will you please inform me about the equipments that i needed for primary

1-building
2-to run engine
3- field equ.

only primar items please
THANK YOU ALL

highness-

In answer to your question:

1. Depends on whether you are building a kit or assembling an ARF. In either case its good to have a basic selection of glue (thin ca, medium ca, 5/30 min epoxy, maybe carpenters glue), an x-acto knife, Phillips head and straight screwdrivers, and a set of Allen (hex) keys.

2. To start the engine you need the proper glow plug (good to have a spare), a glow plug wrench, a glow plug igniter battery (the simplest are the ni-starter style), fuel, a pump to get the fuel in your plane, and something to flip the prop (either a chicken stick or electric starter and battery). NEVER flip the prop by hand to start.

3. The most basic field set would be the equipment in #2, plus whatever simple tools may be need to make adjustments at the field (usually the screwdrivers and Allen wrenches). You will also need rubber bands to attach your wing if its not held on with bolts, and something to clean off the exhaust residue (I use glass cleaner and paper towels).

-Jeremy

Well, as far as building goes, it depends if you want to build an ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) or Kit-type plane. Kits require more tools. ARF's are more expensive. If you're going for total economy, you can build more kits cheaper by making an investment in tools, but it also takes more time.
ARF suggestions = sheet or two of sandpaper, 200-ish grit's fine for what you'll be doing. Phillips and Flat-Tip screwdrivers (I recommend 3 sizes of each, you don't need the 'manhandlers', just small to about a #2 phillips is just fine). You need glue. Get a few bottles of the stuff. CA, and though people have their favorite brands, I only suggest the kind sold in model shops. Get one bottle thick and one bottle thin. 2oz each should build a couple of ARFs. Get some epoxy (whatever the ARF maker recommends). You're going to need some. You can mix this stuff on coffee-can lids with toothpicks. Little investment there. I've always loved having a razor-saw and a saw box, but that's more a kit builder's necessity. I've used it on ARF's, though to help finalize radio installation.
Don't be afraid to get a modeling (X-Acto) knife you like with spare blades. Sharp is a good thing.
It's not equipment per se, but a nice flat table-top you don't care about is a good thing. Something you can paint, stab into with drill-bits etc. Speaking of drill bits, you'll find it pretty hard to complete a plane that needs drilling without them. An inexpensive set of chinese drill bits is all you need (you're not boring through nickel ingots here).
If you're kit building, you'll also need a heat gun, heat iron (for afixing monocote), jigs, clamps, more sandpaper (more grades), potentially a wire-bending jig (for models without pre-bent landing gear), more drill bits (because you'll potentially be drilling larger holes, ARF's tend to need only small ones).

Put the screwdrivers, one knife, a locking set of pliers (million and one uses), and a good set of allen-head (hex) keys in your field box. Also, I built a caddy for glue and I always keep spare screws, control horns etc in the box. Not a bad idea to keep some 1/4 x 1/2 balsa stock (works great for repairing crash damage @ the field).

Someone else will certainly say you need more. You probably do, I'm certainly forgetting something

As far as your engine goes, if you want to go budget, all you really need is a glo starter (you pick which you want based on price / convenience), fuel and a chicken stick (assuming your engine's ready to go with plug installed). I always keep a glo-plug sized wrench. I have a cheep russian socket set that fits everything and cost me $19 at a hardware store. You'll need something for your prop nut and something that fits your spinner, if you have one. You can go full-blown with electric fuel pump, electric starter, gel-cell start battery, glow driver, field charger, power panel and a fully decked-out box.

NO. Not everyone does this, even the ones with all the money they could want and years in the field. I see plenty of people gravity-siphon filing their tanks, who start with chicken sticks. Have someone experienced show you how to do this. Note, bigger engines often REQUIRE hand starting... Check @ your local field.

Believe it or not you can get out of the hobby shop after spending about $200 with pretty much everything you're going to NEED. Or, you can do what I did and spend $500 and not even get what you wanted. LOL. I've found out through use that I could have left some @ home.

