Well, I've been praising the Xtra Easy 2 for a few weeks now, but not the engine.... i love the Evolution, but for some reason, i just cant get the thing to run right no matter what i do ... it ran beautiful the first few flights and after that i've had nothing but problems......... It will idle fine, however, the trouble starts when i want to go from idle to full throttle quickly... it hesitates, and wants to die unless i back off .. i've fiddled with the high speed adjustment but it doesnt seem to help in any way .... also, today while i was in the air, my old man wanted me to do a hi speed fly by, roughly 100' above the deck ... well, i go her going and as soon as i threw up the throttle, it died..... it sounds like a high speed adjustment but it just doesnt help, it has been humid and hot for the last few days, but i should be able to adjust it to these conditions, is there anything else i'm missing here?????

If the trouble happens when you transition from idle to hi speed it
may be your low idle adjustment.. I'm not sure how it's setup on the
Evo engine, But the screw would be in the middle of the throttle linkage
or it may be a air bleed type which would be somewhere in the front/side
of carb.. The starting point is somewhere around two to two and ahalf
turns out.. If you do try to adjust it.. First "count" the number of turns
it take to close it(lightly) That way you will know where your setting was
to start with.. And or make small moves(1/8" or so) at a time to lean or
richen it, and try it out to see if it helps..
But if nothing else has changed since it did run good, you may be having
a air leak somewhere.. From the needle valve, tubing and or tank...

Good luck in finding your problem!....
You know this is one of the many good reasons to belong to a club...
Most clubs give you unlimited help and knowledge... Not to mention deals
you may find:-)

i hear ya raideron ..... i'm joining one as soon as i move in 3 weeks, and i cant wait ! ... thanks for the suggestions, i mean, i know its go to be something that can be adjusted, i just wasnt not sure what .. thanks for a relative path though .... i'll see what i can come up with ... hopefully something .....

The problem is with the low speed adjustment. You should be able to adjust it by moving the "limiter". If need be (which I doubt you will need to do) the limiter can be by passed.

Make your adjustments 1/16 - 1/8 turn at a time. Start by opening the idle screw 1/8 turn.

DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE SHUT OFF, unless you want to lose some fingers and/or other parts of your anatomy

When you restart the engine, peak the engine with the high speed needle, then back off 1/8 - 1/4 turn (you want about a 300 rpm drop). Then try the transition again. If it is the same or worse, go back to the original setting and go 1/8 turn the other way. Once you have an improvement, back off 1/16 turn and try it, if it worsens, move it 1/8 turn the other way. The initial 1/8 turn on the idle screw should take care of most of the problem, then it is just fine tuning it.

Since you were running OK a couple of days ago, I suspect one of two things:

1. You accidently moved the low speed limiter.

2. The humidity is playing havoc with the settings.

Hope this solves the problem.

If it doesn't, let us know. There are a couple of other things that can be done to solve the problem. All the Evolution engines I have seen have run great, needing no adjustment, or at worst, minor adjustment.

Raideron has some good advice, but this is an Evolution engine and some things are different, so don't turn the low speed set screw yet. Besides, you can't just turn it anyway. I have the Xtra Easy 2 and my Evo is a powerful little screamer that I trust completely. I can shove full throttle any time and it jumps.

It is most likely the low speed needle valve. First, reset your high speed one. Peak it to full power at the loudest you can get it at full throttle (most likely turning it clockwise) and back off a couple of clicks counterclockwise, or richer. You should be able to hear it loose just a little power. That is fine. You need it slightly rich.

The best thing to do is go to idle for a few seconds and then pinch the fuel line to the carb. Start counting. If the engine runs past 5 seconds, you are too rich on the low speed setting. If it dies before 5 seconds, probably too lean. Okay, you will notice a little black bar coming up from the low speed needle valve area. That is movable. Evo gave you a range with that bar so you could set the low speed easily without the set screw. CCW is rich and CW is lean. Try setting that based upon your pinch test results. If it still dies, there is a little set screw on top of the round housing for the low speed screw. It is a 1.5 metric. You loosen that so that the set screw can be adjusted to give your adjusting bar a new range. Very important to remember this concept. If you lean it out some with the set screw, you have a new range open to you with that adjusting bar.

You sound too lean, but do the test and see where you are at. Also, you can let the plane idle for 20-25 seconds and then go to full throttle to see if it hesitates.

