ARC Ready 2 Trainer
#1
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
I have bought and nearly finished building my ARC Ready 2 Trainer and i have a problem. the next stage is to install the fuel tank and the instructions state "follow the fuel tank instructions" but i never received any. Could someone give me some advice as to how to install the small copper pipes and how to operate or even better, a copy of the instructions.
Fingers Crossed
Lexus[
]
Fingers Crossed
Lexus[
]
#2
Senior Member
Lexus - the copper pipe just goes through the rubber stopper, its not hard to do, just use something sharp to puncture it. One warning, DO NOT have the copper pipes out too much as it will cut the tubing, also when you are about to install the tubing to the engine ensure that the tubing is not too long, if it is (bending) then the tubing is prone to getting cut. Its a very nice trainer ... really nice.
#3
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
tIANci,
hi and thanks for answering my question.
i still have a few questions to ask.
1.) my fuel tank has 3 pipes but only 2 holes in the rubber seal why is this and how install 3?
2.) I plan to use a fuel pump to fill and empty the tank how do i have to configure the copper pipes?
Thank
Lexus
hi and thanks for answering my question.
i still have a few questions to ask.
1.) my fuel tank has 3 pipes but only 2 holes in the rubber seal why is this and how install 3?
2.) I plan to use a fuel pump to fill and empty the tank how do i have to configure the copper pipes?
Thank
Lexus
#4
Senior Member
Lexus - if I am not mistaken look at the back of the stopper, you will see 3 holes. DO NOT bother to use a 3rd line for fueling up, the engine carb nipple is exposed, use that to fill and empty, its easy. Third line will NEVER empty your tank completely so if you transport the plane with the nose down or tip the plane nose down it is prone to drenching your carpet etc. I have stopped using a 3rd filling line even for my planes with a full cowling, I use a refueling valve as this is even better, your engine will not flood as you fill up.
As for the pipe configuration keep it like this ... one higher and one lower. Higher one will be for muffler pressure ... the copper pipe inside the tank is bent slightly upwards so that the tank can be filled to its brim. Lower one is for fuel to the carb. Make sure the clunk does not get caught inside and can flip and flop freely.
Have fun attaching the darn wheel steering links ... that is really a crappy thing to do. Please ensure you do a lot of dry fitting first, all the pictures are to be fully noted ... it is easy to make mistakes! The Italian instructions are not that good. Anyways, I built one for my pal using CA (80% of the construction).
I hope you have small hands!!!
As for the pipe configuration keep it like this ... one higher and one lower. Higher one will be for muffler pressure ... the copper pipe inside the tank is bent slightly upwards so that the tank can be filled to its brim. Lower one is for fuel to the carb. Make sure the clunk does not get caught inside and can flip and flop freely.
Have fun attaching the darn wheel steering links ... that is really a crappy thing to do. Please ensure you do a lot of dry fitting first, all the pictures are to be fully noted ... it is easy to make mistakes! The Italian instructions are not that good. Anyways, I built one for my pal using CA (80% of the construction).
I hope you have small hands!!!
#5
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From: Liverpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Lexus, I have a Ready 2 and I have 1 piece of advice for you: Ditch the mains before they snap (They will believe me). I use an Alu set and mounted them.
I will try to get some pictures, but here is how I done it.
The Alu mains had 3 locating holes pre drilled, so I lined up the middle hole as the rear most and using it as a template drilled the central hole as close to the FRONT of the middle fuze former allowing for the washer dia.
Hand tighten a nut and bolt in the mains and fuze just to hold it there while you drill the other 2 holes.
Once the holes are drilled and everything is square you will need the following items: 3x 5mm nuts and bolts, 3x small ID large OD washers, B&Q sell them (repair washers). Glass cloth and epoxy.
Lay some epoxy in the fuze area where the 3 holes are and the area around them, then cut a piece of glass cloth to size and lay it in the glue. Mate the Mians to the fuze and push the bolts through. On the inside form the cloth around the protuding bolts. Place the washers over the bolts and then lay another piece of cloth and epoxy. Tighten the nuts to the bolts, the fuze will deform slightly, don't worry. Once the nuts are tight lay another piece of cloth and epoxy over the area. Put the kettle on have a cuppa or 2 and wait over night for the epoxy to set. This set up has lasted for well over 6 months now with no cracks in the fuze or signs of any weakness, my landings are not always pefect and it has stood up to numerious cartwheels down the runway and some very heavy landings. The nose wheel is one of the best around, I has never bent.
I will try to get some pictures, but here is how I done it.
The Alu mains had 3 locating holes pre drilled, so I lined up the middle hole as the rear most and using it as a template drilled the central hole as close to the FRONT of the middle fuze former allowing for the washer dia.
Hand tighten a nut and bolt in the mains and fuze just to hold it there while you drill the other 2 holes.
Once the holes are drilled and everything is square you will need the following items: 3x 5mm nuts and bolts, 3x small ID large OD washers, B&Q sell them (repair washers). Glass cloth and epoxy.
Lay some epoxy in the fuze area where the 3 holes are and the area around them, then cut a piece of glass cloth to size and lay it in the glue. Mate the Mians to the fuze and push the bolts through. On the inside form the cloth around the protuding bolts. Place the washers over the bolts and then lay another piece of cloth and epoxy. Tighten the nuts to the bolts, the fuze will deform slightly, don't worry. Once the nuts are tight lay another piece of cloth and epoxy over the area. Put the kettle on have a cuppa or 2 and wait over night for the epoxy to set. This set up has lasted for well over 6 months now with no cracks in the fuze or signs of any weakness, my landings are not always pefect and it has stood up to numerious cartwheels down the runway and some very heavy landings. The nose wheel is one of the best around, I has never bent.
#7
I have the Beaver and here's how I put an aluminium gear on after I broke the stock plastic gear.
My plane is heavy with a big fourstroke and a 1500mah battery and this mounting technique has worked well for many landings.
Just ask if you need any help or instructions, but I think the pictures explain it quite good.
Those are 4mm bolts and lock nuts. The wood is plywood.
My plane is heavy with a big fourstroke and a 1500mah battery and this mounting technique has worked well for many landings.
Just ask if you need any help or instructions, but I think the pictures explain it quite good.
Those are 4mm bolts and lock nuts. The wood is plywood.
#8
Senior Member
There is no need for alu gear to be honest, we have 3 flying in our field and one is with a beginner who has been learning to land, his landings are fast and hard and bumpy. No UC failure.