Here are the contents of my field box
note this is from memory so i am positive im forgeting something

first the box:
Black and Decker "Master Cart" Like Billy Hell's in this thread
with Hobbico power panel, sealed 12v battery, electric fuel pump.

Tools:
set of small standard and metric sockets.
*3 phillips screwdrivers (diffrent sizes ranging from small to medium
*3 standard (flat) screwdrivers (matching sizes to the phillips)
*set of metric allen wrenches (i recomend the "ball end" ones that can get be used in tight spots cause sometimes you can't get straight on for some bolts)
*set of standard allen wrenches
*set of pliers (slip joint, regular, and neddlenose)
*adjustable wrench
*Exacto knife
*Glow plug wrench
tweezers

"Field" tools:
12v electric started
*"Chicken Stick" (acually an old broken prop )
*"C" size glow igniter
power panel glow igniter
*Manual Fuel pump

Misc:
*CA Glue (thick and thin)
Screws (anything lying around ... you never know)
Thread Lock
"C" size alkaline batteries (backup for glow igniter,)
Zip Ties
Small Pieces of wood (for minor patches/adjustments)
*Props (various for diffrent planes)
Control horns, hinges, cleveses, servo horns/screw, etc
Extra Fuel line/filters etc.
extra servos, extentions, y adapters.

just about everything here has come in handy at some time at the field. I know this isnt the "primary" needs but it is something to work up to.
(I started with a cardboard box with a glow igniter, 12v batt, starter, manual pump, and a few odd tools)
**I put a * next to the stuff I feel is "needed"**

Also I would recomend buying good quality tools (snap-on, craftsman, etc) because the cheap ones are more prone to breaking or stripping screws/bolts. and stripping something like a engine bolt is a quick way to end your day

I would also recomend getting a box with wheels or a luggage cart to carry your stuff with. even if you dont have alot now evetually it will add up and get heavy..

For field equipment, I would recommend that you get a battery, electric starter, fuel pump, glow plug wrench, glow igniter, and you should be all set

Do you have a local flying field near by? If so, stop by and ask the people who are flying what they have. Plus you get to see some of this stuff in action. People will have different kinds of field boxs, and equipment. Have you decided on a plane yet? Again check with the field you will be flying at as to what type of plane, and radio gear you will need. Most radios are similar in function, but they need to be the same brand as the instructors to use the buddy box function. (for training) Maybe they might even have some stuff they would be willing to sell you or something. Good luck Loren

Questions about field/engine equipment have been answered.

As for building, you have gotten some good suggestions about basic ARF supplies. If you're going to build a kit (something I think everyone should try) I'd like to add some more to the list.

Keep in mind that I've only built 5 kits, so I'm far from a expert. This is what gets me by.

1. Good, sturdy, FLAT table that is long enough comfortably fit either the length of the fuselage, or half of the wing span. More room is better as it will give you places to work while something you just glued is setting up. Most kits require that you build a left and a right wing, then join the halves sometime later. The table must be FLAT. Also make sure that the table is FLAT as well as FLAT. FLAT is something that is very desirable in a building surface. It is also good if it is FLAT. Did I mention FLAT? If it isn't flat you'll end up with warps in your finished product, and a plane that flies as well as your table would.