If all of the above fails, then the most likely culprit is trash in the high speed needle valve from noseovers, etc. The easiest thing to do is use your fuel lines and pump fuel backwards thru the high speed needle valve. Don't run it into the tank! Put on a spare bit of fuel line and drain the fuel into a cup with a coffee filter. Look for little bits of trash. Flush it the right way, and then backwards again to flush the junk out. I had to do that and the engine has run great since. It takes about 10 minutes.

The Xtra Easy 2 is a surprisingly well done trainer. However, it needs a couple of things to survive a nice, long life. First, mix 50/50 epoxy and alcohol and fuel proof your firewall and engine area. Mine had none. It is a good idea to buy a stick of triangular stock and reinforce the firewall corners with it. The firewall isn't exactly sturdy. I've had to repair mine and have looked the whole area over, front and back. You need to do this. If you have a friend or someone at the hobby shop to ask advice, ask them about epoxying pine blocks in the fuselage bottom for nylon bolts for the main gear. One rough landing and you won't regret the few hours to do this mod. The fuselage bottom and gear attaching screws are very flimsy and will rip out the bottom on a hard landing. This mod means drilling a 1/4" hole from below and thru those blocks. You then screw 1/4x20 nylon bolts to hold on the gear. It is a better attachment, but will break before anything on the plane does in the event of a bad landing.....hopefully.

One last thought- you have absolutely no foam padding for your fuel tank. If your problem is foaming fuel, maybe 2 drops of ArmorAll in a gallon of fuel will help the foaming issue.

Let us know how this works out for you.

it is too lean. richen it out by turning it about 1/8 turn counter clockwise. it should help your problem. do it with the engine off. that is a starting point. richen out as much as necessary until the transition is seamless but when you get close start turning it in 1/16 turns.

Mine didn't want to run smooth when it was new but now it runs and don't skip a beat.

I reviewed the Evo last summer and I had a similar problem. If you open the low end as far as the limiler will go, and it's still not right, here's what you need to do:

1) remove the limiter collar

2) close the throttle barrel so that it is only open 1millimeter

3) Close the low end adjustment screw completely

4) Re-open the low end adjustment screw One and One Fifth (1 1/5) turns.

5) replace the limiter collar in the center of it's adjustment range.

what does that do?

Just to put in my $.02, I have 2 of these engines. After dead sticks on every flight, I ordered one from the "attic" from the Hangar 9 website. (Saved about $20 on it.) This one only required minor adjustment to get to run everytime properly, and with good transition. Please note, before you adjust the low speed limiter, only move it a very little at at time. The thickness of the pin that they give you to adjust it with at the most at any one time. Then run the crap out of it with a careful flight until you see what "tendency" it is picking up. This way, you get to see if you are making progress at it. Mine is very touchy, about two thicknesses of the pin is my adjustment range. If you run the lean / rich test, at least on mine, it was inconclusive. My second engine seems to run fine, whereas the first one I had would idle, or run at full throttle well, just not through midrange. I dissassembled the old one, (old meaning I bought it in Nov. 2003, new in an Alpha RTF). The connecting rod is scraping the inside of the crankcase, and the cylinder has shown signs of scoring at the side for the exhaust port. I think that this was due to a small piece of the gasket missing from the pipe to the manifold. ( I kept wondering how all that oil kept getting all over from the side of the engine to the back). I think that I will probably buy a carb. for it, and a new inside bearing. At least that is what I think will fix it. I had already replaced all of my fuel lines in an out of the tank, and switched props a couple of times (for balance ).

That is where it is supposed to be set from the factory (but sometimes one slips by incorrectly)

When I called tech support, they told me to start at 2 1/2 turns out to begin tuning. This was close enough to get me started to bringing it back to running. As I remember, they were both rich at that point.

One of the engine knowledgeable guys at the club said that he heard of problems with the setting in China and then how they performed here. Dunno, could be correct.

I guess my .46 NT has several hours and about 12 flights on it now. I set the idle around 2400 RPM today and it was idling in the 2200 RPM range when I shut it down for the day. It ran great. I still can't shove the throttle wide open yet like the .45 training engine, but it's getting close to that the more I run it.

Which OS plug is a good replacement? I have 8's and F's.

Here is the O.S. Chart, but I am using a Fox with an Idle bar.

As i stated earlier my evo ran good but it was too lean from the factory,i adjusted the high but left the idle alone for a few days,then i read my book and finally adjusted the low end,sure nuff it was too lean,i moved the idle almost as rich as it would go and it ran good but when i jumped past the stop on high end it really ran.They put these limiters on for newbys like myself but the people at the field didn't hesitate,after that i decided i could tune it but once it's right i hardly ever have to adjust anything.
Good luck with yours.

