Here are some pictures wich will clearefy my problems:

1) the Aileron problem: example:
When I move my aileron stick on my transmitter to the right, the tip of the left wing will go down 1cm. and the tip of the right wing will go up 1cm.
But, when I move my aileron stick to the left, the tip of the left wing will only go up 0,5cm. and the tip of the right wing will only go down 0,5cm.
so, tis would mean that my plane would rotate faster when going clockwise and slower when rotating counter-clockwise !!!

I am not sure or this could be the problem, but here is a picture of how the servo and servo-arms are hooked up to the bottom of the wing:



This is a picture when the stick is centered. As you can see, the servo-arm is completly horizontal. But, the arms connected to the ailerons are not at the same place. However, the ailerons are both horizontal right now. so don't think that there is a difference when I took this picture.

2) The Fuel problem: When I ran in my plane, There was a lot of fuel or oil (don't know) comming from the muffler. I didn't change the needle of the engine, caus my supplier told me to run in the engine and fly it with factory settings.
Here is the result:



this is the left wing, ... no fuel there, but:



This is the top of the right wing [&:]



Lot's of fuel [:'(]



It even went all the way to the tip of the right wing



The muffler deflector was pointing up, but still, there was A LOT OF FUEL comming out !!!



OMG, this was the bottom of the right wing after 40 minutes running in !!!


Side question: What should be the perfect needle setting, now that the engine is completly run in ? and how do I set it to that specific setting ? (example: rotate it all the way counter-clockwise till you can't anymore and then 1 1/2-turn clockwise, ... or something like this ?)

3) Plumping: I fitted a fuel filter and a T-splitter between the engine and the fuel tank, resulting in the fuel line now making a loop ...



Follow the red line from fuel tank to the arrow, ... that's how the fuel is going to the engine.
Question: Is this a bad set-up ?, because the fuel line makes a big loop with a top well above the engine.

4) What are the minimum requirements for a flying field ? how many m², short grass, trees, ... (why am I asking this, caus I don't got my permanent drivers license yet, so going to a flying field every week is not an option)


hope you guys can help me out

thx,
Prophex

PS: I intend to call an experienced pilot one of these days ... so don't come with that solution ...

Where to start?

Ailerons - Assuming that in the picture, both ailerons themselves are at zero displacement from neutral, your aileron problem is caused by misaligned aileron torque rods.

Somehow, the aileron torque rods supplied with that ARF have become been bent unequally out of intended alignment, or one of them mistakenly glued in in reverse orientation. You MUST fix them before you attempt to fly that model. Hopefully MinnFlyer will be along presently with one of his superb diagramatic illustrations, but in the interim I'll try and explain what you need to do.

What you require is end up with is both aileron torque rods equally displaced at a slight angle aft of a right angle to the wing surface, and in alignment with each other when looking from the side. To effect this;

1. Disconnect the aileron control arms and linkages from the aileron horns connected to the ailero torque rods, and remove the servo arm placing the entire assembly aside.
2. Looking at the bottom of the wing as presented in your supplied picture, whilst supporting the aileron and keeping it in the neutral position, bend the torque rod on the right in that picture back so that it matches the angular displacement of the one on the left in the picture. This should have been done before glueing them in place, so be careful with the pressure you exert taking it slowly a little at a time as you proceed with this so as not to tear the torque rod out of the wing or crush/splinter the ply/balsa in which it is anchored.

Once you have achieved this, refit the servo horn and adjust the linkage assembly on the right so that the aileron torque rods are sill in alignment slightly aft of perpendicular to the wing surface when both ailerons are at neutral. What you want to end up with is both ailerons in neutral and both torque rod arms aligned. Once you have achieved this as described, you shoudl have equal aileron throws of both left and right ailerons respectively, with correct aileron differential mechanically built iin. ie: The upgoing aileron deflections will be angularly less than the downgoing aileron deflections. This is as it should be.

Exhaust mess - That's burnt oil, which looking from the colour of it appears to be castor. Is it particularly cold and moist over there right now? Just the individual coagulative beading of it on the wing just looks unusual. I suggest you rotate the O.S. P-Box muffler outlet and silicon exhaust extension directly downwards and outwards at a slight angle to minimise the residue striking either the wing or fuselage. You won't stop all eflux strikig the plane, but you will avoid most of it.

Running-in - Your O.S. 46 AX is an ABC engine. You've probably been four stroking it from the look of that oil, and almost certainly if you haven't altered the high end N/V setting. Hasn't helped a lot with running in the engine, but it has made a mess, lots of noise and burnt a bit of fuel. You don't need to run in that engine on the bench now.

Find someone to assist you to learn to fly, and when you run the engine in the plane next, just tune it to a rich two stroke (h/s needle about 1½ turns open). If you don't know what a rich two stroke is and can't discriminate it, get shown by someone who does and can. If all else fails, I'd suggest RTM, but the O.S. one size fits all including the 50SX ring manual supplied is arguably 'best practice' erroneous in its recommendations for running in ABL tapered piston engines.

Fuel tank plumbing - If you've set it up as per the manual, then you have a dual vent system with a T piece presumably in the muffler to vent line and a filter somewhere between the tank and carb inlet. Short tubing runs are preferable, but it really doesn't matter as long as you haven't got any kinks restricting flow anywhere. If you're not getting any air bubbles in the feed line or fuel feed problems presenting, just leave it alone for now. Unless you've done your own 'thang' 'n set up a single vent system, I can't see why you'd want or place a T piece in the feed line?

If that all sounds Japanese to you, go to SIG's site and read their dual and single vent tanks plumbing setups in their 'all about R/C booklet' (which I think they have online?) or buy Harry Higley's "Getting Started in R/C", Vols I & II in which you'll find answers to all your questions and be a wise investment in your case.

Your "minimum requirements" are find a club in your local area and ask. It's not difficult. Your LHS should be able to assist, and if you can use a telphone, then you're in business.