I bought a 4 star as my first glow kit and my second glow plane. I saw a few that were bashed and I thought they really improved it's looks. I already have as OS .46fx for it.

I want to make a cowl and started by coping the front of the plane and building a replica of the front of the plane. I can screw around with this and not mess up the original. I can still build it stock if I can't iron out some of the bugs. I bought a Dave Brown mount so I can turn the engine on it's side. I ended up turning it more than 90 degrees so that the muffler is straight down so I might be able to hide it. This is where I have a few questions.

The center of the carb would be about 2 inches lower, should I move the tank lower?

The muffler isn't straight with the fuse along the bottom, if you can imagine if it was mounted down and look at it you would see what I mean. I was wondering if might affect it in flight by acting as a rudder. If it does I might look into a pitts style muffler and see if it would fit.

The Dave Brown mount comes with some #4 wood screws to mount the engine, is this the way to go? I bought some #6 hex head wood screws to use if that is the way to go. I can't see how I would use machine screws.

If anyone has any tips also please chime in

Thanks

Chris

As far as the tank goes if ya can get it down a bit it may help. I've read here a couple times about lining up the tank with the carb but I honestly can't remember what the exact recommendation is. I gotta think that mounting the tank in the stock location would be ok but if you can drop it an inch or so, I would.
As for your mounting screws, I do NOT recommend wood screws. Use "T" locks epoxied to the back side of firewall and machine screws. (Allen head type) and beef the firewall area up good.
Wood screws simply will not hold up to the test of time.

The muffler should not cause any problems, we mount engines in all kind of configurations and the mufflers hanging out in the slipstream don't do anything. (Keep in mind, it's at the front of the plane so would have less impact anyway.)

The mount should definitely be attached to the firewall with machine screws and blind nuts (also called T nuts I believe). Many people say using "wood" or "sheet metal" screws to attach the engine to the mount work fine, but for me, I either use bolts with nuts, or tap the mount for bolts.

If you can lower the tank you'd be better off, but I don't think it will be a huge issue. You generally want the centerline of the tank even with the carb needle, or as close to that as possible to optimize fuel draw, but prevent siphoning. (If the tank is too high, once fuel starts flowing it will keep flowing, even without the engine running.)

Have fun bashing the 4*. They're a great flying plane, but a bit lacking in the looks department. (Just my opinion! )
Dennis-

Bashing for looks is lots of fun

When you cut off the cheek cowls... pin the firewall in by drilling 1/16 dia holes appx 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep frm the side into the firewall then epoxy round toothpicks in the holes. (break off the point before inserting the toothpick)

Tacking on shaped wingtips and reshaping the tailplanes maks the thing look very nice. When shaping the tailplanes... add on a little to make up for what you are cutting off.

triming the plastic canopy so it sits a little lower makes the plane look sleeker. Cutting a 28 oz or 2 liter soda bottle you can make a longer canopy for a bit more fuselage side area... which gives better knife-edge performance. (lemon-lime sodas come in green bottles... nice looking tinted canopies )

Also... the choice of colors and the pattern of application can make or break the appearance of the model. Scan the 3-views from the instruction book into the computer and play with it in a graphics program. (edit the 3-vies to match your changes to the model)

I just build a 4 star as my first kit. I seriously considered trying to make a cowl, but I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew on my first kit.

But this link is to website by one of the senior RCU memebers (I forgot his name), I used his procedure for the deck and canopy. He also gives a very good detailed procedure for making a cowl also. If you havn't already seen the site I think it would help you out a lot.

[link=http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/sig4star/]Four star customization[/link]


Good luck,

Wings

I have bashed a couple of 4*60s and they fly great. There are 2 things you don't want to do.

First, don't increase the wing span. The best thing is to remove 1 rib from each side. The plane will roll better and you won't notice any change in landing. If you want to round off the wing tips, as I did, cut off 2 ribs, then add big, rounded tips back on.

Second, don't reduce the size of the tail, either vertical or horizontal. Both are fairly small. You can easily add an extra inch of rudder chord and a half inch of elevator chord. I added to the length on mine, too.

That rocks man. If you didn't say they were 4*'s, you'd never know.

How long did it take on average to build one of those?

Thanks guys for all the help and information. I had the day off and messed around with making the cowl for a few hours and got fustrated. I don't know if is the way for me to go[:@] I put it on the side for now and started on the wing and sheeting the turtle deck.

Thanks again!!

Chris

I bought a 4*40 that was all ready built off a fellow but I wanted to add a cowl to improve the looks. I found the link to the renderwux website and used some of Tom's ideas. However I didn't want to be bothered with the cowl mods. What I end up using was a Sig Kougar cowl. I was running a Saito 56 at the time ( I have a .72 now) and I mounted it inverted and cut out the bottom for the cylinder head to stick through. This looked really sharp and the best part was that I had a removable cowl for easy access!

I like this method so much that I used it to make the cowls for my duelist! Give it a try you'll like the results!

Mike

I was looking for something like this, but I didn't find anything. How well did the Kougar Cowl fit and what modifications did you have to make to adapt this cowl to the 4 Star 40. I kown I'll have to cut it up abit to fit the engine. BTW, the cowl is only $5.99 on the Sig website.

Thanks !!

Chris

The cowl fit great length-wise and width wise. I lined the bottom of the cowl up with the bottom of the plane and the top ended up being about a 1/8 inch higher then the 4* top. I built up the upper portion with balsa from the front to the cockpit and it turned out great! I had to do a bit of rounding of the 4* fuse to get the angle right but with a little bit of trial and error it turned out great!

Cheers, Mike

PS Order at least 2 cowls, if your anything like me you'll make a mistake with the 1st one!

I have made cowls fron 28 oz soda bottles... that would e about right size for the 4*40... paint the inside with a fuelproof paint... its very flexible and damage resistant. (cheap and you can play with it without worrying about messing up...) See if you can find some plastic bottle that has a section the shape you want.

Thanks for the info Mike, I just ordered 2 cowls. If they don't fit I'm sending you the bill

Chris

Hey Ed Moorman!
You bashed your 4* to look a LOT like a Super Sportster.
Dennis-