Does anyone have any illustrations on how to do a taildragger mod on an LT-40?

I've worked on that nosewheel long enough...done the "flat spot" on the nosewire...all that junk. Been dealing with the nosegear for a year. My LT-40 has over 100 flights on it, so Im real comfortable flying it...but sick of screaming down the field...zig-zagging all over.....praying to get airspeed so I can get it off the ground. Makes me wish I would have got the LT-25 (taildragger). I built the plane from kit.

Any detailed pictures/comments on this conversion would be ideal...

Thanks in advance.

-Tom

the Search button is your friend

here is a link to my LT-40 conversion

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_19...tm.htm#1917694

I cant tell how you have multiple pushrods going...one for the rudder...another for the tailwheel. You got 2 pushrods connected to one servo?

yes, thats the rudder control. The actual rudder is connected to one side of the servo, and the other side is the tail wheel. Just make sure that the push rods go to opposite sides on the tail wheel and rudder, so they will go in same direction.

Some will say that pushrod isnt needed, but I installed one because... well... I wanted too

Regarding this comment:
"Some will say that pushrod isnt needed, but I installed one because... well... I wanted too"


Did you mean that you could have opted to wire it to the tail? I thought of doing that....instead of an extra rod.

i'll add my two cents as I have done things the hard way.

First time I installed my tailwheel i did not use a pushrod for steering and i let the wheel pivot freely. I found out that it's not the best idea because i had limited control when taxing.

Second time I installed it I used a pushrod. Pushrod worked great but the hard wood support I added to the bottom for support was to small and it ripped out when taxing. So now I have to fix the damage i've done.

ahh!

So what is the best way to do this? Add a new pushrod? Or wire it to the rudder?

I am looking for a quick way to get this done........a better alternative to the stock trike setup.... I have another plane in construction that is a taildragger....but may not be done this summer.

I hope RichD doesn't mind me using his website, but he has some great pics of his setup. Just run a pushrod from the rudder servo all the way to the back *BUT* on the *OPPOSITE* side of where the rudder pushrod connects to the rudder. Your LHS should have a variety of tailwheel kits.

Here's RichD's site with the good pics:

[link=http://richdavis.net/rc]http://richdavis.net/rc[/link]

As soon as my wife comes home with my plane, I will take better pics of the rudder/tail wheel assembly from the back of the aircraft to show the opposite mounting of the pushrods.

In my opinion, a free turning tailwheel wont work very well on grass. Maybe on a hard surface such as asphault.

as promised....

http://richdavis.net/rc/images/rudder1.jpg

http://richdavis.net/rc/images/rudder2.jpg

Here are two pics of my install:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_19...tm.htm#1963117

I guess I can throw mine in:

LT-40, converted using [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCLK9]Great PLanes scale tailwheel assembly[/link], and Sullivan gold-n-rod.

I wish I had one of those long drill bits (3/16" is perfect for the Sullivans) when I did it.

I also used the GP Dural .60-size main gear, and they seem perfect for the model's size.

Clipping the tailwheel to the rudder is lighter & easier to install, as opposed to the pushrod method.
The pushrod is more adjustable & easier to repair.

Take your pick -- both work very well.

I usually clip (or bond) to the rudder, but on "twitchy" models I use a pushrod to "gear down" the tailwheel steering ratio without limiting rudder motion.

How would I clip onto the tail? Have you seen the tail configuration of the LT-40? I am interested in this approach.

You extend the tailwheel wire up through the hinge line of the elevator & then bend it over to follow the rudder profile.

You can cut a groove in the bottom edge of the rudder & epoxy (or Goop) the wire into it, or you can make a little U-shaped clip out of aluminum (or brass, plastic, etc) & screw it onto the bottom of the rudder -- thus holding the tailwheel wire against the bottom edge of the rudder with the clip.

errr...

seems like more work then just a push rod from the rudder servo. All i did was drill two holes insert wire, measure legnth, cut, and attach.

Reason I was interested in the "non pushrod approach" was because my plane tends to be very tailheavy. I have a SuperTigre S40 (older) engine. Had to really weight the nose down to get it to balance.

Thought the non-pushrod approach might be lighter, on the tail. I think the pushrod approach is simpler and sounds more durable.

It (the non-pushrod) is actually not as bad as it sounds when you do it. It is dead easy if you have a split elevator.

yea..the LT-40 does not have a split elevator.

I would not be too worried about a bit of lead in an LT-40.

My LT-40 balanced with a bit of lead in behind the firewall, a 1000 mAh battery under the tank, and the receiver just behind the tank. The engine is an old OS Surpass 48. Not a big heavy engine.

I balanced it just ahead of the most rearward CG recommended in Sig's manual. It is still plenty stable. Even at the CG, it still won't spin properly (i.e. its pretty stable), and I will be nudging it back further.

Total wet weight is between 6.5 and 7 lb. But then, I covered it with koverall and plenty of dope...which is on the heavy side. Still it floats. That's a wing loading of only 18 oz/sqft.

The tail wheel, and gear, will have a much larger affect than the push rod arrangement because they are both heavy and hang off the end of the tail. If you are concerned about balance get the lightest tail hear possible, and a light tail wheel. Mine is a big heavy CBA/Tatone leaf spring tailgear, with Dubro tail wheel. Neither are lightweights. doggscube's setup look's pretty light.... at least lighter than mine.

Split elevator won't really help with an LT-40. The rudder hinge line is about 1-2 inches ahead of the elevator hinge line. So, split or not, you'd have to pass a wire through the horizontal stabilizer.

I didn't have to do anything to balance my plane post-conversion. This was random chance; I positioned the main gear between the former and servo tray. I'm going to change the tailwheel to a larger diameter, but I doubt that will change it enough to worry about it.

-Jeff

Jeff:

You probably have a heavier engine than me. I have a Supertigre S40 on mine. It was bought back in the mid 80s.

I bought this arf hot of the press(right when they came out).
I have never had any problems with the nose gear and believe
me this plane has several hours on it from training. I guess
nobody uses loctite no more. Its still got the original nose gear
on it and i havent had to touch it whats so ever. Its been banged
around pretty good by students.