Balancing high vs. low wing models?
#1
Thread Starter

I'm finishing up a Lucky Stik (an "ugly stik" clone) and have a question about balancing. I've been told that you should balance a low-wing plane upside down and a high wing plane right-side up. The stik design has the wing "at the shoulder" and the balance point seems different depending on whether I'm balancing right side up or upside down.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
#4
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From: Philadelphia,
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> been told that you should balance a low-wing plane upside down <
There is no such rule. The only matter is in which position the model will be stable when perched on the stand. Models which are hard to keep steady on a stand can be balanced using a sling.
There is no such rule. The only matter is in which position the model will be stable when perched on the stand. Models which are hard to keep steady on a stand can be balanced using a sling.
#5
Thread Starter

Thanks for all the suggestions. I balanced it right-side up and it's almost ready to go (just have to set the throws). I had to add a bit of weight to the nose to get it to balance but other options like a larger engine (for further forward placement thereof), relocating the battery/receiver, heavy prop nuts, etc. just weren't available in this case.
The solution: I found a donut shaped lead weigh at a fishing shop and pounded that flat and put it up against the inside of the firewall. The hole fits perfectly around the fuel tank stopper and fuel lines. If I need to add an oz or two more for a bit more of a nose-heavy heavy effect, I'll stick the usual lead weight squares on the firewall.
BTW, I also found some nice lead tape (about 1/2" wide) that looks like it could be good for a number of modeling uses including fine tuning the balance with small bits of scale detailing.
The solution: I found a donut shaped lead weigh at a fishing shop and pounded that flat and put it up against the inside of the firewall. The hole fits perfectly around the fuel tank stopper and fuel lines. If I need to add an oz or two more for a bit more of a nose-heavy heavy effect, I'll stick the usual lead weight squares on the firewall.
BTW, I also found some nice lead tape (about 1/2" wide) that looks like it could be good for a number of modeling uses including fine tuning the balance with small bits of scale detailing.
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
If you need lead, here's a handy tip:
Go to your neighborhood Gas Station (One that does tire balancing - or go to a Tire Shop)
Every time they balance tires, they remove the old weights, and replace them with new. The old weights are thrown into a bucket until they are disposed of. Just stop in and ask for a handfull (or two). They are going to throw these away anyway, so they don't care if you want some.
Melt them down with a torch on an old cookie sheet, or frying pan (available at flea markets)
They are even marked with their weight - need 12oz? Melt down two 6's - or a 6, a 4, and a 2
Works great, and they're FREE!
Go to your neighborhood Gas Station (One that does tire balancing - or go to a Tire Shop)
Every time they balance tires, they remove the old weights, and replace them with new. The old weights are thrown into a bucket until they are disposed of. Just stop in and ask for a handfull (or two). They are going to throw these away anyway, so they don't care if you want some.
Melt them down with a torch on an old cookie sheet, or frying pan (available at flea markets)
They are even marked with their weight - need 12oz? Melt down two 6's - or a 6, a 4, and a 2
Works great, and they're FREE!
#7
Yep, the tire weights work well. I am into my 3d bucket now! I haven't bothered melting them down. I also cut off smaller pieces from the long ones to use in the wings for lateral balancing. I glue them in with canopy glue because it is vibration resistant. [8D]



