AdNauseam

Greetings,

I got some ca glue in my hinges. [:@] It’s very hard to move the elevator now and it makes an awful noise when you do move it (like an old door that needs oil) and the hinges don’t move freely. I hooked it up to the servo, and the servo is able to move the elevator up and down but, like I said, it makes an awful noise. Does anybody have any ideas (besides don't put ca in the hinges) on how to get ca out of hinges so they will move freely ?

Thanks……

aimmaintenance

You don't.
Unfortunately you'll probably have to cut them out and reglue new ones in.
Even if your servo will move it, battery drain, movement speed etc will be affected.
Next time try using epoxy for the hinge pin type. CA for the solid nylon hinges that don't have a pin.

Kaos Rulz

AdNauseam,

What type of hinges are we talking about? If they're the hinged type with a pin, try a toothbrush and a little (very little) acetone. Scrub at the hinge line and try to keep as much of the acetone out of the wood as possible as it will loosen/remove the CA. For future reference, you should not be using CA on pinned type of hinges. Either use epoxy or a poly glue.

If the hinges are the CA type (flat, porous paper), you'll have to cut them out and re-apply

Hope this helps

Mighty Mouse-RCU

My Feedback: (145)

Like Ed asked, it sort of depends on the hinges. I would just move them back and forth and keep doing it as you build. The CA should wear off with the friction.

iflynething

I have just put the hinges in my Somethin' Extra, and they too make the sound. I am not using the ACTUAL hinges, like Robart makes that are very long and stuff, just the paper looking kind. I put mind in and they too make the sound like I said like you are hearing. But, I know that mine are because of the little slit in the middle is rubbing either the leading edge of something or the trailing edge of something. Like on the horizontal stab with the elevaters, I have some of the hinges that the slit in the middle will rub against the trailing edge of the stab. And some others that rub on the leading edge of the elevator.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI AD! If you got thin ca in the hinge/pin area try the acetone tip . In the future, if you pre lube the hinge pin area you can even get away with pushing medium CA into the hinge slots. I don't bother with epoxy, poly [GORILLA] glue works. It pays to roughen the plastic on the hinge tabs. After the hinges are installed I cross drill and pin the hinges in with a round toothpick. I have a small pair of dikes that I ground to a single bevel cutting edge, and it cuts the excess toothpick off perfectly flush.

AdNauseam

Wow, thanks for the replies. Sheepishly, I don’t know what acetone is , so I just cut out the hinges (pin type), which were pretty easy to cut out. Apparently I got more ca in the hinges than I did on the tabs or in the slots. Which lead me into another question.

How do you go about gluing in hinges? Is there some special technique? Do you put some glue in the slots and then put the hinges in or do you put some on the hinges and then push the hinges in the slots. I tried using some epoxy for the rudder, it worked out pretty well but a little got in the hinges anyway, the provided instructions were no help.

iflynething

Look at the "How-To" (under "Magazine" at the top) for putting in the Robart hinges.........I'm sure that you will find that. This might help you..........................if you happent to have cable internet, then you can watch the video that I think is more helpful..........Hope this Helps

AdNauseam

Sweet, thanks.....

iflynething

Anytime..............sure thing.........

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Read this one too for CA hinges:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=55

RichLockyer

That slit is supposed to go the other way. It's purpose is to help carry the glue INTO the control surface and trailing edge. It's not supposed to be parallel with the edges.

RichLockyer

One of my coolest finds was at a local electronics shop. Originally intended for lubrication, but it will work for epoxy...

Syringes with blunt "needles". The needles are about an inch long.
If your t/e and control surface are solid or if they are built-up but the hinge mounts to a solid area (like it should), you can suck some 30-minute up into the syringe and deposit it into the BOTTOM of the hinge slot.

Before the epoxy has a chance to cure, suck up some alcohol repeatedly... one syringe/needle should be good for one or two building sessions.

iflynething

I hate when people tell me different things....not to say that they are wrong.....but I have already put the hinges and everything in......so there is really no turning back now....unless I would want to cut the out.......one thing that I don't want to do.......but I will find out soon enough wetither I did them the right way.......i'll just learn from my mistakes.........LOL.....I always do..!!!!!

RichLockyer

Didn't the kit instructions show how they are supposed to go in? I only have a couple of SIG kits (King Kobra and Wonder)... I'm pretty sure the Kobra plans detail the hinge installation.

Or are you like me and only refer to the instructions when you're stumped?

iflynething

yeah..........really us men only look at the pictures are look at the actualy instructions if we don't understand what is in the pictues.......i have always done that and usually came out fine

Yub, yub, cmdr!

Greetings, TowardSickness/Barfing!

Is there another type of pinned hinge except for those Robart Hinge Points?

RichLockyer

Klett/Goldberg used to have a solid nylon hinge that was a pin mount, similar to Robart, but at the joint it spread out flat and the hing joint itself was nylon... no moving (friction) parts. Dunno about the durability. It certainly wasn't suitable for anything larger than a 40-60 sport model.

I'm not sure if I would really refer to the Robart Hinge Points as "pinned". I've always considered a "pinned" hinge to be the classig DuBro style with two pieces of nylon joined by a steel pin, just like a door.
For extra security, after gluing in, the control surface can be secured one of two ways... Either drill and dowel the hing halves, or simply run a straightpin through the hinge and secure the pin head with Zap.
My buddy has done this on many birds (ranging from Quickee to Goldberg Ultimate and Extra) without putting epoxy in the hinge slot. It makes the surface removeable, and he has yet to have a pin come out. I think he uses two pins per hinge half if he is not using epoxy. I like the idea as a backup because you can never be sure how good the epoxy bond actually is.

iflynething

OK, about these Robart "Pin" Hinges. I have seen in the "How-To" video that they are very long. My question is, does the whole length of the hinge have to be in the wood. I hope that you know what I mean. So, in other words, could I put these "pin" hinges in my Somethin' Extra? Or would the stabs and elevators, ailerons, rudder, not have enough wood at the edges for the hinges to put them into............Do the hinges come in different lengths if ya hopefully know what I mean??????? THANKS.......

RichLockyer

They do come in different sizes, but the thickness of the wood should not be the determining factor. ALL hinges should be completely encased in wood. F'rinstance... if you have a built-up structure using a 3/8" hard balsa trailing edge and your hinge is 1/2", then prior to covering you should put a second 3/8" block inside of the wing at the hinge location. You can then make a 1/2" slot (or hole for hinge points) for the hinge and the full contact area of the hinge is glued and surrounded by wood, plus the load is spread out over a wider portion of the t/e. You also don't have to worry that all of the glue has been shoved into the wing, leaving nothing on the hinge... so don't double the 3/8" t/e and then cut a slot/hole that's 3/4" deep.

The size of the hinge is best determined by the expected per-hinge flight load. More hinges = smaller hinge needed... within reason. You could certainly get away with using 50 of the 1/2-A size hinges on an elevator half for a 33% Edge, but you've reached the point of diminishing returns. Same for CA hinges. I've built .25 size planes, hinging the elevator halves with two pieces of cut CA hinge (cut in half) and had no problems. I used Robart Hinge Points on the elevator/rudder of my Extra and DuBro pinned hinges on the ailerons. Would CA hinges have worked? Sure... but not half-size and certainly more than two per surface