Is an on / off switch worth the weight in electric planes?

I wouldnt use one

They make micro switches that I've used on a couple of Speed 400's. Generally though, you need to get to the pack connector before every flight for charging (or replacing) anyway. A quick release hatch of some type is easiest.
Dennis-

No, you dont want anything on an electric plane you dont really need, like DB said,unless you have a charge receptacle with the switch you have to get to the pak anywayand if you do have that its just a ffew more grams to tote around...when I flew parkflyers at the school, I just kept 3 or 4 battery paks to fly with..dont have a fast charger....Rog

I like to have an on/off switch. All mine does is cut the power from the ESC to the receiver. I feel safer killing the power to the receiver (and throttle) when bringing the plane to and from the flight line. I will add that it is a bit of a hassle getting to the battery connectors on my plane.

The MAJORITY of on/off switches DO NOT KILL THE POWER TO THE ESC. The ESC will drain the battery even with the switch in the off position.

If you want to kill the power to the ESC via a switch, you will need a switch capable of handling AT LEAST your MAX AMP DRAW PLUS 10% and you will need to wire it into the positive lead (usually red) between the battery and the ESC.

How do you calculate the amp draw?

For example, what would a 350 motor on a 7.4 volt 1500mAh LiPo pack draw?

Thanks for the help. I have a quick release battery compartment on my e-starter i just built, so it is not a big deal. I just wanted to know for future reference.

UPDATE>>>>>>>>

Nevermind... I found a chart showing the amp draw for my motor/gearbox here:
http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/motor...ductId=T433964

Rog, you want one? I got one of those DC chargers from a Hobbico Sky skooter I don't use- it's the cheepie kind with the timer, but if you monitor your packs, it works fine. PM me with your address, I'll ship it to you post paid if you want it!

Jetts

What is the MAXIMUM amp draw of your ESC and/or your motor(s) ? Take that number and add 10% (or more to allow for surges). Many switches have ratings for volts and amps.

Another option is to wire in a PLUG IN TYPE AUTOMOTIVE FUSE HOLDER and use a plug in fuse (lighter and cheaper). As long as your total amps are under 30 amps you should have no problem finding a plug in fuse.

The setup I have in a Freedom 3D is a CC 80 amp ESC with a Mega 22/20/2 motor. The motor draws a max of 46 amps the way I have it propped. To use a switch (or fuse) to kill the power to the ESC, I would need something for 50+ amps.

I have not been able to find auto plugin type fuses rated that high and the switches I have found that go that high are large and heavy (over 1 1/2 oz). That is why I use a switch to kill the power to the receiver and throttle. I had a glitch in the past that ran the motor at about 1/2 throttle for 5 or 6 seconds - scared the h*ll out of me. A 16" prop suddenly starting and running as you reach down to pick up the plane tends to do that

Thanks for the offer Jetts, but I dont fly parkflyers at this time, I do glow now..Rog

Well alrighty then! Maybe I'll have another trivia giveaway like I did with the pico stick/Wright Bros. question last year.

I do not use on /off switches on small (speed 600) motor systems. Switches are a source for trouble. (Failure) I just un plug the battery .