Hi
What is the best way to install pinned hinges without making a mess? I think I would rather use epoxy than CA but I don't want to get it all over the covering. Can someone enlighten me on this?

Thanks

OK. first, i really recommend the great planes hinge slotter and the blade set for nylon/pinned hinges, one of a few specialized tools i really like. there's a technique to using it so if you get one, practice on scrap or ask for advice here.

otherwise, you will need: a small paintbrush (like testor's model paint brush), vaseline, methanol, paper towel cut into small squares, and some scrap balsa strips--about 2" by 3/8" (or else tooth picks), and some pins. I use 30 min epoxy.

sand the gluing surface of the hinges to roughen them up if you are compulsive.
paint the hinge area and hinge pin with vaseline.
mix up epoxy.
apply epoxy to one half of the hinge and put some epoxy into the hinge slot. Use a pin to push the epoxy down into the slot.
push the hinge(s) into their slot(s) but not all the way in yet, leave them out about 1/8".
use a balsa stick or toothpick to remove excess epoxy from the hinge.
now push in the hinge all the way. wipe away any excess epoxy with paper towel dampned with methanol.
do not unnecessarily move the hinges back and forth while the glue is wet or you will work the glue into the hinge joint.
once the glue is dry, move the hinges to free them up.
Now glue the other half of the hinge into the mating surface.

Peter

Or, get some CA hinges, Sig Easy Hinges, and avoid the hassle.

I don't agree with one thing that birdnest recommended. Don't ever put glue on the hinge itself. THe reason being that when you put the hinge in the slot, the glue is pushed into the hinge area.

After the plane is covered and you slit the covering over the slot, run the tip of the iron down the slot to get the covering out of the way. A better way is to use a soldering iron to melt the covering away from the slot.

Stand the control surface so the hinge slots are up and put a bead of epoxy right on the slot. Move to the next slot. By the time you have epoxy on all the slots, you'll see the epoxy has flowed into the first few slots. Put more epoxy over each slot. Do it 3-4 times. Work fast though because even 30 minute epoxy starts getting thick quickly.

Use 30 minute or slower epoxy. And only do one or two surfaces at a time so the epoxy isn't curing before you can get all the hinges in.

Push the hinges in slowly watching for glue squeezing out of the slot. If it does, then use a toothpick or paper towel to wipe it up before pushing the hinge in farther.

Once the hinge is all the way in, DO NOT WIGGLE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wiggling the hinge is a great way to get epoxy worked all through the hinge pin area which is exactly what you don't want.

Let the glue cure. If the hinge is stuck when the glue is cured, give it a good flick with your finger and it will pop loose. Epoxy doesn't actually stick to the plastic that hinges are made from which is why the hinges have holes in them.

By the way, all of this assumes you're using pinned hinges.

Add a little oil or vaseline to the pin area to help keep epoxy out.

A great way to get the epoxy into the slot is to scrape some epoxy into a drinking straw. Flatten the straw end and insert it into the slot. Then squeeze the epoxy in like a toothpaste tube.