How can I bend this piece of balsa?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Kennewick,
WA
I'm modifying another Mach II and am trying to put on a rounded deck. Well, the top isn't totally flat, and on the two curved parts there is some balsa that I'm trying to figure out how to bend and glue in place.
I've heard about misting with water or alcohol. how will this affect the CA?
Would that work?
I was also thinking about cutting out a little slice, like a piece of pie, to remove the extra bit of wood. Then bending it down and CAing it.
It's a piece of 1/16 balsa supported and glued in the middle down the length of the fuse, and glued to some planed down angle stock on the sides.
Any ideas??
I've heard about misting with water or alcohol. how will this affect the CA?
Would that work?
I was also thinking about cutting out a little slice, like a piece of pie, to remove the extra bit of wood. Then bending it down and CAing it.
It's a piece of 1/16 balsa supported and glued in the middle down the length of the fuse, and glued to some planed down angle stock on the sides.
Any ideas??
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: salisbury,
MA
i use hot water on both sides of the balsa but don't drown the wood and then i make sure it's pliable then i lightly give it a contour to its' shape by hand and then put it on the area of the plane and put rubber bands around the area it's going to so that it keep its' shape. I have it so the rubber bands are spaced about one inch from each other, that way the balsa will take shape, also i make sure there is no twist in the rubber bands so they don't mark up the balsa.
Just make sure you use a rubber band that won't be too tight but tight enough to make sure it will take the shape you want.
I make the piece of balsa slighly larger than what is needed then wet it put rubber bands around it then let it dry.
Once it's dry and close to the shape i want it i trim it some more to where it's exact and if needed i'll do the wetting process with rubber bands one more time.
Once it's dry then use whatever glue you are used too.
Just make sure you use a rubber band that won't be too tight but tight enough to make sure it will take the shape you want.
I make the piece of balsa slighly larger than what is needed then wet it put rubber bands around it then let it dry.
Once it's dry and close to the shape i want it i trim it some more to where it's exact and if needed i'll do the wetting process with rubber bands one more time.
Once it's dry then use whatever glue you are used too.
#3
I myself use a mixture of half water, half ammonia... Just dampen the wood with it and it will curve right into place... Once it's in place I just hit it with a little thin CA and viola...
#4

The water/ ammonia system also works great for me, just be carefull using the Ammonia.. Water and alcohol also works but I don't think quite as well. If you use CA while the wood is wet with either mix it will cause the CA to set right now but you won't have a good glue joint. The mix acts like quick set. Form the wood and let it dry before glueing.
#5
Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Aurora,
OH
Are you talking about the World Models Mach II (Sky Raider)?
If so, I would add rounded formers to the top. Otherwise, the round turtle deck will not have anything to glue to due to the fact that the top of it is flat (the turtle deck area). If you don't do this, the rounded turtle deck will flatten out as it dries (using the before mentioned methods).
It shouldn't be hard to add, just cut some small formers, sort of a half circle, the width of the fuselage, and glue into place.
Are you going to modify the canopy? The original canopy may not look right with a turtle deck...
Jeff
If so, I would add rounded formers to the top. Otherwise, the round turtle deck will not have anything to glue to due to the fact that the top of it is flat (the turtle deck area). If you don't do this, the rounded turtle deck will flatten out as it dries (using the before mentioned methods).
It shouldn't be hard to add, just cut some small formers, sort of a half circle, the width of the fuselage, and glue into place.
Are you going to modify the canopy? The original canopy may not look right with a turtle deck...
Jeff
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Kennewick,
WA
Thanks for the help.
Yes it is a Skyraider Mach II. I've got the deck well supported, and will be using a different canopy.
My first Mach II, I modified into my "Mach III".
This one, I'm going to make into my "Machstang".
I'm almost finished with the rounded wing tips, I'll also be adding a scoop, the extra wing parts at the root(Have no idea what there called, wing fillets or something), and slightly modifying the tail feathers.
I just need to figure something out with the gear. I'd like to do retracts, but probably can't with the wing and retract placement with the CG. I think I'd have a lot of nose over's.
Here's the Mach III
Yes it is a Skyraider Mach II. I've got the deck well supported, and will be using a different canopy.
My first Mach II, I modified into my "Mach III".
This one, I'm going to make into my "Machstang".
I'm almost finished with the rounded wing tips, I'll also be adding a scoop, the extra wing parts at the root(Have no idea what there called, wing fillets or something), and slightly modifying the tail feathers.
I just need to figure something out with the gear. I'd like to do retracts, but probably can't with the wing and retract placement with the CG. I think I'd have a lot of nose over's.
Here's the Mach III
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Chesapeake,
VA
i might get yelled at for this one...it may be harmfull to the wood but i havent seen any adverse effects....
i take and get 2 paper towels wet, and stick the wood between them...and put it in the microwave for small peices, or the oven for big peices, either way not too long....15 seconds in the microwave and a minute maybe in the oven....it makes the wood extremely bendable while its warm, and when it cools, it holds its shape and is the same.....err...bendability (cant think of the word) as it had before, so its still as strong....
i take and get 2 paper towels wet, and stick the wood between them...and put it in the microwave for small peices, or the oven for big peices, either way not too long....15 seconds in the microwave and a minute maybe in the oven....it makes the wood extremely bendable while its warm, and when it cools, it holds its shape and is the same.....err...bendability (cant think of the word) as it had before, so its still as strong....
#9
Senior Member
'Steaming' is the correct way to bend and shape thin wood like balsa sheets. We do that when constructing acoustic guitars, especially the sides. Wood is made damp then shaped slowly over a heated curved metal, then placed into a mold for the final shape.
#11
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Saint Peters ,
MO
I use rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle because it dries quickly. Also the other posters are correct about water making CA set immediately, the good news is that a spray bottle full of water, except for being messy works as well as kicker. CA glues "dry" in the absence of oxygen so anything that displaces air will cause it set immediately THis is why oddly enough, blowing cigarette smoke onto a glue joint will also work.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Taipei, TAIWAN
i agree with bigtim, some ammonia (windex) and wrap around a can or something. if you want it to be conical, get two cans one bigger and rubber band around for the shape. works great. you can spray a little more on right before installation.




