Following recomendations from you all I went and bought a TT pro 46. Reading through the instructions it says "we strongly discourage using fuel containing only synthetic lubricants during the break-in period." I live in Chile, South America and the one hobby store that I can buy fuel at only carries synthetic fuel (Morgan Fuel Cool Power 10%). Is it OK to break-in my engine with this fuel? Do I need to take in special steos during the break-in. Unfortunately this is the only fuel I can get.

If that's all you can get, then that's all you can get. You could add a few ounces of Castor oil to your first 1/2 gal. Otherwise, make sure you keep it on the rich side for the first few tanks.

Its fine, shouldnt be a problem.

Go with Minn's suggestion. A little castor say 4 to 6 oz will help make sure the engine will not be damaged during break in. Castor is a good lubricant when engines get hot. And during break in the piston and liner can get a little too hot . Just be careful with the synthetic after break in. Make sure you don't run too lean.

Mark Shuman

The fuel you have will work fine. If you can get a little castor, well and good. If you can't don't worry about it.

Break the engine in a little rich of peak rpm. Run it for 5 minutes and shut it down for 30 minutes. Do this several time or about 12 to 14 ounces of fuel. Don't run the engine blubbering rich, this will ruin the taper fit of the piston to the cylinder. Don't go for peak rpm for the first couple of tanks. This will not let the machine work in the engine match up properly.

The engine is usually considered broken in when it will hold a steady idle and will advance throttle smoothly without stopping.

Okm heres what i would do,
get some cool power 100% synthetic oil, go to the drug store and get some medicinal castor, antd then a shell, exon, etc dealer and get some methanol.


mix 5 % castor, 15% synthetic, 80% methanol.

or for oil use 20% shell racing M motorbike oil, or 20% castrol m oil.
if you can skip the hobby shops, try the motorbike or go kart shops for oil

Hello out there,

I am new to model airplanes, specifically with 5 half flights (half because take off and landing was accomplished by an experienced person) and 2 complete flights (landing was a bit clumsy yet with no casulties
I have the following gear: Phoenix Domino trainer, TT Pro 46 and Futaba 4EX transmitter.
Everything works perfectly except from the fact that TT Pro hesitates a little when going from idle to full throttle. Specifically, when going from full throttle to idle and immediately to full throttle again, there is no problem. If the engine idles for about 10-15 seconds then the transition is not smooth (sometimes more, sometimes less).
The engine never died during flight or on the ground. The idle is very good and steady and the full throttle perfect. As a beginner, I use the engine half throttle during flight.
Regarding the fuel system, I have not seen any bubbling and the fuel tank is ok. I have refurbished the tank by replacing the plastic pipes (one of them was broken) with copper and tested the tank for leaks by immersing it in the water.
A friend of mine told me that the carburators of these engines have only idle and full throttle trimming (low and high needle) and that middle range throttle behaviour of the engine depends on these settings. He also suggested that 10% nitro fuel will compensate on this after finishing the fist gallon of 5% nitro (so as engine to break in smoothly first). The fuel is Cool Power.
Is this transition problem caused by the fact that the engine is not completely broken in (1/3 galon ran through it) or the 5% nitro ? Or both ?
Also, do you think that it is good to break in the engine by flying it at half throttle on the air during training season (the high needle is set to slight rich) ? In fact, the engine was broken in also by running the first tank on the ground.
What is your opinion ?

Your idle setting is just slightly too rich.
Turn your idle mix clockwise just a little bit. less than 1/8 turn and try the transition. Idle can only be adjusted when the engine is not running.

low speed adjustment-idle is a tad rich,squeeze fuel line,engine should be adjusted to speed up slightly at low,if speeds up a lot engine is to rich,if engines dies fast ,engine is to lean,after setting recheck high speed adj.using same method,engine should speed up 300 /400 rpm

I would second the recommendation that you stop by your local pharmacy and purchase a small bottle of castor oil. 4 oz. to 8 oz. added to a gallon of fuel will provide all the protection you'll want for breaking in your new engine. It shouldn't set you back more than a couple of bucks, either.

I wouldn't just recommend this for break-in, either. I'd recommend that you add 4 to 8 ounces of castor oil to every gallon of 100% synthetic lubrication fuel you buy.

I still cannot understand this castor vs. synt lube issue. I have been running all my engines from TT46 to Saitos to YS on Cool Power only. They are all doing well, still getting the RPMs out of them. Why do you need castor in case the engine gets hot? Why not learn to tune the engine so it does not overheat? I believe this is not a difficult thing to learn, ain't rocket science for sure. I am not against castor, as a lube it burns at a much higher temp than synth lube but if we keep the engine at the appropriate temp then there is no issue right? After each flight I will check the temp of my engine.

The only reason I do not use castor is because I am too lazy ... I dislike the grime on the plane.

Yup, tuned properly synthetic oil will perform satisfactorily in any modern engine. Trouble is, stuff doesn't always go as planned. Filters and needle valves clog occasionally, sometimes we tweak'em just a touch leaner than we meant to, etc. I provide my engines with a little protection in case that happens, and use a castor blend. If all I could get was full synthetic, I'd add castor. I do add castor to my fuel for breaking in engines, especially 1/2a engines and ringed ones.

Paper towels are cheaper than engines, and windex cuts the gunk great for me!

J

It is well known that castor blended fuels provide better protection to higher temps.
I can see if castor blended fuels are hard to come by where you are then full synthetic and carefull watch on your engine would suffice.
For me caster blended fuels are readily available and cost are equal to full synthetic so its a no brainer. I will use caster blended fuels.
Wiping the plane down after flying is a non issue.