I guess I'll put an 8 in it. I've heard from a couple of people that plugs don't last long during the break in period. I'll change it before flying tomorrow.

Well, i simply adjusted the low speed setting, and now it runs fantastic ... was out today, did my first loop, rool, split-s, etc..... it was great .... i appreciate the advice..... thanks!!!

I think that once you get the Evolutions in tune, they stay that way. I've only set the high speed setting on my .45 once this summer.

The .46 NT will now go on another plane. I had one crash hard Sunday due to elevator flutter. The engine looks okay. The plane is a goner. It hit on the spinner on the side, and the spinner didn't crack. It is only scuffed. I was given a Somethin' Extra on Friday that dinged lightly. It cracked the tip rib, cracked the aileron, and had some splits in the balsa sheeting on the fuselage. It is on the bench now and should fly next weekend with the Evo. It will be interesting to see a SE with a .46 NT.

The evo 46 is a great little engine. I have mine on a Twist 40 and it will do pretty much anything my average skills can ask it to do. I also had to adjust the low needle limiter as I couldn't richen it up enough at the strock setting. Now it runs great and only deadsticks when I do aggressive maneuvers with less than 20% fuel left.

Duke

i have a evolution 100 it runs fine on the ground but soon as i get in the air it starts to surge i keep on riching it dose not help thanks.

it's cavitating for fuel. When they get into the air, they lean out a lot. Richen it some more. You might need a tach to help you tune it. Get it to peak, then richen it until it drops 3-400 rpm. Try that. You may also have an airleak somewhere. Will it die with your throttle kill button? Whenever I have an engine that does that in the air, I always richen it a couple of clicks and send it back up. That's usually all it takes. Remember, this time of year, one day you fly it might be 35 degrees, and the next time you fly might be 80 degrees and 90 percent humidity. All of that accounts for the tuning. I own the evo 46. I haven't flown the 100, but have a 100 four stroke that will act the same way if it's too lean. What prop are you turning with it?

I also have the H9 Extra Easy II trainer with the Evo .45 on it. This plane (with this angine) was the best Dead Stick trainer I ever had...that POS Evo .45 NEVER ran OK at least once. The solution, I sold the POS Evo and got an OS .46AX on the plane now and it flies super...

I have an evo .46 nt on my H9 Twist. The low end needle was completely closed from factory. And the limiter, I took the stupid thing off. Mine flies crappy the first flight. But isn't all that bad for the next flights. Mine will on occasion, once you drop throttle to almost idle and then gun it to full, it will just quit. Leaving you with a very nice deadstick landing. Also, when fooling around tuning this, when the engine was running full throttle, you could actually see the high needle knob turn!!!!!! I had to re-adjust the ratchet to keep this from moving while engine was running. My opinion, your better off buying a Thunder Tiger. Same price and you don't have to fool with it as much. It seems that either you get a good evo or a junk one. Nothing in between.

Dave...

Just a few days ago I learned something about the Evolution .45 series (.40, .46 whatever). I, myself, do not often fly with engines that have a muffler held together by a long bolt. A couple that I have have a long bolt with TWO nuts. Now it seems that a number of newer engines actually are threaded where the bolt enters the aft section of the muffler.

Well, a very nice youngster in the club, and one that took to the flying part of RC like a duck takes to water, was having all sorts of trouble with his Evolution. Numerous attempts were made ref. the entire fuel system to correct. I was playing with it and noticed the aft section of the muffler was slowly turning. There was leakage at the junction. I tightened the nut on the muffler bolt. HEY that aft section was still turning and some leakage was still there.

Then in a dismantle job, I found the threads in the aft section, and that the nut was simply a lock nut. Tightened the BOLT and then reset with the nut, and guess what? No leakage. Muffler pressure was now steady, and after resetting the carb. a tad, all was well in happy land and in the air. Hey I didn't know that the aft section was threaded which meant that the BOLT/screw had to be tightened and then locked down with that single nut.

Old nuts can still learn a trick or two. Something else to check on.

Hi Jworosylo I too have a XE-2 with a 49 Evo on it and I have NOT had one bit of problem out of it.It may there is good ones and bad ones but I think if you can get your lower wnd on youe carb. set right you will have a good too.I am Grandad1 loged in on my son's name 2slow2matter,I work on lawn Mowers and small motors and it sounds like low end addjustment too me but again I could be wrong.If it was mine that is where I would start is at the low end on the carb.Good luck and let us know what you find out when you get it too run the way you like for it too.