Hey, I've been my superstar EP for about a year or two now and I just purchased my first glow plane: The AVISTAR SELECT RTF. When I first got the engine I broke it in and then had an experienced modeler look at it that has had glow experience for 40+ years. He took the plane up for me on about 3-4 flights and made sure every thing was working ok. Every time we would get it off the ground and a couple hundred feet up the engine would die out(it's the O.S. 40 LA), the tank still would have 1/2 a tank in it, so after that day I brought it home and checked for any problems, I replaced all the fuel line except what is in the tank, but after doing that I noticed a problem with the needle valve- it had a crack in one of the connectors that went to the carburator. I called Tower Hobbies up the same night that I found the problem and they sent me a new needle valve assembly free(that's good customer service) Last night I tookk the engine out and put the new needle valve assembly on and got every thing adjusted, now just earlier tonight I took and tried to start it- it runs just fine up to 1/4 throttle and if I try to give it full throttle, it just dies out imediatlley and also the plane shakes severly (same problem it had in the air before) The needle valve I know is set right so what else could it be- I hope to take it up this thursday during MEA break- but not the way it's running- any response ammediatly is always good-thanks-but if after thursday just keep responding because if the problem isn't solved by thursday I will still work on it over the weekend

What makes you certain that the needle valve is set correctly? It sounds too lean.

Did you mess with the air-bleed screw? Where is the air-bleed set at? Normally when you look in through the bleed hole, the air-bleed needle is half way across the opening.

I would agree with britbrat. It sounds as though the low end needle valve is too lean. There should be info in the directions on how to check if the low end needle valve is set right. Generally you get the engine to sit at idle for a little bit and then pinch the fuel line. If the engine dies immediately it is too lean, if the engines does nothing for a while and then speeds up and then dies it is too rich. If it sits for a second or two end then starts to die you are ok. Get some one with some experiance to check it out for you. Also it may not be broke in all the way. The directions and experiance says that the engine should be broke in after a few three-four tank fulls, but some engines take longer. that might be something else to look at.

I set the new needle valve at the same place as the old one and the low-speed needle valve is at the same settings as it was when another modeler checked it for me.

Try opening the high-speed needle 1/2 turn -- if it still quits (splutters to a stop) it is too rich. If it cuts abruptly, or just dies away without blubbering, it is too lean. If it is lean, & assuming that it is open more than would be normal -- you may have dirt in the needle valve assembly -- remove the needle, clean it off & flush fresh fuel through the needle valve body. Check to ensure that the air-bleed hole is not obstructed with dirt & that you can see the end of the needle ~ 1/2 way across the hole.

Ill try that in acouple hours and report back

stills giving me the problem, but going out tommorow anyways and will have someone look at it.

Check the screws on the back plate for looseness and air leaks. It happened to a friend of mine. After tightening with a little lock-tight it ran well.
Mike

the screws are tight

Thanks for all your guys help, I ended up taking it up this sunday and all I had to was replace the glowplug and it started working.

crasher 2 can you please check your email. I sent you an offer for the chargr and batteries you have. Thanks.