kerklein2

I'm workin on finishing up my 4-star 40 and im installing the tailwheel wire. There are no included wheel collars and there are no instructions on to how the wheel should be installed. Anyone with experience with the 4-star know what im talking about? Thanks, Shaun.

TyBryner

I was perplexed as well when I got to that point... I ended up conning my neighbor out of a wheel collar since I didn't want to make an order for a single stupid collar. (no hobby shop close to where I live)

The wheel lines up about where it should be with just one collar to hold it on (no need for a collar on the "inside" side of the wheel.) Though the whole assembly seems a bit flimsy (haven't broken it yet, but it sure feels like it could happen with a hard bump), so I think I'm going to put a whole different tailwheel assembly on when I get around to it.

FHHuber

The tail wheel wire being imbedded in the rudder is not one of the brightest ideas Sig came up with. The relatively soeft (light and good for the rudder...) is not good for retaining the wire. It will eventually wiggle loose or break out.

Putting in a Du-Bro tailwheel bracket is a good idea, but the lite play isn't great for retaining the screws... so you'll need to double the bottom of the fuselage wherre the bracket mounts.

Fortunately the 4* tends to be a bit noseheavy, so it should be no big deal having to add the weight to the tail with the heavier tailwheel mounting system.

**************

As far as retaining the tailwheel. You can use a wheel collar, or if you have the correct tools, just put a 90 deg bend in the end of the wire. I used to also solder a washer onto the wire to retain a small wheel, but we only had metal or wooden hubs on the wheels back then. (don't solder a washer on if you have a plastic hub....)

If you want to be REALLY fancy and you are REALLY good... heat the end of the wire cherry red and let cool, then drill the wire and use a washer and a piece of copper wire to retain the wheel. (that takes one heck of a tiny drill and you have to be VERY good to do it.) Smallest I have done that for is a 1/32 hole in 3/32 music wire. I have seen it done to retain a wheel on 1/16 wire with a 1/64 hole. (scale model... he made his own cotter pin for true scale wheel retention.)

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Use two wheel collars. Makes the installation easier.

riceh03

I had the problem of the tail wheel wire pulling out of the rudder assembly also. To fix it I fiberglassed a small loop around the wire and lower edge of the rudder. It has held up so far. Sig usually does a better design job than this. The other weak point is the fuse area that needs some reinforcement around hte wing saddle area.

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

A few sig kits are like this. The SE is teh same.

Best ot pick up the GP tail wheel bracket. glues to the fuse, in a slot in teh vertical porion of eh fuse / rudder (where the lower hinge would be..)

kerklein2

What about that sullivan tailwhell, it looks nice

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Sullivan tailwheels work great!. By the way I soldered washers instead of using wheel collars. Lost too many tailwheels with loose setscrews!
John

kerklein2

I meant the tailwheel bracket....sorry

4*60

My Feedback: (41)

Sullivan tailwheel setups work great. On the 4*60 I used the original setup, similar to the 4*40 and used washers soldered. It has been just fine over multiple seasons and some rough takeoffs and landings on grass. No problem at all. If I were doing it on the 4*40 I would use the original setup and solder washers. Just my opinion of course. I could be wrong.
Dennis Miller