Is there any point...
#1
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From: Alexandria, VA
... in putting the nice ball links and horns on a plane that I'm going to be training with? Or is it more jewelry than anything else and I should just use the stuff that comes with the kit?
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From: Rockwall,
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1st what's your trainer gonna be. If your building (read not an ARF) and plan on this plane lasting a really long time go with the "Jewelry". If It's an arf or low end trainer or your on a tight budget use what's supplied with the kit/ARF. Either way it will fly with the proper rigging and a little help. Bottom line, it's really a personal choice with any model. As you gain experience you will learn what works best for you.
PS Crashem usually has good advise! RIGHT ON CRASHEM!!
PS Crashem usually has good advise! RIGHT ON CRASHEM!!
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From: Alexandria, VA
Nope - actually there's some love in this next plane! I'm building a Goldberg Tiger 60 with my own loving fingers. My solo was in '94, but there will definitely be some RElearning here. My first was an ARF, and after building the rudder, horizontal stab, and 95% of the wing, and having covered the rudder and horizontal stab I have more effort into this plane than throwing together the ARF and all the time learning to solo.
I plan on being very VERY careful when I first go out - probably gonna stay on the trainer for longer than is reall neccesary...
I plan on being very VERY careful when I first go out - probably gonna stay on the trainer for longer than is reall neccesary...
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From: Grants Pass, OR
No harm in doing it but probably a little overkill for a trainer and the type of flying you will be doing with it. The usual pushrods and clevis will work just fine, although I tend to get better quality one's than those that come in most kits. Ball links usually are used on the higher performance--acrobatic model where greater strength and precision is required. Otherwise.. go for it.
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From: coal township, PA
Hi Crashem:
I say absolutely YES! I find the tighter the control linkages the better the plane will fly. Use the best quality horns and clevises that you can afford. You will be pleased with the results. I will add my favorite trick. When using plastic tube in tube nyrods I take 2-56 allthread. And at the ends of the rod I use a chordless drill with a keyless chuck to screw a long length of all thread into the nyrod. Make sure the allthread will go all the way into the fusalage or in past the outer casing on the inside. Just make sure there is no binding and you are set. You will be amazed at the difference this makes. As I said go for it.
Mark Shuman
I say absolutely YES! I find the tighter the control linkages the better the plane will fly. Use the best quality horns and clevises that you can afford. You will be pleased with the results. I will add my favorite trick. When using plastic tube in tube nyrods I take 2-56 allthread. And at the ends of the rod I use a chordless drill with a keyless chuck to screw a long length of all thread into the nyrod. Make sure the allthread will go all the way into the fusalage or in past the outer casing on the inside. Just make sure there is no binding and you are set. You will be amazed at the difference this makes. As I said go for it.
Mark Shuman
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From: east coast
I have found in my very limited experience, I perfer the "no slop" in the controls when using ball links. Probably doesn't help anything. I can't seem to keep a plane flying more than a week or two anyway!!!



