Transmitter configuration
#1
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From: Claude,
TX
Hello, let me try and explain this. The transmitter is very sensitive to inputs. You only have to move the stick half way to the throws all the way engaged. For example, it only takes half throttle to open the carb all of the way.
The transmitter is a fly sky i6. Can you please tell me where to look to fix this?
Thanks Chris
The transmitter is a fly sky i6. Can you please tell me where to look to fix this?
Thanks Chris
#2

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Here is the link to download the manual.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/8bvejk...ish_Manual.pdf
what you are looking for is on page 29, 17.02 End points.
I'm sure there are videos on YouTube on how yo adjust the end points, it works the same on all radios all brands.
happy readings
http://www.mediafire.com/view/8bvejk...ish_Manual.pdf
what you are looking for is on page 29, 17.02 End points.
I'm sure there are videos on YouTube on how yo adjust the end points, it works the same on all radios all brands.
happy readings
Last edited by CARS II; 12-01-2017 at 03:52 PM.
#3

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From: Sailing in the Eastern Caribbean
You might look at a mechanical solution by moving the pushrod out on the operating arm or horn.
I am not familiar with your tranny but almost all computer trannys offer a thing called exponential check to see if that is activated.It can give the effect you describe.
I am not familiar with your tranny but almost all computer trannys offer a thing called exponential check to see if that is activated.It can give the effect you describe.
#4

My Feedback: (2)
Always try to set up your throws mechanically first and use the Tx for fine tuning. Example, make sure all your servo horns (except throttle) are at right angles to the pushrods first so you have equal throw both ways. Then you can fine tune with your radio. You can decrease of increase throw by placing the pushrod on the inner or outer most hole on the servo horn or control surface horn. Get familiar with setting up your surfaces correctly mechanically and you will find it much easier to fine tune with the TX.
#6
For throttles, I'm a fan of turning down the end point adjustment to about 1/2 on the low end and up all the way on the high end. Then I adjust the servo horn and linkages to work properly with that range, adding throw to the low end if needed to get enough travel. That will mean 1/2 stick will give you 1/4 -1/3 throttle, which is just about right for a linear RPM response. Setting it up that way gives you finer control over the lower throttle settings, which is nice for getting your landings right. Of course, that's with engine equipped planes. I just set up for linear control on electrics.
#7
I'm with doing the mechanical changes first. It sounds like you have them in the wrong place. Moving in on the servo or out on the control surface horn reduces the end point. Likewise moving out on the servo or in on the control surface horn increase the endpoint. The best way to do this is to set the transmitter to it's maximum deflection and adjust where you connect the pushrods.
#8
The old school way was to set the servo arm pointing straight back (or nearly so) at the closed position. That's assuming the throttle is closed by pulling back; the other type would be set up straight forward. Idle speed would be set with the pushrod length, which was the most precise way to do it given how inaccurate servos were 40 years ago. That setup gave the secondary benefit of throttle exponential, which the method I described above also does. I personally think that spending time getting the mechanical linkage just so on a throttle isn't worth it since servos are so much more precise these days and there is no concern at all for torque or resolution on a throttle. It's different on a control surface, but with throttles let things be easy if they can.
#10
This works for control surfaces as well.
If you have altered the endpoints or exponential reset to factory settings which should be 0 for exponential and 100% for end points.
Disconnect the control rod at the servo.
Turn on transmitter then receiver and move stick to the centre position.
Adjust servo arm so it is 90 degrees to the direction of travel of the control rod. This will allow equal movement on each side of this centre position in direct relation to the stick movement.
Move the control rod to the outer most hole in the throttle arm or if its a control surface the outer most hole on the control horn.
In the case of the throttle arm move the arm back and forth to see where the centre of movement would be. Depending on the angle your control rod goes by the arm you may have to adjust it so its as close to 90 degrees in the centre position between open and closed. With a control surface just use a couple of close pins and small pieces of wood to hold the control surface in line with the fixed surface. Steering on vehicles hold the wheels straight.
Now adjust the clevis until it drops into the servo arm closest hole to the pivot point. (this is only a start)
Move the stick fully one way then the other and observe the movement. It should be equal distant each side of the 90 degree point at the throttle/control surface end. If by chance its travelling to far and you have no more holes to move the control rod in at the servo end or out and the other end you will have to reduce the end point via the transmitter. More likely there will not be enough movement.
Not moving enough move the control rod out one hole at a time on the servo arm until full travel is reached. If you reach the last hole and need even more movement then start to move the rod in at the throttle arm or control horn until the right amount of movement is attained. In some cases one might need extra long servo arms to attain the amount of movement needed.
Dennis
If you have altered the endpoints or exponential reset to factory settings which should be 0 for exponential and 100% for end points.
Disconnect the control rod at the servo.
Turn on transmitter then receiver and move stick to the centre position.
Adjust servo arm so it is 90 degrees to the direction of travel of the control rod. This will allow equal movement on each side of this centre position in direct relation to the stick movement.
Move the control rod to the outer most hole in the throttle arm or if its a control surface the outer most hole on the control horn.
In the case of the throttle arm move the arm back and forth to see where the centre of movement would be. Depending on the angle your control rod goes by the arm you may have to adjust it so its as close to 90 degrees in the centre position between open and closed. With a control surface just use a couple of close pins and small pieces of wood to hold the control surface in line with the fixed surface. Steering on vehicles hold the wheels straight.
Now adjust the clevis until it drops into the servo arm closest hole to the pivot point. (this is only a start)
Move the stick fully one way then the other and observe the movement. It should be equal distant each side of the 90 degree point at the throttle/control surface end. If by chance its travelling to far and you have no more holes to move the control rod in at the servo end or out and the other end you will have to reduce the end point via the transmitter. More likely there will not be enough movement.
Not moving enough move the control rod out one hole at a time on the servo arm until full travel is reached. If you reach the last hole and need even more movement then start to move the rod in at the throttle arm or control horn until the right amount of movement is attained. In some cases one might need extra long servo arms to attain the amount of movement needed.
Dennis