2. A measuring tape (flexible) with 1/32", and metric graduations.
3. An assortment of very straight edges. I would suggest 3', 18", and 6".
4. 2 "T" bar sanders. A 3', and a small one, maybe 6", and an assortment of rolls of sticky backed sandpaper to use with them.
5. Several sheets of sand paper of various grits, from 180 grit, to 600 grit.
6. An Exacto knife or 2, with lots of spare blades. Dull blades will ruin a good cut every time.
7. Hobby saw. Get a fine tooth and a coarse tooth blade for it. A Miter box is also a pretty good idea. Exacto makes them to fit the hobby saws.
8. A razor plane.
9. Glue. Thin CA, Thick CA, Wood glue, 30min epoxy, and 5min epoxy.
10. "T" pins.
11. Some scrap balsa of various widths, thicknesses and lengths. You can usually buy a bag of scrap balsa with a good variety of sizes at your LHS (Local hobby store).
12. Clamps. Small ones, medium ones, big ones. Not big ones that steel workers would use, or even furniture builders, look at the selection at the LHS and pick out a variety. Get plenty. A good substitute are those black paper binding clips that you see at most offices. Use them wisely, they're usually strong enough to damage or break balsa, but they work great on plywood or hardwood.
13. Tape
14. A covering iron and socks. You can use a regular clothes iron if you don't care about looks, or peeling Monocote, or people laughing at you. Get a heat gun too. The $15 one at the LHS will do. If you already have one that you use for peeling paint you can use that, but only if you don't mind burning holes in your covering, and rebuilding the sections of your plane that you either set on fire or ruined when you had to put out the previously mentioned fire.
15. A good hobby sized square. Also a smaller 90* square that will fit between ribs.
16. All of the previously mentioned hand and power tools.
17. A pin vice.
18. Epoxy mixing cups.
19. Rubber gloves. It is rarely mentioned here, but epoxy on the skin is not only hard to get off, but the chemicals in epoxy will seep right through your skin. They aren't filtered out of you blood stream by your body, and over time they will build up and cause nervous system problems that are not reversible. I'm sure it takes years of regular exposure to cause problems, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

20. I'm sure that most people here have lots of other tools that they use, and they love sharing their knowledge, so by far the most valuable tool for building these wonderful toys is . . . RCU!!!!!

Good luck,
Jet

In adition to the things mentioned, there is one more tool that makes life a lot easier. A Dremel. For cutting, drilling and grinding I can't live without it.

Jet are you trying to imply that you need something flat to work on

I'm in total agreement, you absolutely need a true flat surface to build on. I don't have a workbench, my futon folded down doubles as this function in my home office. I built my last kit ontop of a ceiling tile screwed into a piece of particleboard. Worked well, but after building my model, I noticed that the particle board was starting to warp slightly (using a metal yardstick it was mm at the ends, but even that's bad!). For my next kit, I'm going with ceiling tile clamped onto a piece of 4'x2'x1/2" glass. Can get more flat than that.

Band-aids

I love glass idea. Where did you get it, and how much?

highness: As for your PM about a radio, you'll get as many responses as there are brands of radio. I'm personally partial to JR, but the brand you get will depend on your personal budget. My first radio was a basic 5 channel. 4 flight controls and a switch for landing gear. I quickly out-grew it, and stepped up and got an 8 channel. I try not to regret initially cheaping out and buying a basic 1st radio, but in reality the money was truly a waste. I now use it as a buddy box to take my friends up and try to get them hooked.

Before you get a radio, go to the club that you plan on joining (you are going to join a club, right?) and see what kind of buddy boxes they have. Use that info as the basis for what brand to get.

As for features, get as much functionality as you can afford. I would suggest at least 6 channels, as most of the 6ch out there offer the ability to do at least some programing. Without programing you'll quickly outgrow your radio. As for programing features, you'll need:
1. Mixing
2. dual or tri rates
3. exponential

There are those that don't think that mixing, dual rates etc are necessary. My answer to that is this: neither is beer, but I sure do enjoy it.

Of course the above opinion is mine and mine alone. Anyone that disagrees with my opinion is expressing his or her own opinion and should be congratulated for forming an actual thought.

Jet

Any glass shop will have sheets of large plate glass. The sheets are usually 4'x8'. A local glass company had a piece 4'x2' leftover, they rounded off the sides and sold it to me for $12.

go with jharkin's list ,keep it simple to start with, join a good club ,join the ama,get with a club instructor,I would do that before buying anything, including a plane.