil which is 80% synthetic and 20% Castor Oil.
If I were still into racing, then that would require different mixes.

I have a source where I purchase a number of cases usually once a year. Check it out. I pass through the area once a year back and forth. I load up the truck.

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding where to purchase fuel - ask around at your local clubs. Around here it is common for clubs to make a bulk fuel purchase directly from a fuel manufacturer once a year. The cost of fuel at the local hobby shops around here has gotten stupid.

Hydro Junkie

One thing that has been overlooked so far is oil content that is too low. If there are lots of nitro buggies on the shelf at your local hobby shop, be very cautious of buying fuel as many shops tend to carry fuel for what they sell and, unfortunately, most car fuels run in the 7-12% range, too low for either a plane or boat engine. Something else to be aware of is some fuel manufacturers don't even list the oil type or content of their product on the label. Unless you're willing to take the time to do some research on the fuel being sold, if it don't say how much or what kind of oil is used in the mix on the label, protect your engine and dont buy it

mniesen89

Thanks again guys for the answers and advice...definitely gave me some research to do and pice of mind.

mustange1

My Feedback: (11)

Just buy the so called pink stuff and during the summer months run down to wally world and get some castor oil its in the pharmacy side and add some to your fuel . It absolutely keeps temps down on those two strokers in the summer. And you can add some to the four stroke fuel as well its good insurance if you tune one wrong and helps from locking the engine up.

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

I ran red max 10% for years with 18% full synthetic oil. Never had any glow motor that didnt run well on it. If you dont know how to tune a glow motor higher nitro will mask your ineptitude. That is why a lot of guys buy higher nitro fuel. Nitro is the most expensive ingredient, followed by oil, guess what, most fuel manufacturers will short you on. That is also why you see the trend towards less oil. Red max was great fuel. But i dont burn enough glow fuel anymore to warrant ordering it. I have an enya 40 that has over20 gallons through it and you can still see the crosshatches in the cylinder.

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

A lot may depend on the area of the country you live in and how the fuel has been stored before you buy it. My LHS stores the gallon jugs on an open shelf unit, which is not good. I'm sure they don't stay there for more than a month or so, but when I buy from him, I try to catch him when the new boxes come in and he hasn't had a chance to open them yet. That being said, I have tried Cool power, Wildcat, Omega, and O'donnel all purchased from his store in 10% and 15% nitro.
I like the Omega and the Wildcat the best, I seem to have less midrange tuning problems with these fuels. May be something I'm doing, I don't know, I just know what works. Cool Power is ok, I'll buy it if he doesn't have the other's. O'donnel does not like me or my tuning habits for some reason, I won't buy anymore of it. Just my 2c here in West TN.

OliverJacob

My Feedback: (12)

I use Byron's 15% castor / synthetic blend and all my engines run great.
So I use this on a variety of glow engines, 2 stroke form .15 to .90 and my four strokes form .70 to 1.20. and a helicopter as well.

There are a lot of discussions, about brands and mixtures. I have not had any engine problems, and if I take one apart, there is almost no deposit to find. Everything is tight and no wear to see. So I guess I'll stick with it.

acdii

I did some research on the fuels normally stocked at my LHS's.  They carry Omega, Cool Power and a few other brands, along with Wildcat. Of all of them, Wildcat was the only one that comes with 18-20% oil content. Its full synthetic except for the 20% Heli blend.  I have been using that stuff now and have gone through 3 gallons along with my friends using 4, and not a single problem out of 5 different engines of different displacements using  the 15%N/18% oil mix. It is also a couple buck less expensive.

Both my Magnums recommend 15% Nitro with at least 18% oil content, Castor blend recommended for break in, but the Wildcat worked fine for that, and I am pretty sure they use Klotz oil.  If you can find Wildcat, you can't go wrong with it. I get it for about $16 a gallon.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you are ready to go with the great advice, the only thin g I could add is welcome back.

harve28

Go to ebay and search torco fuels you can get a 4 gallon case shipped for around 105.00 shipped to your door. This is all i fly with now in my helis no trouble what so ever. Good luck!






Build to fly, not crash!

Warbird40

My Feedback: (24)

What has worked great for me is mixing my own. I buy 5 gallons of pure methanol for $23 and 1 gallon of Sig castor oil for $31 shipped and mix it 80% meth/20% oil (no nitro) and run it in the following:
OS 40FP, OS 40LA, Super Tigre 40, Magnum XLS46 and Rossi 45. I add a splash of Acetone to aid in the idle and run my engines with a Hot plug (OS 6 or OS 8). So for less than $60 I get 5 gallons of glow fluel. You can buy pure methanol from any company that carries oils or diesel fuels or any high performance race shop. I cant tell the difference between my mix and any major brand.

lopflyers

My Feedback: (12)

I use 4C3000mAh. LOL, the dark side.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Oh yeah?

I rubber band all my models!