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Old 05-25-2017 | 04:35 PM
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I think Steve has given you all the required good information. A good field box with a starter panel is in order if you are going flying. You will be surprised at how much you will want to carry around. All engines are counter clockwise running unless specifically ordered as a clockwise engine usually used on twin engine models. A decent starter will plug into panel and save allot of heartache. I have a motorcycle batteray 12Volt in my box and I can start just about anything and also field charge my reciever batteries or ingnition batteries. Definatly have an experienced pilot with you for your first flight. Good luck ,Ray
Old 05-25-2017 | 05:04 PM
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I'll agree that good equipment is needed, but I have to disagree about the power panel. I've never owned one. I started with a motorcycle battery for my starter and built a box that could carry it around. I got tired of that cord soon enough though, and switched to batteries mounted to my starter. The first was a NiCd pack at 14v. The second was a 14.4 lipo. The attached battery is so much easier to manage and safer too. If the OP happens to have a battery around that he can use that's no problem, but if he's buying all new stuff it's worth the investment to get a 3000 mah (or more) 14.4 lipo and attach it to the starter along with a basic computerized charger (needed for other things too).
Old 05-25-2017 | 06:19 PM
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Power Panel the Movie:


Old 05-25-2017 | 07:22 PM
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Geez, that is a pretty negative thought against power panels. I don't know where the hostility is coming from. I have one, and it works nicely controling my fuel pump, charging the Tx and Rx at the field so I can get a few more flights, plugging in my starter. Guess some people just don't like them. I've had no trouble with mine and wouldn't be without it.
Old 05-26-2017 | 03:16 AM
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I didn't mean to be hostile at all. My only point was that I think there are better options now. Power panels were a good solution when the lead-acid battery was the only practical solution for powering our starters. But now we have different technology that solves some of the problems with power panels. I like the newer options better.
Old 05-26-2017 | 03:53 AM
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The OPs issues seem to extend further than a "power panel". No need to make his life any more difficult.
Old 05-26-2017 | 05:31 AM
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Hmm seems no one could see the humor in my dumb little vidio concerning my opinion on the usefulness of power panels for new folks.

Power panels have been sold to unknowing new folks for many years and few bother to tell them there are first quite dangerous This particularly so if one uses two umbilical cords (one for glow ignition and one for starter) I have witnessed far two many accidents over the years using this combo. And in addition far to many new folks and even some experienced ones are tempted to increase the glow current when an engine is being cranky. Of course that results in a rather high cost of wasted burned out glow plugs.

Tom I am sure it works fine for you but agine just in my opinion I feel it best to get new (glow) folks started off with the type of side line equipment that most do usually end up using and is safer. The is no reason at all anymore to use any umbilicals for starting glow engines.

John
Old 05-26-2017 | 05:56 AM
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OK, now I get it. When I think about, as a kid I use to buy one of big tall 1.5 volt lead acid batteries for starting. Lasted about a season and a half. To pull this back to the OP question. Keeping it simple would be better.
Old 05-26-2017 | 09:26 AM
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Memory pick your brand, I'll shut up now. Oh anybody besides myself and one other think maybe Snipedoggys been spoofing us all here and his other thread?

RadiolaGuy.com : Vintage Radio & Vintage radio batteries
Old 05-26-2017 | 12:05 PM
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Was thinking the same thing.
Old 05-26-2017 | 12:35 PM
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Jacob, it sounds to me as if you probably have congealed lubricant in the engine and needle valve. I would suggest that the engine has been sitting in the distribution chain and the lubricant had congealed. I would flush the engine, remove the glo plug, I use carb cleaner in a spray can to clear the mess out of the engine and oil well afterward. Also make sure the needle valve is clear, using the carb cleaner to blow through it and a wire if necessary. If it is a throttle engine, I would clean the throttle as well. The bearings are probably loaded up too but once it runs, the heat and fuel will clear them. Hope this helps. Bob
Old 05-26-2017 | 01:52 PM
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Seems that way.
There is another new user that has been asking very vague questions on several forums.
Who knows !
Old 05-27-2017 | 05:19 AM
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Ok guys the engine is sounding very healthy while cranking, she sounds like it wants to start and I think I need a glow plug igniterhttp://m.ebay.ca/itm/New-HSP-1-2-V-1800MAH-Rechargeable-Glow-Plug-Igniter-and-Charger-/162504647353?hash=item25d60822b9%3Ag%3ABGQAAOSwy-5XMf3w&_trkparms=pageci%253Aa586cdb0-42dd-11e7-8ce0-74dbd180bfc7%257Cparentrq%253A4a0631f815c0abc11537 50f7fffeecb2%257Ciid%253A17

would this one do?

