Propeller questions!
#1
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From: waverly ,
NY
do i have to use a nylon propeller that comes with a kit of can i switch to a wooden propeller witha different pitch to it..
the propeller is a master airscrew 11x5 g/f nylon .. I'd like to use a 11x6 top flight will this be ok???
Also what propeller company is better?? Master Airscrew, top flight, or Zinger??
thanks,
brad
the propeller is a master airscrew 11x5 g/f nylon .. I'd like to use a 11x6 top flight will this be ok???
Also what propeller company is better?? Master Airscrew, top flight, or Zinger??
thanks,
brad
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From: Hernando,
MS
APC is the best prop I have found. WHy exactly are you wanting to use a wooden prop? As many times as I have set down hard I would broken many wooden ones. The APC's are glass filled and work extremely well and are balanced well fro the factory.
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
eclipsegsxr - You can use a variety of propellers. What plane and what engine? If you really don't understand this yet, then you probably should steer clear of wood props. They do break easily and you won't be able to tell the difference between a wood prop and an APC in flight until you're a lot more advanced. As csdawggie said, the glass/nylon props are a lot more durable.
- Paul
- Paul
#4
Sounds like you the prop is for a 46 size engine and the plane is a trainer? If thats the case the nylon prop makes a better choice. If you bump the runway with the engine running, the nylon prop will probably be ok. If a wooden prop touches anything with the engine running it will mmediatly break! Also a 11-5 will give you more punch if you need it to get out of trouble than a 11-6 so I wouldn't bother changing that either. The most duarable props for training are the black Master Airscrew props. Less durable, more expensive, but more efficient are the APC brand grey props. Wooden props are about as efficient and the same price as the APC but are very brittle. Hope this helps[8D
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From: gone,
There's all sorts of things that go on changing type, brand, and pitch at the same time.
The APC grey props are very clean aerodynamicly... so they put a lower load on an engine than the same size wood prop. (same diameter and pitch)
Increasing pitch without decreasing diameter mans you are increasing the load again.
Are you sure you want to try this change? [:-]
You didn't say which engine or which specfic aircraft. and prop choice needs to take these into consideration. What is the result you are looking for? If you are after a better climb rate... you are doing EXACTLY the WRONG thing.
The APC grey props are very clean aerodynamicly... so they put a lower load on an engine than the same size wood prop. (same diameter and pitch)
Increasing pitch without decreasing diameter mans you are increasing the load again.
Are you sure you want to try this change? [:-]
You didn't say which engine or which specfic aircraft. and prop choice needs to take these into consideration. What is the result you are looking for? If you are after a better climb rate... you are doing EXACTLY the WRONG thing.
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eclipsegsxr, Hi, all said is very true, and I will like to add a little advice to you, running props are dangerous, and I`m sure you know that, but the amount of hurt they can cause is sometimes ignored. JUST BE CAREFULL, and please dull the edges of plastic or fiber props, you will not regret it. If you wan`t more info on this matter just ask here.
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From: gone,
Dulling the edges is a false security.
APC props are designed to have sharp edges. Dull them and you make them less efficient. (and noisier)
Learn safe handling. Even a dulled prop can cut you very badly. A common glow engine operates at 4 times the RPM of a circular saw. You would certainly be sure to keep your hand out of a sawblades path... think of that prop the same way. A .40 engine can easilly remove a finger... a .90 can remove a hand. (a .25 can remove a finger...)
If you are hand flipping the prop forward to start the engine... you are asking to get cut. A dull wood blade on a .35 cut me to the bone that way when the engine kicked back. (near 30 years ago, when a .35 had the power of a modern .20)
There are safe ways to deal with these things. The only way to teach the safe way is in-person.
APC props are designed to have sharp edges. Dull them and you make them less efficient. (and noisier)
Learn safe handling. Even a dulled prop can cut you very badly. A common glow engine operates at 4 times the RPM of a circular saw. You would certainly be sure to keep your hand out of a sawblades path... think of that prop the same way. A .40 engine can easilly remove a finger... a .90 can remove a hand. (a .25 can remove a finger...)
If you are hand flipping the prop forward to start the engine... you are asking to get cut. A dull wood blade on a .35 cut me to the bone that way when the engine kicked back. (near 30 years ago, when a .35 had the power of a modern .20)
There are safe ways to deal with these things. The only way to teach the safe way is in-person.
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From: Grand Forks, ND
I can NOT concur stronger about the safety around a running prop. It has been just over two weeks and the stitches came out yesterday. The first rotation took a little scrape out of my index finger the next rotation took the tip of my thumb. It was hanging by a piece of skin. I still have a hard time feeling the tip, but the Doc says it will recover. I had everything set, clamped the gear and was doing an engine run. The clamp broke just as I was going around the plane to adjust the high idle. I was a little slower on the left hand than the right. Eight stitches later and the skill saw looks underpowered. I would recommend that you ensure the plane won't move with wing blockers/ rope and weights, and of course keep spectators out of the area. Good luck!!
Lefty[sm=thumbup.gif]
Lefty[sm=thumbup.gif]




