Receiver Battery need foam?
#1
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From: Miami, FL
I'm just getting back into the hobby after about 10 years and a couple of kids. I'm building a Piper Cub and need to locate the receiver battery as far to the rear as possible due to being a little nose heavy. The location I'd like to put it won't allow the battery to be wrapped in foam. Does the receiver battery absolutely need to be wrapped in foam?? I was gonna use quality velcro to secure the battery. It will certainly be secure. A crash that would dislodge it would be fatal to the plane anyway. My question is about the vibration factor. Does a quality velcro (thich fuzzy side) provide the vibration protection needed or for that matter does the battery need vibration protection at all? [sm=confused.gif]
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
Yes, all electronic components need to be isolated from the airframe.
The low frequency vibrations are OK, the high frequency ones will kill solder joints, components and cause fuel to foam.
The low frequency vibrations are OK, the high frequency ones will kill solder joints, components and cause fuel to foam.
#3
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From: Miami, FL
I would think a battery wrapped in foam and strapped tightly to the airframe with a rubber band would get as much vibration as a battery "floating" on velcro.
How-a-bout if I double-face tape 1/4 inch foam in the needed location and then go with the velcro? My biggest issue is the inability to be able to strap the pack down with rubber bands.
How-a-bout if I double-face tape 1/4 inch foam in the needed location and then go with the velcro? My biggest issue is the inability to be able to strap the pack down with rubber bands.
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From: Jacksonville, IL
Can you use the velcro straps sold at office supply stores? They are often used on foamies to secure batteries. Mount the strap(s), wrap the battery with foam, use the straps to secure it to the airframe.
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From: Philadelphia,
PA
As I build smaller models it is sometimes difficult to fit components in. So for receivers I use thinner foam than the usual 1/4" stuff. I substitute the foam insoles sold in drugstores which is about 1/8" thick.
#6
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I've got to agree with what Geistware said. Vibration is a killer. When it comes to batteries that translates to solder joints failing. I wouldn't risk it, considering how easy it is to prevent it. If you're cramped on space there is a trick I've used before. Get a computer mouse pad. They give quite a bit of protection without taking a lot of room.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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From: Corona, CA
I substitute the foam insoles sold in drugstores which is about 1/8" thick.
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From: Miami, FL
I was able to reposition the battery in a easier to reach location. Still, a little farther forward than I would've preferred. Never knew CA worked on foam. Made a nice tidy tube with 1/4" foam, slid the battery in it and strapped it down with one of those velcro thing-a-ma-jigs DZLSTUNTER recommended. Made a nice tidy job of it and no rubber bands. CG is a little nose heavy for what the manual says but I can always add some weight aft if necessary. Thanks for the ideas.
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From: Kennesaw,
GA
Get a box wrapping foam at office depot. It is very thin and you can wrap it as much or as little as you want, getting the tightest allowable fit. It is used for wraping dishes and such. It is all I use. That thick stuff sold for RC is no better, just more expensive and harder to work with.
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
I have seen a couple of velcro types. If you use the stuff that is like wool on one side, then it should be OK. It will allow high frequencies to be absorbed but low frequencies will pass (but no harm should be done) the other velcro makes a tight bond to the surface. It uses little splines that interconnect to hold the two halves together. I would not use this type.