Also so my problem with fuel getting to the engine is fixed I adjusted the needle and yea I also have a starter motor sorry if I didn't say that, I looked on the motor today and it only says ASP on the right side facing the engine
Old 05-27-2017 | 05:38 AM
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That glow driver will work fine. You really should be able to get it going with the driver you have though Prime the engine to make sure some fuel is in the crankcase, then go down to about 1/4 throttle and start it. As long as you don't over prime and flood it, it should start right up.
Old 05-27-2017 | 05:48 AM
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Double thread merged, and unneeded posts removed.
Old 05-27-2017 | 11:53 AM
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Snipedog is the engine mounted in an airplane??? If so make darn sure it is secured some how (do not try to start by yourself and just holding with the other hand) next do you have a way to operate the throttle" you can do it with the RC system or you can do it manually by operating a push rod to the engine.

Now before operating that starter and you need a helper since its necessary to push the starter hard aginst the engine/airplane and will want to roll backwards. You need to keep both of your hands on the starter (this is A biggie). Now do not just push the starter aginst the prop and pull the trigger. First move the prop backwards till its just up aginst the compression (clockwise) now apply the starter cone to the prop or spinner and only hit the trigger when you are lining up the starters motor shaft with the prop shaft of the engine and pushing hard.

John
Old 06-07-2017 | 11:25 AM
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This original poster hasn't had activity since 6/01/17. Hopefully the guy is alright. These scenarios are dangerous. We've seen it too many times. Best advice given is to find someone with experience for a hands-on lesson. We also know these types of engines will readily and easily start with a few flips of a chicken-stick or a bump of a starter when they're reasonably set up. The hardest part is when someone with no experience is hell bent on doing it on their own. Hopefully the guy learned something... even more hopefully it wasn't literally a painful lesson. An ASP 40-46 can easily do alot of damage in about a second if a user is caught off guard.
Old 06-07-2017 | 11:52 AM
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Hey ,I don't know if this was mentioned before,but it definitly sounds like your main berring is locked up. You can try taking it out,and soak it in gas for a little bit and see if it loosens up. It you turn the berring and if it feels gritty,then its shot. Check the front berring also.
Old 06-07-2017 | 06:58 PM
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I think the OP has moved on, but for others' sake I'll comment on the bearing advice above. Never remove an engine bearing and then reinstall it. The removal process is likely to damage either the balls or the races of the bearing, rendering it useless. If a pilot thinks a bearing is glued up with varnish, a good fuel soak, crock pot cleaning, and/or heat will loosen it up without needing to remove it.
Old 06-08-2017 | 11:22 AM
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Well I choose to disagree my friend, I did this to lots of engines and there all running well, You can remove a berring,but you have to know how. I never had a problem. I have the right tools to do so. I have a press and a precision punch tool that will slowly remove the berring without damage. If you have an engine and the only thing that is wrong is a bad main berring,you have 2 choices, Either pull the berring and replace it,or send it out for repair,which will cost as much as a new motor. Anyway,this is only my opinion.
Old 06-09-2017 | 11:38 AM
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I don't want to sound mean or anything but looking at when you joined and and how you tried to flip your engine in reverse, makes it sound like your pretty new to the hobby and trying to go at it alone with a nitro power plane let alone a electric one. Sounds like you need a good local club and rc mentor to help you out. How is your fuel tank plumbed? 2 or 3 tubes? with a electric if you crash you have foam to repair. If your engine is not running right and you try to solo a plane and never have and you get into flying trouble you'll be bringing back a lot of kindling to start your grill.
Old 06-10-2017 | 05:41 AM
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Hi Phantom Blue, I will second Jesters opinion that removing a bearing may damage it. This is if a press is used to remove it as the outer race of the bearing is being pushed out by the ball bearings that are being pressed on by the inner race. Sometimes you can get the bearing to drop out by gingerly smacking the crankcase on a piece of wood or similar non marring surface, but usually the bearing is "glued" in with dried castor. Not trying to start an argument, just going by past experience here

Calvi

Last edited by Calvinman; 06-10-2017 at 05:42 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 06-10-2017 | 06:16 AM
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It sounds like we may have a misunderstanding, Phantom. It's common practice for people to install new bearings when the old ones go bad. I didn't mean people shouldn't do that. I meant that removing a bearing can damage that bearing, and so once one is removed it should be thrown away and a new one installed. The design of ball bearings makes then strong against side loads, but very weak against shearing loads. I suppose if one uses the method of heating the crankcase and letting the bearing fall out there wouldn't be a problem, but even then I don't see the point in putting one back in that was varnished up. Chances are pretty good that there will be some wear in the races anyway even in the bearing spins freely, so why not spend the $8.99 for a new one and be sure it's right?
Old 06-10-2017 | 06:30 AM
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How did we get from "engine wont turn on" to changing bearings? As far as helping a noobie start his engine, I think this thread is dead.
Old 06-10-2017 | 11:42 AM
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I respect everyones opinion whole hartly, This is how we learn in this hobby. We all have to try new ideas. I also learned alot reading all these posts, I guess I like to try everything possible,even if it might seem like a bad idea.

Last edited by F4 Phantom blue angles; 06-10-2017 at 11:45 AM.


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